Yeah, I put the - probe on pin 1(+) and tested 2,3,4 How do I test pin one? That's the one I didn't read I guess. I saw a youtube vid from tampatec and thats how he tested it I believe so figured I was doing it right.
OK, that explained why 3 readings. So you should also test red probe on pin 4 (-) against 1, 2, and 3 to see what you get, but you have to remove it from the board. That kind of test you did will not show if one of the diode has open circuit because there are two set of diode in parallel. If you draw up what are inside the bridge you will understand why.
Oooh...Got ya. Thanks for taking the time to help me on this. I'm sure it'll help others down the road who are novices. I'm about to take them out of circuit but they're all showing .5's now brb
OK, lets do this:meter in Diode mode
Black probe on + (pin 1) red on ~ (pin 2) it should read about 0.5
Black probe on + (pin 1) red on ~ (pin 3) it should read about 0.5
Red probe on - (pin 4) black on ~ (pin 2) it should read about 0.5
Red probe on - (pin 4) black on ~ (pin 3) it should read about 0.5
Put the bridge back in place. Another test, put meter in AC Volt and measure the AC voltage on the two pads where the TVS legs was solder to, it should show 120VAC.
I plugged it back in and got 16-17 v by probing the top side of the holes. I did put it back in circuit(bridge) as well. Edit: I flipped it over and probed the pads and got 005. v
That THxx is the inrush current limiter. I cannot see why you only getting 4~5V, that '1' reading is the voltage between N (Neutral) pin of the incoming AC and one end of the fuse (in this case the lamp).
There is no way you only getting 4~5VAC at those two points of '1' test points, you lamp is good? Something is not done right or measuring right.
What do you get at L and N where the AC connector is connected too?
Well that one was my fault for sure!! I still didn't get high readings on the points you pointed out but I put one probe on N and the other on one of the pads for the fuse holder and got 124vac and I put the other probe on the other AC line, L I think it was and probed the other fuse holder and got the same 124vac. I know it's not what you had outlined but I probed around after you said N and fuse and found 120vac that way.
Okay so after going back over the steps, I got the 150w flood light to light up with everything connected back on the board.
I removed that TVS off the board and tested again. Bulb didn't light up, just sparked from trying to get the contacts to connect thinking I wasn't holding it on the connections right..
Put the TVS back on the board and tested again, boom bright light...Took it back off and couldn't get it to light up at all.
So, if the bulb lights up, there is a short somewhere and if it never lights up, no shorts?
I'm really crossing my fingers that I found the component that's causing all my problems.
TVS in, lamp lights up, TVS removed, lamp does not light: it means the TVS is shorted, so I do not know what you did wrong when we tested it before.
Leave TVS out and check the DC voltage on the B+ and primary ground again.
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