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Help needed with fried SWMPS - RING RSC612/RESC612

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    Help needed with fried SWMPS - RING RSC612/RESC612

    Hello everyone.

    Just got from ebay a dead ( *almost ) smart auto-battery charger. It turned out that the mains part of the SWMPS is fried.
    It looks like there has been an arc between NTR1, C6, JP24 and the resistor near them. Part of the jumper wire has been evaporated.
    The resistor goes to leg3 of the optocoupler O3 ( which seems to be dead open on that side ).
    On the other side of the board, there is a hole in the optocoupler path to the resistor, most likely caused by an arc between it and the nearby leg of C10.
    Also there is an exploded transistor(?) marked N5.
    The pcb lacquer over the path next to the main positive rail fell when I was using the pen.
    So far I have found the following parts to be dead:
    F1, on the input, right next to C1
    D3 - one of the diodes to the negative rail has shorted
    O3 - open on the transistor side
    Z3 - shorted
    N5

    The charger is RING RSC612/RESC612
    The board is WYH6859J-A6.PCB
    The main SWMPS IC is UC3842B with UCS3842B
    The secondary/standby SWMPS is RCP 36R DB(?)

    So any schematics will be appreciated.. or at least any ideas with what to substitute the exploded N5... also, which other components are very likely to have lost their magic smoke?
    Thanks in advance.

    *almost dead, because the smart part should have some functionality when a battery is connected ( TEST mode ).. at least according to the seller.
    Attached Files
    Last edited by SMDFlea; 06-22-2021, 06:42 AM. Reason: RING RSC612/RESC612

    #2
    Re: Help needed with fried SWMPS

    How about the power MOSFET mounted on the big heastink in the HOT side,?
    Did you test to find out if the MOSFET is shorted?
    MOSFET Q3 for 12V1A power supply section tested OK?
    Please also provides the top and bottom pictures of the board without your making on them?
    Photo Transistor in the opto should show open circuit, it will not be turned on unless you drive the LED side on.
    Last edited by budm; 07-26-2020, 07:03 PM.
    Never stop learning
    Basic LCD TV and Monitor troubleshooting guides.
    http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...956#post305956

    Voltage Regulator (LDO) testing:
    http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...999#post300999

    Inverter testing using old CFL:
    http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...er+testing+cfl

    Tear down pictures : Hit the ">" Show Albums and stories" on the left side
    http://s807.photobucket.com/user/budm/library/

    TV Factory reset codes listing:
    http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=24809

    Comment


      #3
      Re: Help needed with fried SWMPS

      Tested both ( primary and secondary ) transistors in circuit on diode mode and they are not shorted. Once I start replacing components, I might test them out of the circuit.

      Comment


        #4
        Re: Help needed with fried SWMPS

        I just updated my post #2.
        Never stop learning
        Basic LCD TV and Monitor troubleshooting guides.
        http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...956#post305956

        Voltage Regulator (LDO) testing:
        http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...999#post300999

        Inverter testing using old CFL:
        http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...er+testing+cfl

        Tear down pictures : Hit the ">" Show Albums and stories" on the left side
        http://s807.photobucket.com/user/budm/library/

        TV Factory reset codes listing:
        http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=24809

        Comment


          #5
          Re: Help needed with fried SWMPS

          The main mosfet and q3 seem to be fine - no shorts and the expected voltage drops.
          On the other two optos I get a voltage drop in one direction, so expected to see the same here.. but that could just be something else in the circuit. I guess I wrote it off as soon as I saw the burn hole on its path and the burnt resistor ( which still shows some resistance, will have to compare it to its color code tho ). Probably testing it with voltage on the other side will not hurt and might save some work.

          Let me know what photos you need and will make them. For now I have uploaded 4 - top and bottom of the whole board and top and bottom of the hot part ( free of markings ).

          Comment


            #6
            Re: Help needed with fried SWMPS

            https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...4&d=1595803171
            Where do you see the board number?
            "The board is WYH6859J-A6.PCB"
            I see the prints on the board showing the name 'CENTURY' and above that there are two lines of printed numbers and letter but I cannot see them clearly.
            Never stop learning
            Basic LCD TV and Monitor troubleshooting guides.
            http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...956#post305956

            Voltage Regulator (LDO) testing:
            http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...999#post300999

            Inverter testing using old CFL:
            http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...er+testing+cfl

            Tear down pictures : Hit the ">" Show Albums and stories" on the left side
            http://s807.photobucket.com/user/budm/library/

            TV Factory reset codes listing:
            http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=24809

            Comment


              #7
              Re: Help needed with fried SWMPS

              There you go.
              Attached Files

              Comment


                #8
                Re: Help needed with fried SWMPS

                So did some more tests today - no other resistors or diodes seem to have failed.
                The SMPS ICs also have no shorted pins.

