Re: My very first Rework flux by KINGBO Japan
And therein lies (but one of) the problem(s) with Kingbo. There is no (genuine) manufacturer/website/point of contact. (IMHO) the product 'flies under the radar' due to the (unknown/unregulated) chemicals that it contains, which many countries would not allow to be produced within their borders (for safety reasons). Hence the reason that it is manufactured by a 'mystery' company, labeled with the claim of being produced in Japan (to give a false sense of security, quality) and sold so cheaply.
I use the product myself...
WiseOldTroll
New Member
Last Activity: 08-31-2016, 07:14 PM
Joined: 05-18-2014
Location: Appleton, WI
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Re: My very first Rework flux by KINGBO Japan
The problem with CHINA is that they counterfeit EVERYTHING, and there are few (if any) quality standards or protections for the people making the products and/or those who use/consume them.
Add to this the consumer mentality that cheaper is most desirable.
I'm a firm believer in Gucci's adage (slightly modified):
"The bitterness of poor quality if remembered LONG after the sweetness of low price, is forgotten".Leave a comment:
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Part 5:
The nudge test will be your best friend here too. No matter what your thermocouples say, unless the solder has melted under the chip, you have not reached 217 (lead free) or 183 (leaded) under the chip.
The nudge should be more of a slight/push down on the chip to see if the solder is melting/melted. After you see movement, give it another few seconds (6, 8 , no more than 10) before you move your nozzle out of the way and pick the chip with the vacuum pen.
With a great deal of practice, you will be able to tell by the sound/feel when the solder... -
Part 4:
the temperature of the griddle.
I would STRONGLY advise that you just abandon the griddle if you have the funds to purchase a proper lower heater (the T8280 is not a premium device, but at 1600 watts, it is much better than the griddle, especially if you can pick one up for $100).
Even with a holding device, you need to have a proper nozzle to match the size of the chip that your are heating as well. The nozzle needs to be placed fairly close to the chip so the hot air completely saturates the chip (you will have to find a sweet-spot for your... -
Part 3:
and you will have to rethread it before you can operate the griddle again.
The controller holds contact points together until the set temp is reached, and then a bi-metal in the temp probe causes the contacts to open/current flow to be cutoff to the heating elements.
My advice is to abandon the griddle if you have ANY doubts about your ability to successfully modify/operate it safely, as there is a significant amount of risk involved if you don't pay VERY close attention to the griddle as you operate it/after you modify it.
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Part 2:
IF, IF, IF you do this, you take ALL responsibility and ALL risk, but.. you can disassemble the controller, locate the stop tab, and bend it so that it no longer stops at 400, but goes past that. You NEVER want to go more than 500 degrees, and you will have to guesstimate that.
I put a scribe mark on mine, and I start out by setting the griddle to the max (400) letting the motherboard temp stabilize at the max it will reach at that setting, and then take the temp up another 50 degrees (compare the scale and turn the knob up the same amount). I let it stabilize... -
Hey.. this will be in chunks, due to the 1000 char limit.
Part 1
Hey...
We all have to start somewhere, and you can gain valuable knowledge with what (equipment) you have, just don't set your expectations too high.
I have several thousands of $ invested in equipment, but I started out using equipment very similar to what you are using. (as a matter of fact, I still have it, and use it on occasion for smaller boards, salvaging chips from scrap boards, etc.).
You CAN modify that Presto griddle to get more heat out of it..... -
Re: BGA Reballing Help Needed Please All Pro's Come
Your bottom heat needs to do more of the work. You should hit at least 150c on the top of the motherboard (measured with quality/accurate thermocouples/meters (Omega/Omega, or Omega/Fluke).
If you are not high enough on the bottom (120 vs. 150, or even as high as 170 for lead-free) you will have to go even higher on the top in order to get the heat through the chip, to the bottom of the chip/to the spheres in order to melt the solder. (Again, your bottom heat should do most of the work (75-80% of the melting point...Last edited by WiseOldTroll; 10-24-2014, 01:23 AM.Leave a comment:
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Re: Trying my hand and BGA re-balling and I can't get the balls to stay put.
In all probability, Insat is just rebottled Superior brand flux. (I know more about this than I can mention here). Superior has been around for ages and flux is all they do, so they are good at it, and if Insat is indeed rebottled Superior brand it is still a good product. The product itself has gotten positive reviews for many who use it/reball, hence the reason that I mentioned it. It IS pricey, and if one is based in the US, I would recommend Superior 99-2 as much as Insat, especially from a cost stand...Last edited by WiseOldTroll; 10-23-2014, 04:19 PM.Leave a comment:
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Re: Trying my hand and BGA re-balling and I can't get the balls to stay put.
Reballing takes a great deal of patience, attention to detail, and practice. As you practice/learn, you will develop methods that will make it easier for you.
(I've made some assumptions in my reply/below).
-- I assume that your solder balls/spheres are of good quality, NOT expired, and are NOT the issue. (Of course, it's entirely possible that you may need to try a different bottle/brand)
-- I assume that you are using the proper size balls for your stencil and the package?...Last edited by WiseOldTroll; 10-23-2014, 03:38 PM.Leave a comment:
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Re: New Members - please post your introductions here
Ok.... to be completely honest, I'm only leaving this post to open up my access to the user CP.. and...
I (kinda) feel like I'm standing on the podium at AA, (mandatorily) introducing myself to those who share my addiction
So, Hello, Fellow Junkies !!
I'm an old fart, who grew up watching/helping my father repair TV's/electronics. I've been 'into' electronics and computers since the very early days (before Microslut even) and among some of my first "PC's" were the Commodore...Leave a comment:
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