Yes i have all, only i dont have thermal camera
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Philips 58PUS7555/12 backlight only
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Manufactures recommends not to supply any current to the supply lines of panel before the vcc is turned on, this will bring to a non recoverable damage (i did it in early days and ruined some traces on a tab) , i have already explained how short can be searched, or with a 100/1000th ohm meter, this is the basis from what i read, every tcon has a different precise timing where the supply lines appears. After this,.48ohm do not resemble a short.. a short is usually less than 1 ohm. Bye.Comment
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48 ohms could be a failure on the panel ICs or it could be a failure on the board. Ceramic caps can and do fail "leaky".
Without being able to detach the panel there is a risk of damaging it but I would still try since there is not much to lose if the TV is already broken.
I would apply 2-3V at current limit 500mA across the VAA supply and see what gets warm, you can carefully use freezer spray or isopropyl alcohol to help, as they will evaporate if the components get hot. Thermal camera makes it even easier.Please do not PM me with questions! Questions via PM will not be answered. Post on the forums instead!
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I noticed only now the last page posts.. well, this chot is the new fashion of poop tv sets where half tcon circ. is on the tcon board or main b. and half is on the strip boards, this from the pitctures appears has two twin chips for the gamma control, i know gamma control uses VAA to generate gamma levels, my bet is that some discrete or the chip themselves for the gamma circuits are at fault, so check every discrete first, those 0 ohms etc...Comment
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How to do that?
I would apply 2-3V at current limit 500mA across the VAA supply and see what gets warm, you can carefully use freezer spray or isopropyl alcohol to help, as they will evaporate if the components get hot. Thermal camera makes it even easier.
Which one is this chips
my bet is that some discrete or the chip themselves for the gamma circuits are at fault, so check every discrete first, those 0 ohms etc...Comment
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Solder wire to VAA test point which is your positive and a wire to the ground on the T-con board which is black.
Power to the TV should be OFF, disconnect T-con from everything except the panel ribbon with the 48 ohms short.
Connect power supply (ensure polarity is correct) set voltage very low max 1V, set current limit to 500mA, increase voltage and start looking for warm spots. If nothing happens ramp up to about 3-4V, max 1A. You should be able to find the short at that point.Please do not PM me with questions! Questions via PM will not be answered. Post on the forums instead!
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Comment
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Could be the chip next to it, are you sure thermal and visible are lined up as those FLIR cameras require you to adjust the alignment for each viewing distance usually.Please do not PM me with questions! Questions via PM will not be answered. Post on the forums instead!
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Well I suggest double checking with freezer spray or alcohol.Please do not PM me with questions! Questions via PM will not be answered. Post on the forums instead!
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Related Topics
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by bohabohawhen i power on the TV is black ,Do I remove the right or the left ribbon I get respectively the right or the left half screen working
Do I disconnect the plug from the power supply, no backlight
Thought the backlight would light up when you remove the plug from the power supply but no
What could be wrong if both halves work separately?... -
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Channel: Schematics and Boardviews
10-31-2024, 03:58 AM -
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by alltvrepairsHi,
I have just replaced led set of this vestel tv due to age.
I would like to reduce backlight from service mode. I have tried menu 4725 but in the menu i can't change anything.
Any help pls? I don't want to change from electronics inverter feedback resistor ideally.
Thanks again.... -
by ohrenI raised the question of whether PWM on the power board "dim" pin would be a reasonable assumption for controlling the backlight of a Philips TV (55put6101/12): https://www.badcaps.net/forum/troubl...d-tv-backlight. I didn't receive any insights there so I went ahead and tried it.
The setup is basically:
Rpi3 hardware PWM → 220 Ohm → NPN transistor → dim pin
Transistor is switching the 3.5 V supply on the power board.... -
by chesterccSo i'm trying to replace the LED's in a Philips TV. It's 42" with a 715g7262-p01-000-0010 backlight driver board based around an O2 Micro OZ9902CGN.
My issue is when I replace all the LED's on one board with the new 3V 300ma ones they immediately burn out when the set is powered again. I previously tried the same thing with 6V LED's and the backlight flickered for a bit but wouldn't start.
The original LED's which I removed which are still working start to melt and burn when given more than 3V on DCPS so I know they shouldn't be higher voltage ones.
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