Element FLX-3211B no picture

[junktv]

Re: Element FLX-3211B no picture

Ouch!

I've seen this design of TV before. I've got a very similar design in my shed. (A Bush TV.) I think it's a Proview design ; just another bulk import from China.

Let me guess - pulling the plastic case off is a nightmare? I couldn't get it off. Luckily my problem was in the power supply area, and that's in a "convenient" sliding tray. I don't think I've ever seen a design like this before (and that's not a complement to the designers.)

Speaking of bad design, the metal casing around the power supply and main board is a really bad idea, and I'm frankly not sure why they ever did that. All it does is cook the power supply and main board leading to a high failure rate.

Anyway, on my set you can just about see a board on the left hand side of the TV, through the casing; that's the inverter. Unfortunately, you're going to need to get the plastic casing off to get to it.

0.04 kohms is normal for the main switching transformers. 1kohm - 10kohm is what you expect for inverters.

On this one the only boards are the ones you can see and the one under the plate in the last pic. Other than that all that is under the cover is the lcd panel, a board the buttons are on, 2 speakers and a big chunk of cast aluminum that supports the mount.

What tv are you comparing it to? This is a proview design.
I was given a sharp of the same size that was around $3000 new with about 10 boards and a seperate controller box. Now that is complicated to me. It even had fans but lived a short life. With this element i had thought about fans and if i get it working might add one at the top to draw but the way it is it pulls fresh air in the bottom over the logic board? and out the top by thermal draw.Think heat pipe.
For whatever reason it did not heat up like normal this time when i tried it after putting the panasonics in. So either the lamps are the source of the heat or the source isn't getting power. It usually puts out 130°F out the top.

[tom66]

Re: Element FLX-3211B no picture

On this one the only boards are the ones you can see and the one under the plate in the last pic. Other than that all that is under the cover is the lcd panel, a board the buttons are on, 2 speakers and a big chunk of cast aluminum that supports the mount.

What tv are you comparing it to? This is a proview design.
I was given a sharp of the same size that was around $3000 new with about 10 boards and a seperate controller box. Now that is complicated to me. It even had fans but lived a short life. With this element i had thought about fans and if i get it working might add one at the top to draw but the way it is it pulls fresh air in the bottom over the logic board? and out the top by thermal draw.Think heat pipe.
For whatever reason it did not heat up like normal this time when i tried it after putting the panasonics in. So either the lamps are the source of the heat or the source isn't getting power. It usually puts out 130°F out the top.

Yeah my Bush TV (I am repairing it) is a Proview TV inside.

Anyway, as I was saying there is an inverter on the left hand side of the TV, but it's buried under the plastic case. If you look carefully, you'll probably see a board under there. Are you able to get the back plastic cover off so you can access the panel area?

The lamps produce the majority of the heat and use up about 90% of the power in a modern LCD CCFL TV. They produce a great deal of heat in doing so.

There isn't a need to add a fan, very few modern LCD TVs use one. Everything is convection cooled. Hot air rises. I think for cooling, you should try cutting a hole in the top of that metal cage which blocks most of the air flow.

You can use a fan if you see fit, but it will only add to the noise and probably won't improve the cooling much.

[junktv]

Re: Element FLX-3211B no picture

Yeah my Bush TV (I am repairing it) is a Proview TV inside.

Anyway, as I was saying there is an inverter on the left hand side of the TV, but it's buried under the plastic case. If you look carefully, you'll probably see a board under there. Are you able to get the back plastic cover off so you can access the panel area?

The lamps produce the majority of the heat and use up about 90% of the power in a modern LCD CCFL TV. They produce a great deal of heat in doing so.

There isn't a need to add a fan, very few modern LCD TVs use one. Everything is convection cooled. Hot air rises. I think for cooling, you should try cutting a hole in the top of that metal cage which blocks most of the air flow.

You can use a fan if you see fit, but it will only add to the noise and probably won't improve the cooling much.

There is no board on the left. Here i popped the case off real quick even though i didn't want to because it might cause other connection problems. It's some pics for the site though.

Here is what is below the panel at the top.

The case really is perforated well with more on top and bottom that you can't see. As for noise the other dozen and a half pc fans spinning in here would drown out one lowly fan.

[tom66]

Re: Element FLX-3211B no picture

Well, this has me baffled?

I'm guessing the two white cables go to the inverter but I've never seen a complete shield over it.

If you can remove the shield, you should find an inverter and the LCD panel. The panel itself is encased in a metal shield; it comes as a full assembly with inverter, bulbs and display surface.

Is this an LCD CCFL TV or an LCD LED TV?

[junktv]

Re: Element FLX-3211B no picture

It's a element FLX-3211B purchased 4/08 from circuit city not long before they went tits up. It is very similar to the polaroids but even cheaper and share the same chassis with similar boards. I do see walmart is selling this brand now.

I'd say ccfl since it is cheap and leds were just showing up.

I'm hoping some others have some insight into my problem before i go pulling anything else apart. I've fixed this once and a couple lcds thanks to this forum but i haven't pulled a screen apart yet. If i must and it works again pulling the panel apart would be good since it wasn't sealed very well at the factory and has gotten dust in the screen layers.

