No picture on a Philips 42PFL7403D/27 and got stuck removing the T-Con board

[hhh]

I am trying to check the T-Con board for any visual defect in an attempt to revive a dead LCD TV. Both PS and SS boards showed no visual damage and they were easy to remove. The T-Con board though seems to be under a riveted subframe holding both PS and SS boards. Before proceeding to remove it all, I was wondering if there is an easier way to access it.(Shown on 1st picture)
No indication in the Service Manual for this TV set on how to remove the T-Con board. It is shown as an intrinsic part of the subframe or the LCD panel.

I spent some time trying to figure out what is wrong with the set and these are the symptoms:
When first plugged:
Relay click on PSB (Power Supply/Backlight Inverter 2300KEG031A-F, Ver 3.2)
Middle LED turns on (GREEN) on SSB (Main Board/SSB 313912363528V1 WK744.2) (Shown on 2nd picture)
Followed by another relay click on PSB then SSB Middle GREEN LED turns off

TV set non responsive to remote control
3v3 measured at jumpers J38 J27 and J37 (Jumpers Shown on 3th picture)

When tv power button is activated
Relay click on PSB
Middle SSB green LED turns on
3 seconds later top SSB green LED turns on followed by the backlight (Shown on 2nd picture)
8 seconds later a 60/120 HZ buzzing hum is heard coming from the PSB Side and the backlight intensity decreases and LCD remains dark.
If the menu button is depressed the buzz stops and the backlight intensity increases for approx 18 sec (until the menu call is off!)
3v3 measured at jumper J38
J27 and J37: 16 mv
J36 27v8
J35 and J34 14v2
J18 11v9 and
J33 0v5
On the SSB both LEDs remain on, steady green and the SSB CPU is hot to the touch.
Front LED on steady white and blinks when remote buttons or TV buttons are depressed.

I was first tempted to replace the PS board but after much reading and testing got confused.
Any hint as to where to look next or which particular component to test or replace?

[hhh]

Re: No picture on a Philips 42PFL7403D/27 and got stuck removing the T-Con board

Since no one dared to provide a single comment, I'm glad to report that I have found a way to reach n remove the T-Con board by removing few screws holding the top of the subframe.
Have found blown SMD 3A fast acting fuse on the T-Con. Tried to replace it first with a regular fuse and that has fried the PSB. Got both boards (used) on eBay, replaced them and I got the TV to work tonight. Buying used TV parts has its shortcome: I have to send back the first $19 T-Con board for it was sold defective (only generating a bunch of vertical colored lines). the second one, bought for $21 was good.