Hi guys. I've come into possession of a pn51d530a3fxza. Hopefully I'm using the correct terminology.
I did try searching and I found a lot of posts with similar issues, but very very few ever come to a resolution which is why I'm posting.
Symptoms:
The tv does not power on. It tries about 6 times and the relay on the main power board clicks as it tries.
Troubleshooting:
I visually inspected the boards and couldn't find anything obvious like puffed caps.
The second thing I tried doing was unplugging the y-main. When I did this the tv did its power on jingle . Next I plugged the y-main back in and tried unplugging the x-main and I then got the same jingle. So from my research it's looking like I need a x-main board. On this tv the power goes into the y-main and then from the y-main into the x-main.
Also from my research it looks like defective firmware caused a lot of problems in these models with the x and y mains, but I looked on Samsung's website and the firmware that's available for my tv is older than the tv is which is troubling. I guess it's possible they put old firmware on the tv during manufacturing. This info may not apply to my exact model though I'm not sure.
Next I looked at x-main boards on ebay. I put the model number that is listed on my x-main and the results are x-mains that look similar, but are slightly different. I'm assuming this is just a different revision? All of the connectors were in the correct places.
So basically what I'm looking for are recommendations before I buy an x-main.
Pictures:
In my post the y-main I'm talking about is on the left and the x-main is on the top right. The img tag doesn't seem to be working for me so I put the url for the picture below it.
http://imgur.com/toflbaF <-- picture of back of tv with cover off.
http://imgur.com/c67macw <-- this is what the ebay x-main looks like. It's missing a cap that the one in my tv has.
Another thing I'm finding is some people are recommending replacing the y-main as well because it might be what's causing the x-main to fail. Is there any way I can test for this? It'd save me $30-$40 if I didn't need to buy the y-main as well.
Another thing I thought of was that when I was checking the voltage test leads they start at a normal voltage and then slowly go back down to zero. This is with the y-main hooked up and the x-main unplugged.

Symptoms:
The tv does not power on. It tries about 6 times and the relay on the main power board clicks as it tries.
Troubleshooting:
I visually inspected the boards and couldn't find anything obvious like puffed caps.
The second thing I tried doing was unplugging the y-main. When I did this the tv did its power on jingle . Next I plugged the y-main back in and tried unplugging the x-main and I then got the same jingle. So from my research it's looking like I need a x-main board. On this tv the power goes into the y-main and then from the y-main into the x-main.
Also from my research it looks like defective firmware caused a lot of problems in these models with the x and y mains, but I looked on Samsung's website and the firmware that's available for my tv is older than the tv is which is troubling. I guess it's possible they put old firmware on the tv during manufacturing. This info may not apply to my exact model though I'm not sure.
Next I looked at x-main boards on ebay. I put the model number that is listed on my x-main and the results are x-mains that look similar, but are slightly different. I'm assuming this is just a different revision? All of the connectors were in the correct places.
So basically what I'm looking for are recommendations before I buy an x-main.
Pictures:
In my post the y-main I'm talking about is on the left and the x-main is on the top right. The img tag doesn't seem to be working for me so I put the url for the picture below it.
http://imgur.com/toflbaF <-- picture of back of tv with cover off.
http://imgur.com/c67macw <-- this is what the ebay x-main looks like. It's missing a cap that the one in my tv has.
Another thing I'm finding is some people are recommending replacing the y-main as well because it might be what's causing the x-main to fail. Is there any way I can test for this? It'd save me $30-$40 if I didn't need to buy the y-main as well.
Another thing I thought of was that when I was checking the voltage test leads they start at a normal voltage and then slowly go back down to zero. This is with the y-main hooked up and the x-main unplugged.
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