55" Samsung No Display

[tom66]

Re: 55" Samsung No Display

$45... Not bad

X-main was only £15 and £18 last two times I replaced one (both on a Samsung plasma!) Did you get it from ebay?

[Loozer]

Re: 55" Samsung No Display

$45... Not bad

[tom66]

Re: 55" Samsung No Display

I hope so too. How much did it cost?

[Loozer]

Re: 55" Samsung No Display

Finally ordered the new board today. Im praying this is the problem.

[Loozer]

Re: 55" Samsung No Display

Wow thanks man. Your wise beyond your years. Ill let you know how it goes (fingers crossed)

[tom66]

Re: 55" Samsung No Display

Alright thanks. Now just curious why that side and not the other?

It might not look like it from the outset but the boards are entirely different parts.

The Y assembly (including the Y-buffer boards and Y-main) on the left is responsible for the Scan electrodes -- essentially it addresses each line in the plasma panel one after another to "write" data to it through the bottom buffers. Then, it works with the X-main to make this stored image appear. It's also responsible for clearing the image so it doesn't get stuck on subsequent frames. (Failures are common with this part.) Bad Y-main = 90% of cases, no picture at all.

The X-main is a single board (no buffers usually) and it is responsible for providing the alternate sustain voltage on the Sustain electrodes. It's also responsible for making the picture light up fully, though you usually see some picture with a bad X-main, it's just very dim or fuzzy. Bad X-main = 50% of cases, you still get a dodgy picture.

Got this tv free and would be a nice save.

Ah, the well sought after "free" dumpster/out-on-the-curb TV. I've only had one and it was a nice tricky fix. Water damaged LCD, had to take it to bits and clean the light diffusers, but he gave me the remote and power cord too. Later gave it away at a very low price to a friend who needed one (upgrade from 19" LCD.) Then again, I also picked up a 42" LCD at the tip for £20, and it got me into the hobby, as it was a simple bad cap repair, and I realised how disposable people consider TVs.

[Loozer]

Re: 55" Samsung No Display

Alright thanks. Now just curious why that side and not the other? For future reference. Ill order a new one and pray. Got this tv free and would be a nice save. Thanks again. Your a life saver

[tom66]

Re: 55" Samsung No Display

Yep, that's the X-main. (BTW -- Z-sustain is LG terminology, it's X-main on a Samsung.)
There's some fuses on it, near the connector going to the PSU.

[Loozer]

Re: 55" Samsung No Display

Mine doesn't get any image at all but ill look into that. Now just to make sure were talking about the same board I took some pictures. This is the correct one right? Also a pic of everything for reference.

[Loozer]

Re: 55" Samsung No Display

Mine doesn't get any image at all but ill look into that. Now just to make sure were talking about the same board I took some pictures. This is the correct one right?

[tom66]

Re: 55" Samsung No Display

I have had a vaguely similar problem with a Samsung plasma -- it turned out to be the X-main:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bmu12mCOKcU

I didn't mention it in the video, but I too had some faded bars and dim light across the panel when viewed in a dark room. And the no signal appeared only after about five minutes. Only certain parts of the display registered any light output.

Luckily, the X-main (same as Z-sustain) was very cheap -- I believe less than £15. I got the TV for £50, so I was quite pleased that it was that simple (and later, it sold for £225.)

The X-main is the rightmost large board looking from the rear, connected to the panel via ribbons.

[Loozer]

Re: 55" Samsung No Display

None were actually "popped" but bulged upwards. And one leaked on the backside a lil. I cleaned the black residue thoroughly before I soldered the new one in. Its just wierd because now the screen does turn on but just no display whatsoever but that awful gray static . Do you know any ways to trace the problem? I won't get to try anything till late tonight but im all ears. Please help! Thx

[tom66]

Re: 55" Samsung No Display

Did the bulging caps have a plastic cover that was pressed outwards? Or could you see an actual vent?

[Loozer]

Re: 55" Samsung No Display

No I've done all that. Even unclipped all ribbons on t-con and carefully placed back and clipped down. As well as all the plugs. At this point I'm thinkin it has to be a faulty board and I'm okay ordering a new one its just im not sure which board is the problem. There were bulging caps for sure but on the power supply board. Would anything ive done caused this new problem or would these issues stem from tcon board and/or cables? I just want to be certain so I don't buy something I don't even need. Thank you again for the help sir

[tom66]

Re: 55" Samsung No Display

OK, those are good caps. Just worried you might have put poor quality ones in, it happens.

Since you get startup sound I suspect main board is OK, though it could be at fault it is less likely. Can you please re-seat all connectors on the main board especially the flexible cable going to the T-con PCB (for the plasma panel; if you need help locating it, post back.)

[Loozer]

Re: 55" Samsung No Display

Alright the two 500 v are - manufact (cornell dubilier) series- SLP..... The other is nichicon, series- GN. Hope that helps

[tom66]

Re: 55" Samsung No Display

Sorry, manufacturer of capacitor. E.g. Panasonic is "(M)", CapXon is "CapXon", etc. Post a picture of the cap if unsure showing the label clearly.

[Loozer]

Re: 55" Samsung No Display

Manufacturer as in Samsung? Series I have no clue but I did snap this picture before I left for work. I hope it helps. model is hp-s5053. If not on there where would I find out? Thsnks again.

[tom66]

Re: 55" Samsung No Display

Manufacturer and series?

There is no need to increase the voltage. (The Internet is wrong on this point.)

I don't know how you got a 500V capacitor. It's a very rare value. Most stop at 450V. That's the highest voltage needed.

[Loozer]

Re: 55" Samsung No Display

2 called for 270 uf 450 V and one 820 uf 250 V. I was told it was ok to increase the volts so they wouldnt blow again so the replacements were 2- 270 uf 500 V, and 820 uf 250 V. Im kind of a noob still so bare with me. Thanks!