Re: Samsung LE37A556P1F Flashing red light
It does not sound like you order the correct PCB assembly for this model!
By the way, I keep getting confuse between your original post and your pictures with the TECHAMP posting on your original post, I wish he will post on the new post instead so I can answering to the right person since they are not the same model, as you can see his main board picture does not have or use that small connector like your new board, but your old board uses/needs that small connector.
Samsung LE37A556P1F Flashing red light
Collapse
X
-
Re: Samsung LE37A556P1F Flashing red light
I actually ordered a second mainboard for this set which turned out to be a slightly different model.
It doesnt have the connector or the resistor attached which allows me to test if that pin connects to the collector through the resitor and it definitely does.Leave a comment:
-
-
Re: Samsung LE37A556P1F Flashing red light
Can you please post the picture without the marking so I can see if the trace is connected to the Collector pin ( middle pin the small 3-pin device) through the resistor?
ThanksLeave a comment:
-
-
Re: Samsung LE37A556P1F Flashing red light
While testing connector 1 with connector 2 and 3 plugged into the mainboard I get the following...
Adim = 0v
BL = 0.1v
"This is in the on state where if connector 1 was hooked up it would give me a completely blank picture.
With connector 1 and 3 connected I tested connector 2 on the mainboard.
BLU = 0.1v
Admin = 0v
PWM = 3.2v
Ta for the help with the pins this will help when I am do a little more testing tonight."
Well per your voltage measurement, you do not have the BL_ON feeding the power supply board which is fed into Connector2 by the main board, and this signal flows into connector 2 right through to connector 1 BL_ON pin which is then sent it out to the inverter board. You should be able to trace out this BL wire from power supply board back the main board connector.Last edited by budm; 02-29-2012, 03:29 PM.Leave a comment:
-
Re: Samsung LE37A556P1F Flashing red light
Forgot to bring home my camera!
Thought I would list the pins on Connector 3.
1 P8
2 N/C
3 S8
4 GND
5 GND
6 GND
7 12.5v
8 12.5v
9 GND
10 GND
11 GND
12 GND
13 5.3v
14 5.3v
15 5.3v
16 5.3v
17 GND
18 GND
19 12v
20 GND
21 12v
22 12v
23 N/C
24 N/C
Whats the best way of testing these pins? I have tried to do it on the power board with the cable not connected to the mainboard but i cannot read anything. I assume that the power board knows that the cable is not connected?
With only Connector 3 connected the mainboard is getting power as I can measure voltage across some of the Ic's I will write my finding down shortly.Leave a comment:
-
Re: Samsung LE37M86BD wont turn the screen!
http://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datashe...P2804ND5G.html
Refer to the diagram for pinouts.
2) Measure the resistance between S1-G1, S1-D1, D1-G1, S2-G2, S2-D2, D2-G2 for all chips. You can do this in circuit and report all readings. Any reading under 30 ohms suggest the mosfet might be shorted and warrants desoldering and verifying the reading out of circuit.
3) PS. Since you are getting sound, the power LED on, and a brief flash of backlight, this narrows down the problem to the inverter board.Leave a comment:
-
Re: Samsung LE37A556P1F Flashing red light
Thank U for your patience.Leave a comment:
-
Re: Samsung LE37M86BD wont turn the screen!
Try shining a flashlight on it. didn't help.. Is there sound? Yes
2) Circled in red are some ICs. What is the part number?
P2804ND5G, N- & P-Channel Trans.
3) circled in yellow are SMD fuses. 3A/32V, all are OK
Is it a good idea if I disconnect all inverter channels by disoldering those 3A fuses, and test only one ch. at a time?
On PSU board, there is no pulses at " PMW & ADIM". Is that normal. There are no pulses at all on the Inverter board, when the TV is ON!
I made & noted down som measurements on the boards for your info!Leave a comment:
-
Re: Samsung LE37A556P1F Flashing red light
I have had a snoop about and it doesn't look like the eeprom is a problem on that series, from what I can glean the eeprom is capable of automatically resetting itself. Looks likes it's only a problem on previous years units.Leave a comment:
-
Re: Samsung LE37A556P1F Flashing red light
Connector 1 these signals go to the Inverter board
The ADIM, BL signals are passed through from Connector 2 which connected to the main board.
