X-main was only £15 and £18 last two times I replaced one (both on a Samsung plasma!) Did you get it from ebay?
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Shopjimmy... Quick easy and free shipping in the states
They have good service and will usually restock for a small fee if doesn't fix it.
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Didn't work.... Ughh now 1/4 of the right side of the screen is all black. Rest is the same. Few vertical lines and all static. How can I find exactly what board is at fault? Will a volt meter be able to tell me?
To fully diagnose it you need an oscilloscope. Does the original board do something different?
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What you mean does it do something diff? I'm not sure cuz the screen still doesn't work. My only guesz would be maybe I damaged the middle board when I replaced the caps. Its a longshot but I guess ill try to replace that board? Not sure what to do now. Help....
What I'm trying to get at is there a difference in what the TV does between the new X-main and the old? Your post seems to indicate this.
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I saw that some people let the tv run and check the temp off the heat sinks on the x main and y main. Maybe its the y main? I dont even know anymore haha
I have never seen this symptom before so I'm pretty lost now . I'm pretty sure the main board is OK. I just don't know if it's the Y-main or control board, or even possibly the buffers. I'm leaning more towards the control board but the unevenness in the fault is making me think it's a Y-main fault. Since you have absolutely no image, but the screen is still lit up, I suspect the control board even more. But that's usually not a cheap part. Will Shopjimmy allow you to return the new X-main?
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It's not really useful enough with dark pictures. Y-mains always get hot because they scan the panel (with the buffer boards), discharge, erase and prepare it, as well as make it light up. All those other stages produce a lot of heat. X-mains only light up the panel, so with a darker image they don't get that hot. If you had a full white image then both would likely get hot.
Some control boards on Samsung plasmas have test modes you can access by connecting two pins. Can you see where the cable from the main board goes? There will be one going to the power supply and one going to the control board, typically. A thin flexible cable, usually.
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Yes which is nice but still confused what new one to get. Like you said I've looked and apparently the only one ever to come across this haha figures. I feel ill end up replacing everything before this works
Yes which is nice but still confused what new one to get. Like you said I've looked and apparently the only one ever to come across this haha figures. I feel ill end up replacing everything before this works
See my above post. If there's a test connector, you can determine if the control board is functional, or not.
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Yeah, the board on the right is your t-con/control board.
I was talking about the main board (which has the video inputs on it.) The multi-stranded cable goes to the t-con from it; I was wrong about it being flat flex, as this uses a different design.
Unfortunately, looks like the whole main board needs to come out to get access to it.
/bed time, 2.10 am here and have 11am lecture. See you tomorrow.
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OK, with the main board removed from the chassis, does the set still power on with the weird screen? If not, you will need to find a 100 ohm resistor to control the PS-ON. I see the jumper is present on this board which could be useful.
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