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Mitsubishi WS-65611 dead

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    Mitsubishi WS-65611 dead

    Here is one for you, old school CRT projection.

    Ive fixed alot of mitsus with horiz failure, vert failure, definately convergence failure and DM module failure.

    This one is throwing me off...

    i pulled the DM anyway to check the 4 bad caps that usually happens, well the DM module was a whole different setup. not even close to being the same as the typical one. and the DM had its own seperate power supply with 7 caps. all of them replaced with rubycon at one point in time.

    So I put the DM back in. Plugged it in, it blinks for about 30 seconds or so. then the LED goes out. like normal, and its ready for power on.

    Well its dead. nothing happens after the light stops flashing. no power, no click, dead. nothing from the remote or front panel.

    Standby voltages are present, and I did a diagnostic code check, the LED blinked code 12, no faults found.

    hmmmm... finds no faults, but the thing wont even attempt to fire up. just fires up in standby thats it. Usually when you hit power, the green light comes on and you hear the relay click over in the power supply module. But it doesnt. its like it goes braindead after the DM boots up.

    First time i saw a mits do this. Any ideas?

    #2
    Re: Mitsubishi WS-65611 dead

    I'm not a tv guy but have you tested to make sure your switch is actually good? If the tv is good I would test switch at back of board then move on to jump switch connection at tv board itself.

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      #3
      Re: Mitsubishi WS-65611 dead

      ummm.... there is no "switch"

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        #4
        Re: Mitsubishi WS-65611 dead

        There's no board which your push button power button connects to? I may be mistaken but I'm pretty sure this is still considered a microswitch or a momentary contactor. Whatever you want to call it. I've had these go out on laptops and computers as well. You should be able to put your multimeter on the back solder connections (making sure it's unplugged of course) and depress the power button and make sre the circuit is completed. Like I said I'm not a tv guy but it was just a simple suggestion and I've found lots of people don't try the simple thing first. Also since you're not familiar with the board you said all capacitors have been changed. Were they installed with proper polarity?

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          #5
          Re: Mitsubishi WS-65611 dead

          Originally posted by Webwaster View Post
          There's no board which your push button power button connects to? I may be mistaken but I'm pretty sure this is still considered a microswitch or a momentary contactor. Whatever you want to call it. I've had these go out on laptops and computers as well. You should be able to put your multimeter on the back solder connections (making sure it's unplugged of course) and depress the power button and make sre the circuit is completed. Like I said I'm not a tv guy but it was just a simple suggestion and I've found lots of people don't try the simple thing first. Also since you're not familiar with the board you said all capacitors have been changed. Were they installed with proper polarity?
          Allow me to enlighten you. Some TVs do not have a hard-wired Power button. I have two of them - an LG plasma and a Mitsibushi DLP.

          PlainBill
          For a number of reasons, both health and personal, I will no longer be active on this board. Any PMs asking for assistance will be ignored.

          Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark. Professionals built the Titanic.

          Comment


            #6
            Re: Mitsubishi WS-65611 dead

            Well, if you refer to that as a switch, the switch is fine. Plus it doesnt respond via IR either....

            Ive got a bigger problem now anyway. trying to hunt down a compatible blue tube. i wasnt being too cautious when i was moving the lightbox around on the bench, I necked the blue tube.

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              #7
              Re: Mitsubishi WS-65611 dead

              Update:

              The Micro has 2 inputs for the front panel button switches.

              1 of them is power, it was staying constant 4.97v and falling when pressing power button.

              but for some reason, the second sense input was hanging slightly low at 4.62v. Concludes that there is a slightly leaky tact/button somewhere in the front panel. so i cleaned all of them out and it rose back up to 4.97v

              After this, pressing power and the set now responds. go figure.... guess your hunch was right.

              Oh and i found a blue tube to replace the one in it. that was another adventure. Lets put it this way, they make water based glycol and oil based glycol coolant. apparently. But ill save that story for another time.

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