Lg 50pc3d Clicking noice from IC201

[dcapper]

I have a flickering washed out picture on the tv and IC201 (STK type of chip) of the YSUS board is clicking. I checked Vs=196v, Va=60v. The panel says -vy should be -200 and it is. VSC should be 120 and it is. I metered all the pins on IC201 and IC202 and there is no shorts anywhere. Since my voltages are correct could it be that chip? I pulled the ZSUS and IC5 and IC7 are not shorted. When the ZSUS is plugged in, I get the proper incoming voltages and the ZBias is at 93v like the panel says it should be. Now I'm wondering if its the YSUS or ZSUS. I know the power supply is working fine.

[tom66]

Re: Lg 50pc3d Clicking noice from IC201

It is probably a Y-sustain fault. There are two IPMs on these sustains, an ER one and a SUS one. If the ER one goes, you can get clicking or flickering screen, if the SUS fails you typically get a shorted PSU or blown fuse.

[Alastair E]

Re: Lg 50pc3d Clicking noice from IC201

Pull the Z-SUS Vs supply fuse, re-try.

If you have a very dark and odd patchy coloured--but stable picture, Z-SUS ER IPM is most likely faulty, and the heatsink will be stone-cold. IPM type--YPPD-J015 or16C/E probably.

Check the voltage across the ER caps, (the row of dark red film caps on the 'sus' boards)--should be 90-130V (with fuse back in) on both the Y-SUS and Z-SUS.

IF you have dual-channel scope, monitor both Y-SUS and Z-SUS, the Z-SUS should be a square-wave, leading rising edge lining up with middle of Y-SUS-between the ramps.

--If it looks a bit like the Y-SUS wave, but flat-topped, Z-SUS IPM ER IGBTS are likely stuffed--New IPM or board needed.

Unfortunately--They dont always fail shorted, Some fail Open-Circuit, so no shorts will be found during testing.
--These sets run those IPM's pretty hard and hot--still they last average 15-20K hours--but no brand-new are available--only S/H, advise fit a quiet fan to direct air over the pair on each board when you're done.

[dcapper]

Re: Lg 50pc3d Clicking noice from IC201

Thanks! I have no scope but I'll meter those points tonight after work. I did pull the power plug on the ZSUS last night but the tv would turn on then off. Looks like all the boards are daisy changed. Power Supply to YSUS to ZSUS to Main Board. If I need a new SPI-50X3E120, is it safe to get them out of China? $10 out of China. $50 out of North America.

[dcapper]

Re: Lg 50pc3d Clicking noice from IC201

I tried to meter the brown caps. They are too close to the board to get a lead in, and nowhere to follow it. The ZSUS doesn't have a glass fuse to remove. There is 2 glass fuses on the YSUS though. How do I know which chip is which? Is IC201 my ER or SUS. 201 is the top one closest to where the power comes in from the mainboard. It's also the one that is clicking.

[dcapper]

Re: Lg 50pc3d Clicking noice from IC201

Does anyone know what the part numbers would be for IC201 and IC202 on the YSUS? The service manual I have doesn't have them listed.

[tw2005]

Re: Lg 50pc3d Clicking noice from IC201

Does anyone know what the part numbers would be for IC201 and IC202 on the YSUS? The service manual I have doesn't have them listed.

Is there not a white label along the side of the module itself?

[tw2005]

Re: Lg 50pc3d Clicking noice from IC201

YPPD-J015(A,B,C) , YPPD-J016(A,B,C) ? Apparently you need to match the revisions of these.

http://blog.coppelltvrepair.com/2010...on-screen.html

http://www.coppelltvrepair.com/p/99/...ard-repair-kit

[dcapper]

Re: Lg 50pc3d Clicking noice from IC201

YPPD-J015(A,B,C) , YPPD-J016(A,B,C) ? Apparently you need to match the revisions of these.

http://blog.coppelltvrepair.com/2010...on-screen.html

http://www.coppelltvrepair.com/p/99/...ard-repair-kit

Thank you. I guess I'll have to pull them both to get the numbers and letters. I'm thinking the top one (IC201) is bad since its the one clicking.

