Fixed a few of these all with the same fault. TV is dead.
Usually simple and easy to repair.
Check and replace D10 and D11 usually brings these back to life.
These power supplys are uses in loads of cheap sets 48" - 55"
2014 models to present day.
Want to thank you Hamie - D11 was the culprit. A $0.28 part later and the TV is back up and running. Replaced all the caps while I was at it. Hope I get another 5 years out of this!
Want to thank you Hamie - D11 was the culprit. A $0.28 part later and the TV is back up and running. Replaced all the caps while I was at it. Hope I get another 5 years out of this!
Hi, I have the same tv as you. Just wondering if you might direct me to where you ordered the $0.28 diodes for the repair. Thanks!
Thanks for the link. I grabbed some off ebay on an impulse buy. Hopefully they will work.
Edit: Decided to order from digikey since I know the parts will be quality.
Hello and a happy new year!
I've got the same "TV dead" problem, so I pulled out D10 and D11. Only one of them was dead (don't remember which one) but I replaced them both. I couldn't find the 5A/150V diode at my local shop so I put two 6A/1000V "Fast rectifier" diodes in.
Tv worked for 2 minutes and then turned off. D10 is dead again.
Instead of trying to find a matching diode, I'm going to assume the problem is somewhere else upstream. Any thoughts how to find the actual cause?
They have to be schottky diodes in this application. What is the P/N of the so called 'fast rectifier' diode that you put in.
You can look up the spec of the original diode and also the one from the digikey and compare it to the 'Fast rectifier' you put in.
Forward voltage is almost double of the Schottky one. I'm going to order a bunch of SR515 from digikey but I'll have to sneak it into someone else's order to avoid the ridiculous $25 delivery fee
Does any of you have the scheme of this PSU? I have a hkl-550201 b version 2.0 that has ic U4 (which is at the bottom, next to the bridge rectifier) blown, and I can't find any scheme, please help me!! Thank you!!!
I have the same board, but mine has a different problem, there seems to be now voltage on the output to the back light's, does anyone have a circuit diagram for this PSU.
New to the forum. Sorry for reviving such an old post. I currently own a Baird 55" with the same motherboard. My TV is currently stuck in standby, once I press the power button, the screen will do like a little flicker and not actually come on, any one got any idea with this type of stuff? Sorry for the newbie question.
Hello i have got a Mac Mini 2014 with 820-5509A motherboard it powers on but i cannot install macOS, in first part of installer it goes about 75% and reboots back again to installer
I think the bios was changed because it has a lot of flux around EFi chip
Thanks in advance
I have a 15 - inch Retina MacBook Pro from the mid - 2014 model. Here is the link: https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showth...light=820-3662 . The battery broke some time ago. After I removed the battery and plugged in the original power adapter, the MBP could boot up normally. However, when I checked with IntelPowerGadget, I found that the CPU speed was limited to 0.8 GHz, and it ran very slowly. Later, I found a solution on GitHub. There is an open - source project called cputune that can set the CPU running speed. So I can now run the MBP at full speed. But another problem...
I have set a EFI password and I can't remember it : now I want to reinstall macOS and I can't because the MacBook is asking for the password.
I know how to remove the password with a usb programmer.
I plug the usb programmer to the motherboard and to my pc with usb, I read the EFI and I save it to a file.
Then I have to find this value in the file : $SVS because it indicate where is the password.
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