Re: Samsung LE40B530P7W won't power up - Red LED flashes 5 times
Sorry to jump in i am having a prob like this, my model is diff but sounds very much like my prob it turns on with remote music plays backlight lights up with picture back light stays on most times for a minute but have had 15 mins till tv shuts its self down as normal but most of the time just a min, i have checked the voltage pins all voltages are correct but when backlight goes off the 5.1 volts at 5volts DET DROPS to zero can see picture with torch, i have replaced all caps on low voltage side oh forgot led flashes...
davidvincent
David Vincent
Last Activity: 08-27-2017, 12:59 PM
Joined: 01-16-2014
Location: Wigan
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Re: Solder Gap
Thanks Budum
always great info on here
DVLeave a comment:
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Re: Solder Gap
mariushm
Thank you so much for this info so now I know that the joint is part of the copper trace with solder on, I have done a few lcd power supplies (replace electrolytic caps) but never come across this sort of thing before, my knowledge is much greater thanks to you
regards
DVLeave a comment:
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Re: Solder Gap
its looking like its just green paint that came off due to heat desoldering and the solder joint is part of the big rail, if so what a stupid way to lay out a circuit board a mate is calling to give me his opinion as the last thing I want is the board going BOOM
dvLast edited by davidvincent; 09-26-2014, 02:27 AM.Leave a comment:
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Re: Solder Gap
I have just ran a pin across the surface and the green stuff is on top of the metal so could it be that it is green paint around the solder joint and it came off during de soldering and the solder joint is part of the big track, seems a bloody stupid way to make a board, I have put my meter over on the primary side it has the same set up were the big tracks don't seem to connect to anything and I get continuity between every solder joint that's right next to it and the wide track, god I wish I cold find a circuit diagram for this board
DVLast edited by davidvincent; 09-25-2014, 03:36 AM.Leave a comment:
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Re: Solder Gap
Another pic...Leave a comment:
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Re: Solder Gap
Hi I have tried to upload a picture with a circle on but it wont upload
if you look at the board in the middle there is a big wide track that looks like a big number 7 at the top of the seven along its top there are two solder joints with a very fine divider between joint and track the joint solder has run into the wide track I have solder wicked it but there now seems to be no small green divider
I will try again to upload a picture
bingo pic was too big
DV...Last edited by davidvincent; 09-25-2014, 01:54 AM.Leave a comment:
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Solder Gap
Hi this might sound stupid in the link below is a jpeg of a power suppy that I am installing new electrolytic caps my question is if you look at the main tracks there is a very small gap between the wide tracks and the solder joints while desoldering the gap has closed on two of them and even with solder wick I cant get the gap back do the joints connect to the main tracks as I don't see why they are so close
thanks D V
[url]https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=74884&d=1385209875[/url]Hi this might sound stupid in the link below isLast edited by davidvincent; 09-24-2014, 04:13 PM. -
Re: bad capacitor
Yes just spoke to my friend and he's gone for the replace the caps option
best I think in the long run.
Again thanks for all the help and I hope this thread helps anyone else that has this power boardLeave a comment:
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Re: bad capacitor
BINGO tv working perfect
It was the Samxon 100uf 25v Electrolytic cap it looked quite normal no bulging I went to Maplins and got an ordinary 100uf 35v cap and soldered in temp to test it must have been causing the buzzing on sound as well as that has now gone
So all Esr Saxmon caps need to be replaced
Thanks to everyone for steering me away from the 400 v cap
DV
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Re: bad capacitor
Yes Agreed the low voltage side is full of them I changed 2 of the samxon start up caps they had blown their tops well on their way anyway.
I am going to change out the 100uf first and if I get the tv working ok I will give the option to my friend (its his tv) to do a full cap change to rubycon capsLeave a comment:
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Re: bad capacitor
Hi after looking at it again and taking into account all that you guys have said I am now of the belief that the 400v cap is not at fault.
I have really isolated the 400v well using cardboard and plastic and blew warm air above it and the tv started to work, so above it is a diode (that is ok) and a ceramic cap so I put a tube on the ceramic cap and blew warm air the tv did not change.
So above the Ceramic cap there is another diode that seems ok. two small transistor's 1 big transistor TIP31C and 4 very suspect small electrolytic...Last edited by davidvincent; 09-19-2014, 05:46 AM.Leave a comment:
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Re: bad capacitor
ok I will get back once I have the replacement I will order one off ebay
thanks for your help
DVLeave a comment:
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Re: bad capacitor
I just done another test on the cap
Cold no power ie not plugged in 0 volts
Plugged in not switched on 350 volts
Turned on screen flashing 340 volts
Use hairdryer on Cap until screen stops flashing (steady backlight) 325 voltsLast edited by davidvincent; 09-18-2014, 01:55 PM.Leave a comment:
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Re: bad capacitor
the cap goes down to nothing within a few mins when not plugged inLeave a comment:
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Re: bad capacitor
around 330 -340 volts at my latest testLeave a comment:
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Re: bad capacitor
You can see the components near the Cap from this photo...Leave a comment:
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Re: bad capacitor
I will upload a pictureLeave a comment:
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Re: bad capacitor
Would this make any differenceLeave a comment:
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Re: bad capacitor
Hi thanks for your response
the cap looks fine, the psu is AD301M24-4N1
There is a thread on here were he had the same fault and heated the cap up and it worked he replaced the cap and it was the same, now like I posted I used some plastic and surrounded the cap and heated it up and bingo I had it on for 2 hours then switch it off for 5 mins and to get it back on you have to heat it up again
regards
DavidLeave a comment:
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