[cashkennedy]

Re: Element FLX-3211B no picture

I tried to help yall by looking what boards are for sale on Ebay, and it looks like the element is basically the same as a polaroid.

The wierd thing is the flx-3210 and 3211 have the same power supply board in many listings, but there is 1 listing for an inverter board for the flx-3210 that has a normal multi wire connector (red and black wires so on) running to it, but that wire doesnt seem to exist in either of these televisions.

Just from the pictures of the tv, I would assume that they decided to make the powersupply board also the inverter, because i dont think they would have run white wires to the inverter board, because the transformer would need a ground and voltage wire, vs 2 ambigous white wires that are very thick like the wires that usually run to the bulb.

I guess the clear way to see if tom66's tv is the same is does tom's tv have 2 white wires going to the inverter board from the PSU, or does it have red and black normal connector running to it.

[tom66]

Re: Element FLX-3211B no picture

I guess the clear way to see if tom66's tv is the same is does tom's tv have 2 white wires going to the inverter board from the PSU, or does it have red and black normal connector running to it.

Red and black connector very similar to a PC power supply connector. Carries 24V, GND and 5V to the inverter.

[junktv]

Re: Element FLX-3211B no picture

Well reading through other threads and i think the one that brought me to the forum originaly actually. It seems lucky19 was having similar issues with this board and post a fix on post #83 of this thread.https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showth...element&page=3

Originally Posted by LUCKY19
Yeay I fix my tv, polaroid TDA-03211C (powerboard ipos 150 rev 1.8 Proview) -Had audio but no pic and a red Led light blinking it the back.
For reference of how I fixed it I replaced
2 10uf 450v Capacitors (EC17, EC18)
2 FQPF9N50CF Transistors (Q16,Q17)
and a 3.15 amp fuse (F2)
(thank you Dansford, PlainBill, and retiredcaps)

Going to have to look some more and see if i can't find specific ways to test these components.

[cashkennedy]

Re: Element FLX-3211B no picture

Well it looks like the inverter is part of the power board in this tv, and its a little different then the one tom was working on.

That post by lucky 19 looks like exactly what you need to do, or buy a fixed board on ebay since there are lots of them listed.

You can test the fuse and transistors with a multimeter. The capacitors are more complicated, and youd be best to first check if they are noticeably buldging now you know which ones might be at fault.

To test the transistors and fuse, set your multimeter to 200ohm resistance measurements and then put the red and black lead on opposite sides of the fues and you should get 0 resistance. To test the transistors use the same 200ohm resistance setting and test all pins 1-2, 1-3, 2-1, 2-3, 3-1, 3-2 (all possible combinations and orders), and you should have over 200 ohm resistance (no reading), on all possible combinations, otherwise its probably bad.

[junktv]

Re: Element FLX-3211B no picture

Took all these readings with components on the board.
The F2 fuse is out of range @200. It is about 3.5x11.5mm with the shrink tube off and says 3.15A 250V on one end and all i can make out on the other is PBU.

The Q16 & Q17 transistors read from 00.8-02.2 on the 200 setting. They have FQPF over 9N50CF on them.

The D10 diode reads 427-432 one way and out of range the other on the diode setting. The diode appears to have J719 above something R303 on it. May be a E or S in front of the R.

I guess i'll at least need 2 FQPF9N50CF and 1 08773.15MXEP from mouser.
Do you think the 2 caps I just put in are still good and will survive being pulled and put back in?

[junktv]

Re: Element FLX-3211B no picture

So do you guys think that is all i'll need or should I run more test? I'd like to order this stuff so maybe i can get it by this weekend and would hate to have to pay the 7$ shipping twice.

The new problem starts at post #13 in this thread.

[junktv]

Re: Element FLX-3211B no picture

Well another successful fix by replacing the 2 FQPF9N50CF transistors and 1 08773.15MXEP fuse(had already put new caps in). The fuse is a little smaller in size than what was in there. Maybe a 4x12-13mm would be actual size. After testing the new transistors mine were definitely bad.

Anyone see a danger or downside in leaving the metal cover off the back and only using the plastic cover? With the plastic cover it's fully protected from fingers or anything just not as protected if it sparks.

[mariushm]

Re: Element FLX-3211B no picture

The metal casing may also be an EMI shield ... aka electro magnetic interference.

Probably won't affect you unless you have some radios around or some other sensitive equipment..

See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electro...c_interference

[steven483]

Re: Element FLX-3211B no picture

is it possible to replace the ribbon cables at the top of the TV that come from the T board to the TV

[lookimback]

Re: Element FLX-3211B no picture

Just to add to what's already here, I just had one of these which I'd fixed and sold a couple months ago come back. Previously I'd replaced the two 10µf 450v caps and the big PFC cap. It came back with an intermittent problem where it would work for about five to ten minutes then flicker and lose the backlights. I found the problem to be one of the ceramic disk capacitors (C45) on the output side of the inverter transformers. I'd add C44, C45, and C47 to the list of parts to check when there's sound but no backlights.