This TV powers up normally if it has been unplugged for an hour or so. The TV will work for as long as you keep it on. After you turn it off it will not come back on. I have replaced the caps on the power board to no effect.
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Re: Jvc jlc32bc3000
Can you show us some pictures of the power supply? Do you have a digital multimeter?Please do not PM me with questions! Questions via PM will not be answered. Post on the forums instead!
For service manual, schematic, boardview (board view), datasheet, cad - use our search. -
Re: Jvc jlc32bc3000
I used photo bucket because the pics are big.
here is the power supply
http://i1199.photobucket.com/albums/...0/IMG_1935.jpg
Here is a better look at the connector
http://i1199.photobucket.com/albums/...0/IMG_1936.jpg
And here is the main board
http://i1199.photobucket.com/albums/...0/IMG_1937.jpgComment
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Re: Jvc jlc32bc3000
I do have a multimeter and if you tell me what you need I would be happy to test it. the TV has been unplugged sense yesterday so it might even come on.Comment
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Re: Jvc jlc32bc3000
What were the original caps -- were they similar to the brown colour of the main big cap? I think the caps you have used as replacements are possibly worse than the originals.
And wow, it looks like it might be a re-badged Vizio TV, given the AmTRAN main board.Please do not PM me with questions! Questions via PM will not be answered. Post on the forums instead!
For service manual, schematic, boardview (board view), datasheet, cad - use our search.Comment
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Re: Jvc jlc32bc3000
New caps look like Elite.Do NOT touch heatsinks when testing for voltages as they may be LIVE!Comment
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Re: Jvc jlc32bc3000
Yep, forget which thing i was looking at that had them.Do NOT touch heatsinks when testing for voltages as they may be LIVE!Comment
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Please do not PM me with questions! Questions via PM will not be answered. Post on the forums instead!
For service manual, schematic, boardview (board view), datasheet, cad - use our search.Comment
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Re: Jvc jlc32bc3000
Is sam young a make of caps?
http://www.shopjimmy.com/vizio-0500-...t-inverter.htm
Hover over to enlarge the caps.Do NOT touch heatsinks when testing for voltages as they may be LIVE!Comment
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Please do not PM me with questions! Questions via PM will not be answered. Post on the forums instead!
For service manual, schematic, boardview (board view), datasheet, cad - use our search.Comment
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Re: Jvc jlc32bc3000
So, were they the originals, or does shopjimmy upgrade them before selling on?Do NOT touch heatsinks when testing for voltages as they may be LIVE!Comment
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Do NOT touch heatsinks when testing for voltages as they may be LIVE!Comment
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Re: Jvc jlc32bc3000
No, it's pretty decent -- as long as it's not the rebadged stuff, which in the UK is Vestel and UMC. But they still make 40", 46" and 52" LCD/LED sets, entirely by themselves, and they have excellent caps in them and good build quality. Also their CRTs are well made, and were previously UK made.Please do not PM me with questions! Questions via PM will not be answered. Post on the forums instead!
For service manual, schematic, boardview (board view), datasheet, cad - use our search.Comment
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Re: Jvc jlc32bc3000
Decent brands should keep all there own stuff inside, like the philips tv i am fixing. Everything is philips inside. Even most ic chips have philips on them. It is 7-8 years old though.Do NOT touch heatsinks when testing for voltages as they may be LIVE!Comment
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Re: Jvc jlc32bc3000
Yeah, they should, but there's more money re-badging cheap tat. Thing is, this stuff will die a few years down the line, customers will be pissed, and never buy JVC/Toshiba/Sharp again (all rebadge some LCD models.)
I bet the other ICs have NXP on them, it was founded by Philips to take over their semiconductor division.Please do not PM me with questions! Questions via PM will not be answered. Post on the forums instead!
For service manual, schematic, boardview (board view), datasheet, cad - use our search.Comment
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Re: Jvc jlc32bc3000
alright thank you all it was good info. but the power dose not seem to be the problem. is it possible that the signaling circuit for power on/off is stuck in some way? if so where and how do I identify the offending part. also this is not the first time I have worked on an LCD this one just behaves strangely. and as for the caps I used (Lelon) I got the cheapest ones I can find, if I have to do it again later I will definitely ask here first.Last edited by Nam3o; 11-01-2012, 07:38 PM.Comment
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Re: Jvc jlc32bc3000
Never use the cheapest you can find. After a while on this forum i have come to the conclusion that if it doesn't say "Rubycon" "Nichicon" United chemicon" or "panasonic" on it then it could probably do with replacing with one of them brands.
Are the caps you used even low esr? The caps you replaced have probably aged, with them aging have most likely gone too high in esr and caused your problem, then you have replaced them with caps that have crap esr anyway so you are left with the same problem?Do NOT touch heatsinks when testing for voltages as they may be LIVE!Comment
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Re: Jvc jlc32bc3000
I would say the Chemicon and Samyoung were probably OK to start with. Cheap caps will be a problem in a year's time. PSU will work even with Radioshack caps, just not for long.
OP -- please test the Remote ON/OFF pin.
You should find that the ON/OFF pin changes voltage when you press the power button.
Check if it does this when in the faulty condition too.Please do not PM me with questions! Questions via PM will not be answered. Post on the forums instead!
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Hello all,
I'm stumped on this guy, so wanted to see if anyone has any further ideas:
Intro:
This is an Acer Nitro 5 AN515-55-55M1 with unknown prior history (bought "as-is" on eBay). It charges the battery and powers on from both AC adapter and battery, so I think this rules out main power issues.
Upon attempt to boot, it will "reboot" (meaning powers down and then powers on again) only once, and then stays stuck in a status of lights on / no post / no monitor. Powering on with fn+esc maxes out the fans on first boot attempt,... -
Powers on as normal shows an image then powers off after 10 seconds
I have to unplug it from the wall and replug to get it to turn back on but then shuts off
No blown caps
I searched for this model but nothing comes up...11-29-2024, 11:21 PM -
A few months out of warranty and it's dead as a fart. XPS 8950 with a 12th Gen I5, 32gb DDR5 RAM and a GTX1650 GPU.....
Symptoms it's giving are really making a coin toss between bad motherboard and bad PSU....I'm leaning toward motherboard, but there are some strange irregularities with this piece of shit system.
Basic test:
Upon connecting power cord, system powers on by itself (no button push) for a second then powers down...and then powers back on again, I hear a relay trip inside the PSU, and then powers down again and that's it. It won't do anything else.... -
Hi,
I am new to this forum and have searched for some answers with problems similar to mine.
Philips TV powers on as normal for about a minute or less then click and no power at all not even standby light. If i disconnect from mains and reconnect it will power on again but for a shorter time. Once i leave it disconnected from main for a longer time it will power on for a longer period the next time.
It sounds like a power supply issue?
I have the board out and want to run some tests. Not sure what i should be doing but i put a 1k resistor across SB and +5v... -
I am looking at an A2337 and found this for the order of power rails and what they do. Can this be confirmed before I dive into hunting down power rails that do not exist or are not neccisary?
- PPBUS_G3H (12.6V-12.8V)
- This is the main power rail that supplies power to the entire system. Check this rail first, as it must be present for other power rails to work.
- PP3V42_G3H (3.42V)
- This power rail is derived from PPBUS_G3H and is used to power the SMC (System Management Controller) and other essential circuits. It should be present if PPBUS_G3H is working correctly.
- PPVRTC_G3H (3.3V)
- This
- PPBUS_G3H (12.6V-12.8V)
Comment