Re: Bush LCD37TV016HD
Funny enough i tried that whilst waiting for reply ! reading 0.00 nothing.
Funny enough i tried that whilst waiting for reply ! reading 0.00 nothing.
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Re: Bush LCD37TV016HD
also tried the brown and still the same,this is with the power on switch in the on position.Comment
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Re: Bush LCD37TV016HD
well Nothing 0.00 is exactly what is needed.!! should be the same as holding your probes together. Now do it with the switch off - pin 1 should still read 0.00 and pin 2 should read 1 on the left hand side or OL (what does it read)Please upload pictures using attachment function when ask for help on the repair
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=39740Comment
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Re: Bush LCD37TV016HD
This will make you laugh - just did the tug test on my meter and the probe came off
Please upload pictures using attachment function when ask for help on the repair
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=39740Comment
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Re: Bush LCD37TV016HD
correct oh and sorry about your meter.,its got to be the psu at fault thenComment
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Re: Bush LCD37TV016HD
Well I think we will start again with that.
I would still like to see 230 volts coming through to the board.
connect it all up and see again what happens - maybe the switch was just sticking and all the on off on off has fixed it. If the boards are still loose make sure they are noe touching anything conductive or each other where they shouldnt. If the power board is still loose just use that on it own.Please upload pictures using attachment function when ask for help on the repair
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=39740Comment
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Re: Bush LCD37TV016HD
Nothing dead ! I'm not disputing the switch isn't doing its job as we have tested and tested,got to be something simple on the psuComment
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Re: Bush LCD37TV016HD
Unless there is a huge short on the board and it blows the mains fuse it matters not whether the board works or not it should be still getting 230v.
Until we establish that it is we cannot look at fixing the board.
Problem is I dont know how much we can trust you not to blow it or yourself up. I would not have bothered with all that testing I would have a got a piece of mains cable - Thin stuff like for a lamp so its easy to work with.
Stick a mains plug on one end and solder the other end onto the back of the board where the blue and brown wires connect.
If I wanted to be a bit more careful ( in case the soldering pulls off) I would cut the blue and brown wires and solder the new mains cable to them ( they can be rejoined later.) They must of course be soldered well and insulated.
You must also connect positive to positive and neg to neg.
Doing this would cut out all problems with switch and connectors unless you were really unlucky and the connector on the board is fault.
Do you want to try that?Please upload pictures using attachment function when ask for help on the repair
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=39740Comment
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Re: Bush LCD37TV016HD
...but from previous tests we have established more than once that there is no continuity between the mains plug & the white mains connector block to the PSU board.
I have attached a diagram. Could you unplug the kettle lead from the TV. Unplug the white block connector from the PSU board. Switch the ON/OFF switch on the TV to ON. Then connect your meter to points B & B1, then B & B2, then B & B3. Could you then connect the meter to R & R1, then R & R2, then R & R3. Let us know the results.
The connectors on the white block connector that go to the PSU board are sockets, so make sure your probe actually touches the metal part.
I think it is worth another attempt at continuity before getting mains voltages involved. We know from one of the earlier tests that there is no continuity between the mains plug & the bridge diode on the PSU, although to be honest, it's getting hard to remember what's been tested & what hasn't.
Attached Files________________________________________________
Invisible airwaves crackle with lifeBright antennae bristle with the energy________________________________________________Comment
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Re: Bush LCD37TV016HD
I would like to thank all people for helping me out,the LCD set is off to another owner,with a bit of luck,I do have another set I'm having trouble with and did post up before so il set my time on that one lglc2dbComment
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Invisible airwaves crackle with lifeBright antennae bristle with the energy________________________________________________Comment
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Re: Bush LCD37TV016HD
Sorry for hi jacking the thread. But does anyone happen to have a schematic for the psu? Or know the values of RE1, RE2 and RE3?
many thanksComment
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Hi,
Trying to fix a bush TV. The Tcon is integrated onto the main board by the looks of it but before I buy a replacement does this look like a screen fault? The lines at the bottom are concerning me. I have check for shorts on the caps etc and can't see anything obvious. Nothing is overly hot and I've tried heating different boards and pressing down on the flex but no change in picture.
Any advice welcome. Thanks in advance.... -
Hello everyone. 😀
As per thread title, this unit has a serious SMPSU fault. It blows F1001, which is a 10A M205 in the phase from the mains input.
Very first thing I tried, was simply replacing the fuse, but the replacement ceramic fuse blew immediately.
Looking at the schematic for this PSU, I then removed what I thought was the next likely candidate: D1001 - the HV main bridge rectifier.
This isolated the fault(no longer blows the main fuse), but does not point me to the actual fault.
There are no devices that have exploded or otherwise show signs... -
- Prior owner tried a replacement main board. No difference.
- Samsung 2x red blinking standby LED = panel fault
- Jumpered FB_TRDY_1 (pin 1 CN1300 left. main tcon->left side buffer boards) and FB_TRDY_3 (pin 95 CN1301 right. main tcon->right side buffer boards) This allows testing individual T-Con (on main board) connection to panel on this Samsung. Found fault on left side (viewing from rear of TV)
- Each side has 2 buffer boards, disconnected left side flex between 2 buffer boards. Fault is on the left most board.
- Tape masking eventually isolated to CN1300 pin 15 (CKV4_GOA) Display
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I have been having a fun time at work with two pieces of equipment that had shorted components or shorted component cables to machine frame
I would check what my multi meter was telling me about how many ohms I getting with the multi meter was telling versus the ESR was telling me about weather or not it really was a short to machine ground or not
One note at first we thought that it might be a bad I/O card or a malfunction PLC including me as well but I thought I would try and see if removing the I/O cables would make a difference or not and this time it did make a difference... -
Hello Everyone,
I have an Onkyo TX-SR353 Audio/Video Receiver (5.1 ch with HDMI) that I am having a really hard time diagnosing and I'm about to throw this in the junk and go buy a new unit that is on sale until the 7th.
Symptoms:- Intermittent (part of the reason why i'm having a hard time isolating problem), sometimes will work for 10+h at a time without issue
- Original symptom was wife reported loud banging noise (like someone was banging on the wall with their fists) from the LEFT SURROUND speaker and then the unit shut off.
- I swapped the Left and Right surround
Comment