Re: The Good Capacitors Photo Thread
very useful to me! thanks for your sharing !!
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Re: The Good Capacitors Photo Thread
Originally posted by yanz View PostPanasonic FJ Capacitor
For more than a year we had been questioning about its data specification. We see them in a lot of modern motherboards (even cheap board like ECS) and vga card (especially powercolor). Thanks to Willawake, he found the FJ datasheet that Panasonic it self hide it for no reason.
It turns out that this caps is for real, from Panasonic, and many motherboards/vga card manufacturers use it because it is comparable to: Chemicon KZG (good cap), Rubycon MBZ (good cap), Nichicon HM (it's badcaps in past time).
So if you found this FJ cap on a motherboard or vga card you want to choose, fear not, they are good caps.
Datasheet:
Panasonic FJ Capacitor
Made in Malaysia
Another thread about FJ capacitor you'll find on this badcaps forum:
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=1801
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=720
So, performance grade of panasonic alumunium electrolytic capacitor series (lower to greater):
FC -> FK -> FJ -> FM
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Re: The Good Capacitors Photo Thread
nice to know info!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Re: The Good Capacitors Photo Thread
There are loads of types of ceramic capacitors... and there's several temperature ratings for such resistors, X5R, X7R and C0G/NPO being some of the best. NPO is actually above x5r and x7r as it's not as sensitive to vibrations (piezoelectric effect).
But these ratings are loosely defined... a x5r build with some specific components by a manufacturer could have the same performance as a capacitor rated as X7R by another company.. you can't be 100% sure.
Or, for example, a 2.2uF X5R in 0805 package may have the same performance as a 2.2uF X7R in 0402 or 0603 package (or footprint, whatever).
It's just safe to not go lower than X5R.
Read this article for some info about how ceramic capacitors are affected by voltage and temperature : http://www.maximintegrated.com/app-n...ex.mvp/id/5527
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Re: The Good Capacitors Photo Thread
As for SMD ceramics, the best is X7R electrolyte, I think it does not really depend from which manufacturer but maybe somebody will correct me.
As for radial ceramics, not really sure, I usually buy whatever they sell me in shop if I need something and don't have it "on stock" digged from already dead and dismounted HW.
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Re: The Good Capacitors Photo Thread
Can anyone give light onto good Ceramic caps? What brands should I go for and what rating for motherboards/gpus?
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Re: The Good Capacitors Photo Thread
Here are some caps i have, that i do not think they have pictures of them posted here.
Panasonic FZ: Dark blue, light golden stripe.
Panasonic HFQ: Got them from a Compaq branded psu (probbably Delta). Dark blue, white stripe.
Philips M series? Not sure. Got them from an old monitor. They seem fine, i use them for psus. Blue, black stripe.
Panasonic FJ: Black, golden stripe. Very good caps.
Panasonic FR: Black, white stripe. NB! They do not have the [M] logo, but they are genuine! (thank you Mariushm for the info!)
Rubycon W: Very old caps, from an old monitor. I use them for psus, probably not low enough ESR for boards. Light blue, dark blue stripe.
Fujitsu M: Yellow, black stripe. Not sure of the quality, should be ok. Vent is like the Sanyo K vent, but different from Rubycon K vent.
Panasonic FL: They look like polys (4v, 680uf, tiny, flat top, no vent) Black, golden stripe.
Sanyo CZ: Light green, white stripe.
Nichicon RZ: Not sure if genuine, they have a generic round (circles) bung. Black, white stripe.
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Re: The Good Capacitors Photo Thread
Really informative thread,Thanks OP!
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Re: The Good Capacitors Photo Thread
Panasonic FR series doesn't have the M logo on them, and it's plain white ink on black plastic.
I actually have some 100uF 16v panasonic FR capacitors, here's how they look:
btw, the 100uF shouldn't have a T vent at all, the size is too small for the capacitors to do any real damage or have enough gas to explode, so usually such small capacitors don't have any vent.
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Re: The Good Capacitors Photo Thread
Quick question here! I got some presumably Panasonic FR capacitors off some dead motherboard, but i am not sure if they are real. They have the usual T shaped vent and they look like Panasonics, but there is no [M] logo on them. They are rated for 16V 100uF and the printing quality is somewhat questionable (big print). 16V 1000uF 105c FR 23IDA.
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Re: The Good Capacitors Photo Thread
Originally posted by lmcancu View PostWhy are Chemicon KZG caps still in this thread?
I've since edited in a disclaimer.
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Re: The Good Capacitors Photo Thread
Why are Chemicon KZG caps still in this thread?
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Re: The Good Capacitors Photo Thread
Alluminum caps rarely short out in service. Usually they just dry out or bloat.
Never had one explode or bulge even if it was old, but that is 5years top.
However, tantalums are a completely different story. Those suckers will burn a hole in your board for no reason at all.Last edited by Pyr0Beast; 07-25-2010, 05:34 PM.
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Re: The Good Capacitors Photo Thread
Originally posted by Behemot... high-quality caps keep their specs over long time ...
Originally posted by Behemot... actually do not need to be reformed.
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Re: The Good Capacitors Photo Thread
Originally posted by BehemotI've read something about reforming, but than elsewhere somebody wrote that high-quality caps keep their specs over long time of use and actually do not need to be reformed.
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Re: The Good Capacitors Photo Thread
I've read something about reforming, but than elsewhere somebody wrote that high-quality caps keep their specs over long time of use and actually do not need to be reformed.
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Re: The Good Capacitors Photo Thread
The danger [one of them] of using old caps is that electrolytic caps reform in service.
Reform means the thickness of the aluminum oxide layer [which is the dielectric] changes.
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The thickness of that layer determines how much voltage the cap can handle without [what I will call] microscopic arcing between the plates. Once that arcing starts it gets worse quickly because the arcing burns off even more oxide layer leading to more arcing. The cap is 'done' at that point. It's on its way to becoming a short.
A used cap might say 16v on the label but if it has been in a 2v circuit then -now- it is only a 2v cap. [The oxide layer got thin in use.]
I hope that makes sense.
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Old but unused electrolytic caps have a similar problem because the oxide layer in unused electrolytic caps gets thinner over time.
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The oxide layer in lytics can be restored through a process called [what else?] reforming.
- There are as many different methods as people that do it...
Here is the Basic idea, look up more info on it if you plan to try it.
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Use a DC power supply with an adjustable voltage and a resister [to limit current] and apply a small voltage [1 or 2 vdc] to the cap[s].
[This can be done in batches of caps vs one cap at a time.]
Then every 10 minutes or so raise the voltage 1 volt until you get to the voltage marked on the caps.
Let it sit at rated voltage for 20-30 minutes.
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This will bebuild the thickness of the oxide layer without any internal arcing.
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[At the factory when caps are first built [depending on what the caps design can handle] they go to 120% to 150% of the rated voltage but that is to increase shelf life and isn't needed for caps you will use in a year or so.]
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Re: The Good Capacitors Photo Thread
Thanks for the info, I think I've encountered the Chemi-con logo with dot once, labeled United Chemi-con. I hope the Sam Young caps have some quality if they make caps for Chemi-non from time to time (hope they do not make the known problematic series ).
As for the Panny/Matsushita, these are from old CD-ROM drive, I'll be attentive to re-use them only out of PSU's :
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