Philips 55pfl5766/f7 Software crashes

[lotas]

I verified that the panel the donor board came from is the same exact panel number as mine.

Well, since the panels are the same, then everything should fit.

[x_orange90_x]

Well, since the panels are the same, then everything should fit.

I will report back after I get the board 😁

[x_orange90_x]

Got the replacement board today and installed it. The tv still does not work.. I can hear the power supply staying on now instead of power cycling, but I get no sound, no lights, nothing. The only difference between these boards is the EMMC chip in which the replacement is NOT a Hynix which I thought would be beneficial.

My power supply board looks IDENTICAL to the sellers (originally he had them listed as a kit but separated for me). The only difference between the power supply board is the very last digit. Mine is "BAD1R0F01 02 2" and his is "BAD1R0F01 02 3". I doubt they have to match.

The only thing that happened between this tv functioning and not functioning was my attempt at heating the eMMC on the original board. I have no idea what's going on here and I'm ready to kick this thing 😡


Edit: I did find a difference. C657 is on his board but not mine. There is a place on my board for it. Would this cause an issue? Could I simply install the missing cap?

[x_orange90_x]

I guess it doesn't matter.. I agreed the missing cap. No different.

Only issue with the main board I got is the volume down bottom doesn't click when pressed. I supposed it could be broken/stuck in.. but I doubt that would be the issue

[Davi.p]

I would check the power board at bench, also with dummy loads..
Anyway the electronics of these boards looks very basic... and very cheap..

[x_orange90_x]

I would check the power board at bench, also with dummy loads..
Anyway the electronics of these boards looks very basic... and very cheap..

I thought installing that missing capacitor would take care of it nope. Do you think the stuck Volume Down button could be preventing the tv from turning on?

[Davi.p]

absolutely no..

[x_orange90_x]

absolutely no..

I've asked the seller to send me the power supply that goes with this main board. Either it's going to work, or it isn't. If it does not then there has to be an issue with the main board I received.

Btw, I checked the voltage of the capacitor I installed and it is reading correctly, so there is at least voltage to that point.

[Davi.p]

I know "pfl" series is from many years ago, easily the board you ordered sat unused for long time, since those voices about bad naming of hinyx flash chips, maybe it had long time to oxydize it too, too bad solder to hope to recover it.. only reballing or another board.. as.you see the.smaller the balls, the more the problems

[lotas]

I guess it doesn't matter.. I agreed the missing cap. No different.

Only issue with the main board I got is the volume down bottom doesn't click when pressed. I supposed it could be broken/stuck in.. but I doubt that would be the issue

Check the button with a multimeter to see if it is leaking, as well as the others, if it shorts or has a leak, then because of this the TV may not turn on, since it cannot execute two commands at the same time.

[Diah]

Got the replacement board today and installed it. The tv still does not work.. I can hear the power supply staying on now instead of power cycling, but I get no sound, no lights, nothing. The only difference between these boards is the EMMC chip in which the replacement is NOT a Hynix which I thought would be beneficial.

My power supply board looks IDENTICAL to the sellers (originally he had them listed as a kit but separated for me). The only difference between the power supply board is the very last digit. Mine is "BAD1R0F01 02 2" and his is "BAD1R0F01 02 3". I doubt they have to match.

The only thing that happened between this tv functioning and not functioning was my attempt at heating the eMMC on the original board. I have no idea what's going on here and I'm ready to kick this thing 😡


Edit: I did find a difference. C657 is on his board but not mine. There is a place on my board for it. Would this cause an issue? Could I simply install the missing cap?

different serial No and different component installed on MB mean too different at wiring tree between MB and PSU and MB and button control include wifi BT.

[x_orange90_x]

Davi.p: the new board does not have a Hynix chip. Also, the seller said there's board were pulled from a brand new tv that was cracked.

Lotas: I considered simply removing it from the board, but if I did that the seller surely wouldn't take it back if I asked to return it. It definitely seems plausible that it COULD prevent the tv from turning on because with other tvs before I've tried forcing resets and such by holding input and power, power and volume, etc and the TV would not turn on with a combination being pressed. As for checking with a multimeter I'm not sure how. It is soldered on by 4 points and I don't know how to check that.

Diah: not sure what you mean. All connectors are labeled the same and fit correctly. The Wi-Fi board is separate and plugs in via a cable, which I have tried leaving unplugged to no avail. Buttons are part of the board, not a separate PCB so I don't think that would be an issue. Both models have identical features. I've come to the conclusion that the F7D being a later serial number (ME7) is just an updated revision with alternate eMMC manufacturer because of previous high failure rate?

The seller did say he would send me his power supply tomorrow to try. Unless me heating up the old eMMC caused a short that damaged my power supply, I don't see how it could be an issue of incompatibility. ShopJimmy sells 7 or 8 different board kits for this tv and they all contain the same model power supply that under known models lists ALL revisions. That implies a single power supply is compatible between all revisions. Interestingly though, the power supply they sell has the C657 capacitor whereas mine *did not*... But because I added it I don't think that's the issue.

I'm leaning towards it actually being the stuck button because it makes the most sense. I gotta I could just start checking the resistance between the solders and comparing it to the other buttons.

[Diah]

could you show the MB sockets from downside and upside of the original and the replacement

[x_orange90_x]

could you show the MB sockets from downside and upside of the original and the replacement

Yes I will get those for you in a little while.

[x_orange90_x]

could you show the MB sockets from downside and upside of the original and the replacement

Here you go

[x_orange90_x]

I noticed just now a lot of discoloration under the CPU of the replacement board.

[Davi.p]

I read back the first post, now on relax i can focus better maybe, i would to know, when you heated the rom, have you cool it down 100% before turning it on?
i forgot.. the board must be cool 100% due to thermal protection
About the stuck keys, i considered you had the remote too, so the local button do not have to interfere, but maybe you repair for home business and you have not the remote, so this changes..

PS: noticed now you last photo... and this would be brand new?! Compliments to the seller.. this cpu has very bad balls and fried!!

[Diah]

I noticed just now a lot of discoloration under the CPU of the replacement board.

let me see the flat ribbon cable pin contact from booth side between the PSU and MB and inspect it along if there black spot or burn

[x_orange90_x]

I read back the first post, now on relax i can focus better maybe, i would to know, when you heated the rom, have you cool it down 100% before turning it on?
i forgot.. the board must be cool 100% due to thermal protection
About the stuck keys, i considered you had the remote too, so the local button do not have to interfere, but maybe you repair for home business and you have not the remote, so this changes..

PS: noticed now you last photo... and this would be brand new?! Compliments to the seller.. this cpu has very bad balls and fried!!

I have the original remote. Makes no difference at all if I press buttons on it or the tv. Also I checked the resistance on the stuck button and it appears to be in the "unpressed" state, so that's not the issue.

And ya, between the heat discoloration and stuck button there no way this came from an even remotely new set 🙄

[x_orange90_x]

let me see the flat ribbon cable pin contact from booth side between the PSU and MB and inspect it along if there black spot or burn

Looks good to me.