I'm stuck on this tv. It has sound, and has backlight glow, but no picture. I've tried new power board, and new main board, but no change. Tried a new t con but still no change. I've updated the firmware after new parts with no change. Is it likely the panel is just dead of would it be lvds cables. I did take some shorter ones I had on hand and connected those between the main and t con just to see if I'd get a picture but no luck. I'm not sure what else there is to blame. Do screens just go out completely but remain with a backlight glow? The screen has been removed and used a backlight tester on all strips. All tested good so backlight isn't the problem. No blinking codes. Any suggestions?
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Yes screens can go out and show backlight glow.
Test the screen.. first take a pick of the PSU legend clip that goes to main board and the one that goes to TCON to verify and then we can give you directions -
It is worth nothing that no image shows when you disconnect either side of the lvds cables, nor when both sides are disconnected.Attached FilesComment
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Just be be fair. I've confirmed the power supply is good already with proper voltages. Same readings and results with a backup known working power supply. This is a new (as in different) main board from the one it had when it went black. I have confirmed it is the correct model for the tv. This is also a replacement t con as that was the last board that hadn't been swapped. In the past I even swapped out the LDA board but no change. But seeing as this is a new power supply, new main, and new t con, and the firmware update has been put the root of a USB and put into the tv. I know it reads the usb because the light on it flashes but it doesn't enter into a turn off cycle no matter how long I wait. Either it's not applying the update correctly or there has to be a bad cable. Unless the screen has totally died, which I guess is possible, but less likely.Comment
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Need to make sure the numbers on the sticker of the mainboards match, it isn't enough to just match the model of tv.Comment
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I didn't ask to confirm the power board is working. This is too test screen.
You need to disconnect the connector from the PSU to the main board at the main board. Then you need to disconnect the LVDS cable from the t-con side to the motherboard no cable should be connected to the t-con except for the PSU. Then you need to jumper the PS- on the standby the t-con on and the BL-on. In doing so you should have a screen pattern show up on the screen with red green and blue images. Let us know what happens.
Also to update the TV you may have the correct instructions but if you don't there is a link.
https://tvpartstoday.com/pages/sony-...FpiVJqaspncoXZ
It's also important to note that the USB drive needs to be two gigabyte or 4 GB fat 32. Even if you change a different size USB to fat32 it's not going to work. At least I've tried and it doesn't so yeah.
Last edited by EazyBone; 02-01-2025, 11:54 PM.Comment
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Yeah I have a 4gb flash drive around here somewhere but can't figure out where I put it. I've had success in the past with larger ones. it know that they should be 4gb or less in fat32. What I did was take a hard drive in an external case, deleted all partitions, then created a new one that was only 3gbs. The rest of the disk drive isn't allocated to any partitions. I'm still hunting for that drive hoping it'll do the trick too. I'll jumper it later when I have time to get to it.Originally posted by EazyBone View PostComment
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Originally posted by EazyBone View Post
Alright did the jumper procedure as you instructed but no response. I known if I pull the BL on, PWR on, or STBY the power supply clicks on and clicks again if reconnected, but when it comes to the tcon on, there is no change whether the jumper is connected or not. or not. And it doesn't power on or show backlights when you try to turn the tv on with all 4 junpers connected.
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its mistake to play with PSu and jumpers when you have sound and BL. but screen remain black..
any damage on scgreen glass at any courner will kill the VCC..
yours way to take bezel out and ispect the screen glass.... and to play with U ribbon to disconnect one side each timeComment
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How about a picture of the whole back to see what kind of animal we are dealing with.Comment
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Alright. It's a pretty typical Sony LED layout.Originally posted by nomoresonys View PostAttached FilesComment
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The screen has already been inspected for cracks when it was pulled off for test the backlight, if you're thinking that. Glass is all in tact.Originally posted by Diah View PostComment
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Replacement mainboard could be bad. The tv is 4 years or so old, that's about the time that the eMMC dies and needs replaced. Maybe check some fuses there's one on the LD board, some sonys have a few little fuses on the mainboard.Last edited by nomoresonys; 02-02-2025, 05:19 PM.Comment
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Sonys are SO hard to diagnose, spent time looking at repair forums with just hundreds of people having the same problems that they can not figure out. Anyone know why they are like this or have any theories? Thinking it must be design flaw/s. I know a lot of times the issue is a dead eMMC.Last edited by nomoresonys; 02-02-2025, 05:38 PM.Comment
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With everything hooked up as normal, is the light at the optical port of mainboard lit?Comment
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Yes the red light optical is lit. Proper voltages around the eMMC too. only way to tell if that was bad would be to remove it. But seeing as multiple boards had the same symptoms, it's less likely to be the main board.Originally posted by nomoresonys View PostComment
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I can't find the 4gb thumbdrive so I'm at a standstill. The hard drive partitioned didn't work. the tv reads it but doesn't apply the update correctly because I end up with about 10 or so folders that you'd typically see on an android phone (Alarm, DCIM, Music, etc) but they are all empty folders.Comment
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Ask a neighbor or friend or something. They need this usb size... Hard to say it's not this without properly trying IMO.
When you try it does it blink amber or green or do anything?Comment
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