NC - N/A
ADIM? - Untested: Backlights dimming voltage (0=min, 5v = max brightness)
BL - Untested: Backlights on
NC - N/A
GND - Tested OK
GND - Tested OK
GND - Tested OK
GND - Tested OK
GND - Tested OK
24V - Tested OK
24V - Tested OK
24V - Tested OK
24V - Tested OK
24V - Tested OK
Connector 2 Left to right
BLU - Untested: Backlights ON signal from the main board (3.3~5v = ON)
Adim - Untested: This pin gets the 0~5vdc Dimming control signal from Main board
PWM - Untested: This pin is not used, it is the Pulse Width Modulation signal (another method of Dimming the backlights) from the main board for Dimming control, is not used on this set.
GND - Tested OK
+5v - Tested OK: 5Vdc to the main board
So you need to have the BL 3.3~5VDC on this pin for the Inverter to come on, you already have the 24vdc, you just do not have the ON signal per your post.
Adim = 0v
BL = 0.1v
This is in the on state where if connector 1 was hooked up it would give me a completely blank picture.
With connector 1 and 3 connected I tested connector 2 on the mainboard.
BLU = 0.1v
Admin = 0v
PWM = 3.2v
Ta for the help with the pins this will help when I am do a little more testing tonight.Leave a comment:
-
Re: Samsung LE37A556P1F Flashing red light
We prefer the actual readings. I have no idea of your background and/or level of knowledge so "OK" means nothing.
If you wrote instead
24V - measured 24.01V
then, I would agree the voltage is OK.
PS. We want pictures of your board, not some stock photo. A stock photo does not show hot spots, glue turned conductive, burnt resistors, etc.
24V - 24.3v
24V - 24.3v
24V - 24.3v
24V - 24.3v
24V - 24.3v
I will sort out some better pictures when I return home from work. I used those stock photos just to see if there was anything thing that could be tested whilst I had the day off twiddling my thumbs
Cheers for your help.Leave a comment:
-
Re: Samsung LE37A556P1F Flashing red light
My response is to Jasgriff. Why has TechAMP ambushed Jasgriffs thread, lol.
Sounds like you might have a corrupted eeprom on the mainboard. Was it caps on the power supply that you replaced? I know with the LE40R88BD series that this is quite common (seen it myself) where after replacing the capacitors on the power supply the eeprom is corrupted on the mainboard the first time you boot the T.V. All that said, I am not sure if this will apply to your model but it can't do any harm to look into it.
I changed all of the capacitors on the cold side of the board and it came on a couple of times for a few seconds then straight off sometimes you could hear a high pitched noise or scream coming from the mainboard by the sound of it.
When I get back from work I will start to check the mainboard I will also take some good pics of it so that you can point me in the right direction of what to check.
Ta for your help.Leave a comment:
-
Re: Samsung LE37A556P1F Flashing red light
Connector 1 these signals go to the Inverter board
The ADIM, BL signals are passed through from Connector 2 which connected to the main board.
NC - N/A
ADIM? - Untested: Backlights dimming voltage (0=min, 5v = max brightness)
BL - Untested: Backlights on
NC - N/A
GND - Tested OK
GND - Tested OK
GND - Tested OK
GND - Tested OK
GND - Tested OK
24V - Tested OK
24V - Tested OK
24V - Tested OK
24V - Tested OK
24V - Tested OK
Connector 2 Left to right
BLU - Untested: Backlights ON signal from the main board (3.3~5v = ON)
Adim - Untested: This pin gets the 0~5vdc Dimming control signal from Main board
PWM - Untested: This pin is not used, it is the Pulse Width Modulation signal (another method of Dimming the backlights) from the main board for Dimming control, is not used on this set.