I read what Coppells said "1) TV flashing white screen about every second and a ticking sound can be heard (if you have good ears) from the YSUS board;" but they don't say which module it is.

[tw2005]

Re: Lg 50pc3d Clicking noice from IC201

don't know enough about them but replacing the pair is probably a good idea. Horrible job and i'm biased to the point that I don't think these are worth the time effort or money for the quality of picture they produce at least that's what i saw with the 50PX5D.

Good luck with it anyway, it'll be an experience for you. I'll never forget mine.

[dcapper]

Re: Lg 50pc3d Clicking noice from IC201

Thanks. The chips to replace are $90 but I can buy a used board on Ebay for around $100. Probably the better route. I just want to put the tv at the lake. Got the tv for almost nothing so it would be worth it in the long run. Did you get your working again?

[Alastair E]

Re: Lg 50pc3d Clicking noice from IC201

IF you are adventurous, and keeping the set for your own use--You could try replacing the IGBT's in the IPM....

This involves cutting out the 'die' devices and adding std. package parts to the heatsink, running wires then into the IPM module....

--I think there are 4 IGBT's in the J015/6 IPM's

I did this on the 42PC1D I have, --which is still going....

I have a 50" at work that I plan on doing the same to, This time--I'll take some pictures of whats done, I didn't bother with the 42, as it was more of an experiment that I was pretty sure wouldn't work...

[tw2005]

Re: Lg 50pc3d Clicking noice from IC201

Thanks. The chips to replace are $90 but I can buy a used board on Ebay for around $100. Probably the better route. I just want to put the tv at the lake. Got the tv for almost nothing so it would be worth it in the long run. Did you get your working again?

Yeah, I did 3 the same model, all needed IPMs. I had one where a bad ysus was smoking 2 SMD resistors on the Z. Got better at doing the modules but very agricultural. Had to track repair the first one, too much heat. Tried heatguns but the PCB started to delaminate before the solder even melted.

Ended up using a 80W iron and long strips of solder wick flooded with solder to heat enough pins to slowly get it out bit by bit.

I sold mine so for the effort not much made on them but satisfying to get them going.

Of course if you got it for nothing that helps make it a little more worthwhile.

[dcapper]

Re: Lg 50pc3d Clicking noice from IC201

I replaced the Y-SUS today and this is the picture I'm getting. Of course I am getting sound. Both heatsinks on both sustain boards are getting warm. TV turns off after 20 seconds. But when I unplug the ZSUS power the tv stays on. I'm getting proper voltages out of the power supply into the YSUS and out of the YSUS to the ZSUS too. Any ideas on this?

[tom66]

Re: Lg 50pc3d Clicking noice from IC201

Looks like you might also have a bad buffer board, but it is repairable. There are some surface mount FETs on them which can sometimes fail.

[dcapper]

Re: Lg 50pc3d Clicking noice from IC201

Hi Tom,

Are the buffer boards beside the YSUS? In the service manual they call them drivers. I replaced the top ydrv. There is a bdrv, xrlt, xrct, and xrrt. Are those the boards I'm looking at? You are always so helpful.

EDIT: Also when I unlpug the bottom boards from the YSUS the tv still stays on.

[tom66]

Re: Lg 50pc3d Clicking noice from IC201

Yeah the buffers are also known as the YDRV boards.

[dcapper]

Re: Lg 50pc3d Clicking noice from IC201

Wow, I need to read more. I kept reading thinking it was the ZSUS. I pulled the bottom driver and its the top of the top is working.

I just metered Q101, Q102, and Q103 on the blown board and they are all shorted.
Also D111, D112, D113 are too.

EDIT:

Pulled up the pins on Q103. All the shorts went away except for Q103. Going to replace it and see what happens.

Replaced Q103, still not working. I'm assuming IC104 is toast. Don't feel like replacing it, since I can buy a used board on ebay for $20.

[dcapper]

Re: Lg 50pc3d Clicking noice from IC201

Lower buffer board should be here this week. I'll update my findings.

[veikra]

Re: Lg 50pc3d Clicking noice from IC201

I have a 50pc3d-ue with a clicking ic201 and im unable to find a IPM to buy. shop jimmy and ebay

4921QP1047A-H is on the heatsink label.

Anyone knows where to get those now?