Samsung PN60E6500EFXZA no power or standby

[tom66]

Re: Samsung PN60E6500EFXZA no power or standby

I've heard such fuses blow because of devices I've failed to notice on the board were still shorted. In my early days, I found a blown ceramic fuse on a power supply. I decided to replace that with a glass fuse. I did not test the rest of the PSU for shorts, which was silly. When I plugged the power in, the fuse failed. It burst and shattered. That made a very loud noise.

Interrupting hundreds of amps of fault current -will- make a fuse go "pop" - no question - at least for us with 230V mains - perhaps the fault current is too low on 115V?

[Jaysplace7]

Re: Samsung PN60E6500EFXZA no power or standby

When your board had a burn mark on it was it qs802 and burned ds808 I am trying to find the part at ds808 I seen a kit to repair these boards but they don't replace the ds808 chip

[Logen1]

Re: Samsung PN60E6500EFXZA no power or standby

brentosmith. Did you take your Y Buffers off? If you remove the upper buffer you will most likely see holes on the underside where the IC's are located. This could cause the tv to power cycle or not turn on at all.

[Quietwind]

Re: Samsung PN60E6500EFXZA no power or standby

The blown fuses could have been from the surge on off. Replace them or short them(like we do lol)and see what happens. I use a piece of solder wire because it will melt if its too hot from amp flow.

Only Amateurs "Jump/bypass" Fuses!

BTW PN60E6500EFXZA is PLASMA "not" LCD so I have no clue why you mention inverter either.

[QUOTE=brentosmith;475805]I'm fairly new to this but work in consumer electronics and see people doing this kind of stuff all the time so I think I can figure it out with some guidance. I just got a multimeter and started testing parts.

It turns out the fuse in the bottom left corner of the picture is blown on both boards. So does that indicate a problem on some other board?


FYI - That is the best choice from the start; and the only way you learn, and teach yourself! Simply pull out the meter you can't go wrong.

Given this is an old post perhaps it can help someone else!

1)You have the issue doesn't power on, and tripped AC input breaker on your Power Strip, thus the logical and "Safest "next step since it tripped the breaker; disconnect AC input cable from the tv entirely! That will insure your safety...... If breaker was tripped on power strip; and most commonly if the Power Supply appears to be culprit you don't want to be playing around specially with output high voltages on Plasma TV.

2) First test both fuses on Power Supply if they are blown it is commonly shorted FET or Main Bridge Rectifier; and in conjunction your also looking for obvious blown shorts or defective caps! Logically, looking at Hot Side first; either you find problem based on visual inspection, or you locate cause of blown fuses while unplugged.

BTW Only Amateurs "Jump/bypass" Fuses!

Based on the picture of your power supply someone was definitely attempting a repair previous looking at the silicone glob's at the FETS.

In that aspect carefully visually inspect both top and bottom of board particularly around Mosfet's and Power Transistors looking for any burn't trace, obvious blown out components or faulty solder joint including Cap's.!

3) Once your are certain you have checked for obvious indicators on Power Supply; The first Live Power testing should only be done "AFTER" disconnecting and test both Outputs X-Main, Y-Main for "shorted" VA to Ground.
I simply leave them unplugged; test outputs "both sides", "X & Y" Main Output Cables but I test for "short" VA to Ground X, and Y both at socket on P/SUPPLY, and Test VS, VA for short to Ground on Harness Side to X, Y - SUS inputs. Theoretically if X-Main, Or Y-Main is shorted this will cause blown fuses on power supply or instant failure from cracked Plasma Screen.

4) Only start AC "Live" testing with "all" power connectors off; you can then apply AC input and start testing voltages on Power Supply including VA, VS test point voltages according to label on back of PDP Panel, and you can also check all AC input HOT SIDE of P/SUPPLY, and proceed testing DC output voltages, and then move on to plugging in main logic harness checking standby voltage to confirm standby is now functional with AC POWER "CONNECTED", if not verify Bridge Rectifiers have AC input, and DC output.

5) If You still have AC power good, and Tested all DC outputs "COLD" side of POWER SUPPLY at all labelled pinouts; shut power off again, (In Standby) plug in VS Harness's LEFT and RIGHT SIDE. If you have kid's first check with AC input dead ;should be a very close inspection of Display Screen using a flashlight.... If you see cracked screen (PLASMA) high probability will cause near certain death in Power Supply including. The basic test result your are observing is TV attempts to power on with One "VS Harness" connected at a time and doesn't kill AC input. While shutdown will occur, it will return to active standby (shutdown). If AC input remained actively good; last test plug in the other VS Harness, power on again. Usually won't blow every buffer IC or a shorted Y-SUS OR BOTH X/Y SUSTAINS but you would normally have seen problems developing sometime previously, and or worsening intermittent fault.

Hope that helps someone!