Re: Jamo A-101 Sub Amp

Thanks for the advice... Amazing how this shows up in a pic!... I examined the board carefully under a Maggy Lamp both before and after sending the pics and these defects weren't visible... After looking at the pic I was stunned at how easily the fractures could be seen!

Long story short, Reflowed every through hole joint on the board and all is well... I guess fractured solder joints are to be expected when you place a board with big heavy components in an environment that's designed specifically to vibrate intensly at low frequencies!...

Re: Jamo A-101 Sub Amp

O.K. Pix attached. Have cleaned off all the glue and done some further testing. I have replaced 2 suspect caps (the large brown 680uF 80V caps at the bottom right in the component side picture. The cap nearest the edge of the board was running quite hot after only a minute or so and I figured new ones couldn't hurt. Problem is that the same fault still exists... Outside cap runs very hot even with no input audio. The original noise and popping seem to be reduced but I dare not run the amp under load with the cap running hot.

Ideas anyone?...

Hi Guys!

Can anyone assist with a schematic / service manual for the Jamo A-101 Sub Amplifier? I've had an issue in the past where the "glue" used to stabilise the larger components on the board has been "cooked" and carbonised causing shorts. Repaired that no problem but now (12 months later) I'm getting really poor and distorted output plus random noise and Pops. I've had a basic look around for a repeat of the "Black Glue" incident but to no avail. Circuit Diagram would save me a lot of time.

Cheers
Greg.

Re: PANASONIC TH-L19X10AK LCD - will not start.

Gents,
Replace Q7801, Q7802 , and most importantly C7801. The Cap should be replaced with a a hi temp, hi frequency equivalent. The Cap will look OK and may measure the correct capacitence but I'll bet if you measure it's ESR it will read high.

Cheers
Greg.