GND - Tested OK
+5v - Tested OK: 5Vdc to the main board
So you need to have the BL 3.3~5VDC on this pin for the Inverter to come on, you already have the 24vdc, you just do not have the ON signal per your post.Last edited by budm; 02-29-2012, 12:11 AM.Leave a comment:
-
Re: Samsung LE37A556P1F Flashing red light
If you wrote instead
24V - measured 24.01V
then, I would agree the voltage is OK.
PS. We want pictures of your board, not some stock photo. A stock photo does not show hot spots, glue turned conductive, burnt resistors, etc.Leave a comment:
-
Re: Samsung LE37A556P1F Flashing red light
2) Circled in red are some ICs. What is the part number?
3) The pics are good, but resolution is a bit small on the inverter board. I circled what I think are SMD fuses. A fuse should be marked as something like F100 on the pcb.
A single blown fuse could be causing the backlight not to come on. Check them with your multimeter. A good fuse should measure less than 1.0 ohms.Leave a comment:
-
Re: Samsung LE37A556P1F Flashing red light
My response is to Jasgriff. Why has TechAMP ambushed Jasgriffs thread, lol.
Sounds like you might have a corrupted eeprom on the mainboard. Was it caps on the power supply that you replaced? I know with the LE40R88BD series that this is quite common (seen it myself) where after replacing the capacitors on the power supply the eeprom is corrupted on the mainboard the first time you boot the T.V. All that said, I am not sure if this will apply to your model but it can't do any harm to look into it.Leave a comment:
-
Re: Samsung LE37A556P1F Flashing red light
Just tried taking the connectors off and reconnecting them nice and secure but there is still no sound.Leave a comment:
-
Re: Samsung LE37A556P1F Flashing red light
Do you have sound when the TV is turned on?
Have you got all the inverter power cables properly secured; including the cable that is sometimes present going from T-con to power supply?Leave a comment:
Related Topics
Collapse
-
by learnmoreHello Community!
CASE DETAILS
Promblem Signs: Backlight on 1 sec off 7sec > repeat && Red standby light: 1blink, off 3 sec, 2 blinks, off 5 secs, 2 blinks, off 3 sec, restart cycle
13V present on powerboard output. Backlight continues flashing after removing cables to pannel one at a time and even with both disconnected. NOTE: backlight STOPs flashing and remains on when connector between powerboard and mainboard (note Tcon built in) is disconnected.
Tried inserting firmware on USB and left it in for a few hours, but no change
... -
This specification for the Samsung Galaxy Book 2 Notebook can be useful for upgrading or repairing a laptop that is not working. As a community we are working through our specifications to add valuable data like the Galaxy Book 2 boardview and Galaxy Book 2 schematic. Our users have donated over 1 million documents which are being added to the site. This page will be updated soon with additional information. Alternatively you can request additional help from our users directly on the relevant badcaps forum. Please note that we offer no warranties that any specification, datasheet, or download...09-07-2024, 05:50 AM
-
by Phil289Hi
I aquired a Samsung UE46EH5000 from a lady that said it was turning on and off so she just purchased a new one.
On plugging into the mains and turning on i get a solid red light.
On using the on/off button or remote i just get a flashing red light in a pattern of flash/flash gap flash/flash gap flash/flash etc.
Opened it up and disconnected the main board from the power board by removing the connecting ribbon cable with the hope of getting either a 'no backlight' or a 'working backlight' but got neither,i just got a blinking backlight that turned on and off randomly... -
by esqmoooHello everyone.
This is my development machine. I've been using it since two years and half without any problem except sometimes it wouldn't wake up from sleep.
Lately the issue became more frequent and powering it up would take few seconds to show the POST screen.
Then the computer refuses to power on at all. Now only the caps lock button flashes 7 times then stops. The charging light is always on whenever a power source is connected (battery or charger).
I tried long pressing on the power button, after several seconds it would go off then when the button is released... -
by JackchingI know for sure it has a bad cap and one cold solder joint. Just wondering before i order the Caps if anyone has any experience with this model? Just making sure there isnt a common component that goes bad besides the caps....
- Loading...
- No more items.
Leave a comment: