Philips 55pfl5766/f7 Software crashes

[x_orange90_x]

for help to keep it long stay on freezing the chips on mainboards

I'm going to be directing my attention back to this set soon. I'm considering buying a replacement main board but I am wondering if the same thing would happen to it eventually.

If I DO freeze the chip, what do i need to immediately be doing while it's frozen? ADB commands, or trying a factory reset? I was given multiple things to try, so that's why I'm asking what exactly is the best approach while it is cold.

[Davi.p]

The cooling is not a touch of the wizard.. it can only say if it has soldering problems.. > THE COOLER > LESS RESISTANCE... others stories are for the childs and stop...

PS: also heating a lot without making a reflow is index of bad soldering, especially broken joints..
ususally very badly working device is a sign of broken joints..

[x_orange90_x]

The cooling is not a touch of the wizard.. it can only say if it has soldering problems.. > THE COOLER > LESS RESISTANCE... others stories are for the childs and stop...

PS: also heating a lot without making a reflow is index of bad soldering, especially broken joints..
ususally very badly working device is a sign of broken joints..

I was just about to reference back to this on the previous page 😬 but i see that was YOUR comment and the situation was eh... Handled.

Anyway, I suppose id have to get you pictures to know. If it's a solder issue I would expect it to be memory and not CPU. It literally acts like it has no memory past whatever point in time it initially failed. I can connect to WiFi, delete the Google account, add new account, add/remove apps.. then upon reboot it's all back to the way it was.. like all the changes made are going to RAM but not getting saved to memory.

I have a hot air station so I'm game to torch this baby. It's ticked me off enough to do so 😆

[Davi.p]

what i want to know is if the main flash memory is a nand flash in tsop48 (tv model is quite dated), because nand flash type is slow access time memory, and needs to be copied to ram, so when processor crashes it has no time to save data to nvm

[Davi.p]

I thank admin Chris for the help, i deleted his email for error, but i read it..

[lotas]

what i want to know is if the main flash memory is a nand flash in tsop48 (tv model is quite dated), because nand flash type is slow access time memory, and needs to be copied to ram, so when processor crashes it has no time to save data to nvm

This model has eMMC.

[x_orange90_x]

This model has eMMC.

So does the circled chip possibly need to be reflowed?

Side note, my brother wanted me that Hynix memory chips have a high failure rate... Would this be because of internal failure, it weak solder connections?

[lotas]

So does the circled chip possibly need to be reflowed?

Side note, my brother wanted me that Hynix memory chips have a high failure rate... Would this be because of internal failure, it weak solder connections?

eMMC chips never suffer from solder joints, they suffer from wear and tear (eMMC Life-Cycle).

[x_orange90_x]

eMMC chips never suffer from solder joints, they suffer from wear and tear (eMMC Life-Cycle).

Oh boy, so it's literally just junk then? Are my symptoms the same for this type of failure?

It's hard to believe the chip being write cycled THAT many times in just a TV. Unless it exclusively writes to this chip and writes every individual change rather than writing in bulk.. If so, wow, what a great oversight 🙄

Edit:

Hmmm, idk Lotas, after reading about Galaxy Note 4 eMMC failures I think reflowing might do the trick:

https://xdaforums.com/t/sm-n910f-res...ssues.4145339/

Despite it being a phone rather than a tv, my symptoms are VERY similar:

"Attempts to factory reset failed" and writing ROMS would fail, random freezes and reboots, boot loops.

I think I may just give this a shot as I have nothing to lose

[Davi.p]

Ok can you give me the model code of the Hynix chip? besides this i think every bga chip can fail due to balls

[x_orange90_x]

Ok can you give me the model code of the Hynix chip? besides this i think every bga chip can fail due to balls

I don't have it in front of me at the moment. But I have a couple questions about the process..

I don't have liquid flux, and I'm the past I reflowed an LG plasma BGA without any flux and it worked perfectly fine. It's not sold locally either.

Can I:
A - melt flux paste and squirt it under the chip
B - use no flux at all like I did in the past
C - use a non-electrical liquid flux (see below)

The local hardware store DOES sell this non-electrical liquid flux:
https://www.acehardware.com/departme...essories/24995

I can't find hardly any information about it so yeah, I'm not sure.

[Davi.p]

Try to give me that chip model, is to understand which ic is the most culprit, flux paste is perfect, you need first to blow hot air from every side towards the center making it flow in liquid under, but i strongly advice to make the reflow by under, buying an aluminum plate of 3mm thick (convert metric) , 10-15cm side (square), put it on a small stove at low flow, if there are components under, take aluminum foil, shrink it a bit and press the board on to it and on a flat surface., about a minute after flux starts to smoke a lot, you need a homemade fume exrractor, a simple fixed pc fan with a lead battery or small psu, then start trying to move a bit the chip by gently touch a corner with a slim long screwdriver, when chip moves turn off gas and let cool down, this method avoids risk of chip overheating and popcorn effect

[x_orange90_x]

Try to give me that chip model, is to understand which ic is the most culprit, flux paste is perfect, you need first to blow hot air from every side towards the center making it flow in liquid under, but i strongly advice to make the reflow by under, buying an aluminum plate of 3mm thick (convert metric) , 10-15cm side (square), put it on a small stove at low flow, if there are components under, take aluminum foil, shrink it a bit and press the board on to it and on a flat surface., about a minute after flux starts to smoke a lot, you need a homemade fume exrractor, a simple fixed pc fan with a lead battery or small psu, then start trying to move a bit the chip by gently touch a corner with a slim long screwdriver, when chip moves turn off gas and let cool down, this method avoids risk of chip overheating and popcorn effect

Here is the chip. See attached photo.

[Davi.p]

It seems an eMMC, someone says NAND flash, so i don't know if it's a processor issue or flash, better start with the flash, but a reflow is not guaranteed work long term..
Since you'll probably do it only on the eMMC for start, so it is best suitable heating with air on top, that the chip is small so i guess it is not impossible to do so.. remember i think oxidated balls melts slower, sometimes needs a long heating but starting with lower temp and increasing if the chip doesn't move.. if you care of your TV set, i suggest an half reflow (chip don't needs move) completely without flux, this is a poor technique to reduce oxydation, point the heat from side, it must flow better under, then test the TV, if you see improvements, then take the board to a professional or semi professional reball shop.. (it is not a ball cracking issue, it is a matter of oxydation)

finally needs a last step, i tell you next time..

[x_orange90_x]

It seems an eMMC, someone says NAND flash, so i don't know if it's a processor issue or flash, better start with the flash, but a reflow is not guaranteed work long term..
Since you'll probably do it only on the eMMC for start, so it is best suitable heating with air on top, that the chip is small so i guess it is not impossible to do so.. remember i think oxidated balls melts slower, sometimes needs a long heating but starting with lower temp and increasing if the chip doesn't move.. if you care of your TV set, i suggest an half reflow (chip don't needs move) completely without flux, this is a poor technique to reduce oxydation, point the heat from side, it must flow better under, then test the TV, if you see improvements, then take the board to a professional or semi professional reball shop.. (it is not a ball cracking issue, it is a matter of oxydation)

finally needs a last step, i tell you next time..

I gave it a shot last night. 350c for about 1 minute, circling around and across the chip about 1/2 inch from the surface. Now it doesn't work at all 😂 I tried once more and same result. No optical port light, no backlight, no boot animation audio, nothing. I can hear the PSU cycling every 30 seconds or so but that's it. This may be a clue though that the issue IS solder connection... Or I simply killed it.

Maybe I should give it one more shot? Higher temp? Longer? Or, alternatively.. Throw it in the garbage 🤷🏼

[lotas]

I gave it a shot last night. 350c for about 1 minute, circling around and across the chip about 1/2 inch from the surface. Now it doesn't work at all 😂 I tried once more and same result. No optical port light, no backlight, no boot animation audio, nothing. I can hear the PSU cycling every 30 seconds or so but that's it. This may be a clue though that the issue IS solder connection... Or I simply killed it.

Maybe I should give it one more shot? Higher temp? Longer? Or, alternatively.. Throw it in the garbage 🤷🏼

You have completely killed your eMMC, don't listen to advice!
I wrote above that eMMCs do not suffer from bad soldering, they suffer from wear, and when eMMCs heat up (especially Hynix, they completely die), now look for a new motherboard.

[x_orange90_x]

You have completely killed your eMMC, don't listen to advice!
I wrote above that eMMCs do not suffer from bad soldering, they suffer from wear, and when eMMCs heat up (especially Hynix, they completely die), now look for a new motherboard.

Did you look at the link I referenced above? Galaxy Note 4 suffered eMMC issues that oven reflows mitigated. Either way I had nothing to lose. What's the difference between half dead and dead 😆

[lotas]

Did you look at the link I referenced above? Galaxy Note 4 suffered eMMC issues that oven reflows mitigated. Either way I had nothing to lose. What's the difference between half dead and dead 😆

Half-dead is when the wear comes to an end and something else can be removed from it (read partitions (boot, user, keys,..) via isp, without heating or desoldering it from the board, and then transfer this native data to a new eMMC, and dead is when there is nothing that can no longer be read from it or the programmer can no longer recognize it.

Regarding the link that you gave, I don't know what happened there, but at 100 - 120 degrees, tin, solder (especially without lead) cannot melt and
Reconnect the components on the board.

[x_orange90_x]

Half-dead is when the wear comes to an end and something else can be removed from it (read partitions (boot, user, keys,..) via isp, without heating or desoldering it from the board, and then transfer this native data to a new eMMC, and dead is when there is nothing that can no longer be read from it or the programmer can no longer recognize it.

Regarding the link that you gave, I don't know what happened there, but at 100 - 120 degrees, tin, solder (especially without lead) cannot melt and
Reconnect the components on the board.

I thought that was quite low as well for the usual to have gotten results, but the point is he followed a pattern of other users who likewise succeeded in reflowing and resurrecting their phones.

Anyway, I found a board for about $34 with free shipping. That's not bad at all. When I get it I'll report back.

Edit: btw, in the shape it was in I don't think anything could've been recovered anyway. It did not respond well with ADB when I tried.

[Davi.p]

I do not know the exact temp. needed, i don't have a professional station, it seems ok, but depends on the air flow and duration, 1 minute and high flow it's not an half reflow, without a deoxidizing paste the already bad balls can maybe loose more contact, what i would do now is a complete reflow with flux (and move), that hot air as you used cannot destroy a chip for me... you can contact a reballing lab and send to them only the removed emmc to reball it, receive it back and solder it back, or buy a new emmc and send both of them to a repair lab that makes a copy, then you solder back the new chip, but bad balls could maybe corrupt some files so is a risk..