well Nothing 0.00 is exactly what is needed.!! should be the same as holding your probes together. Now do it with the switch off - pin 1 should still read 0.00 and pin 2 should read 1 on the left hand side or OL (what does it read)
correct oh and sorry about your meter.,its got to be the psu at fault then
Well I think we will start again with that.
I would still like to see 230 volts coming through to the board.
connect it all up and see again what happens - maybe the switch was just sticking and all the on off on off has fixed it. If the boards are still loose make sure they are noe touching anything conductive or each other where they shouldnt. If the power board is still loose just use that on it own.
Unless there is a huge short on the board and it blows the mains fuse it matters not whether the board works or not it should be still getting 230v.
Until we establish that it is we cannot look at fixing the board.
Problem is I dont know how much we can trust you not to blow it or yourself up. I would not have bothered with all that testing I would have a got a piece of mains cable - Thin stuff like for a lamp so its easy to work with.
Stick a mains plug on one end and solder the other end onto the back of the board where the blue and brown wires connect.
If I wanted to be a bit more careful ( in case the soldering pulls off) I would cut the blue and brown wires and solder the new mains cable to them ( they can be rejoined later.) They must of course be soldered well and insulated.
You must also connect positive to positive and neg to neg.
Doing this would cut out all problems with switch and connectors unless you were really unlucky and the connector on the board is fault.
Nothing dead ! I'm not disputing the switch isn't doing its job as we have tested and tested,got to be something simple on the psu
...but from previous tests we have established more than once that there is no continuity between the mains plug & the white mains connector block to the PSU board.
I have attached a diagram. Could you unplug the kettle lead from the TV. Unplug the white block connector from the PSU board. Switch the ON/OFF switch on the TV to ON. Then connect your meter to points B & B1, then B & B2, then B & B3. Could you then connect the meter to R & R1, then R & R2, then R & R3. Let us know the results.
The connectors on the white block connector that go to the PSU board are sockets, so make sure your probe actually touches the metal part.
I think it is worth another attempt at continuity before getting mains voltages involved. We know from one of the earlier tests that there is no continuity between the mains plug & the bridge diode on the PSU, although to be honest, it's getting hard to remember what's been tested & what hasn't.
I would like to thank all people for helping me out,the LCD set is off to another owner,with a bit of luck,I do have another set I'm having trouble with and did post up before so il set my time on that one lglc2db
I would like to thank all people for helping me out,the LCD set is off to another owner,with a bit of luck,I do have another set I'm having trouble with and did post up before so il set my time on that one lglc2db
If you find out from the other owner what the problem was, could you post back here. I would be very interested to find out what the fault was.
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