                The exploded transistor(?) seems to belong to the start current circuit of the secondary/standby swmps and probably the primary.
                There are few other components labeled "N#" ( all on the secondary side of power supply ) and they are marked as:
                1x
                BV
                51
                ( bigger than the others and with 4 pins )
                3x
                K1P
                F8
                (the same physical size as the exploded one )

                For K1P google returned MMBT2222A NPN transistor.
                What do you think.. does one of those fit in the schematics for the exploded N5?


                If we count the legs of N5 as:
                ---1---
                -2---3-

                leg 3 goes to the primary ground rail
                leg 2 goes to the opto and then through a resistor to the primary ground
                leg 1 - through a couple of resistors ( ~110K which might vary due to Q9 ) to the "startup/aux rail"

                K1P pinout is:

                ---c---
                -b---e-

                Comment


                  #9
                  Re: Help needed with fried SWMPS

                  2N2222 NPN should be OK for N5.
                  I am still surprised that the MOSFET's did not shorted out and cause the 3A Fuse to blow when 230VAC arc over to the jumper.
                  See the attached picture that I marked up the connection.
                  Attached Files
                  Never stop learning
                  Basic LCD TV and Monitor troubleshooting guides.
                  http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...956#post305956

                  Voltage Regulator (LDO) testing:
                  http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...999#post300999

                  Inverter testing using old CFL:
                  http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...er+testing+cfl

                  Tear down pictures : Hit the ">" Show Albums and stories" on the left side
                  http://s807.photobucket.com/user/budm/library/

                  TV Factory reset codes listing:
                  http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=24809

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Re: Help needed with fried SWMPS

                    Thank you, budm.
                    Just checked again - no shorts on both mosfets. I guess the majority of the power was contained between the 3 ( or probably 4 ) arced components. By the way, what would be your best guess about the cause for this?
                    Which component failed first? Could it be the short where the burn hole on the path to the opto is.. or probably the rectifier?
                    Attached Files
                    Last edited by madan1; 07-28-2020, 05:51 PM.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Re: Help needed with fried SWMPS

                      I really do not know but it has to be pretty large amount flows through that jumper wire to make it melts like, that why I am surprised that more traces are not blown when jumper wire which is bigger conductor than copper traces.
                      Never stop learning
                      Basic LCD TV and Monitor troubleshooting guides.
                      http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...956#post305956

                      Voltage Regulator (LDO) testing:
                      http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...999#post300999

                      Inverter testing using old CFL:
                      http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...er+testing+cfl

                      Tear down pictures : Hit the ">" Show Albums and stories" on the left side
                      http://s807.photobucket.com/user/budm/library/

                      TV Factory reset codes listing:
                      http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=24809

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Re: Help needed with fried SWMPS

                        And to close the thread - replaced the rectifier, the zener, the fuse and the mystery "N5" component ( with 2N2222 ) and fixed the jumper wire. That seems to have fixed the problem.
                        Now the unit powers up and seems to be charging the battery ( at least reads properly the battery voltage and shows "real-time' charging current values ). Didn't have time for more extended test, but the things look good.
                        Some words about the quality - total shit! As soon as any serious heat is applied and the copper paths pop.
                        About the product - the idea is good.. has several testing and charging modes, and up to 12A charging current. I guess useful product for a repair shop or someone with lots of cars/bikes and batteries. For average Joe with a couple of cars and with some knowledge about car electrics, these are $100 of another unnecessary gadget.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Re: Help needed with fried SWMPS

                          Glad to hear you got it working.
                          I still wonder how the arc jump that far to the jumper wire and melted that wire, may be something conductive fell into the case and shorted out.
                          $100 is a lot for a charger.
                          Never stop learning
                          Basic LCD TV and Monitor troubleshooting guides.
                          http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...956#post305956

                          Voltage Regulator (LDO) testing:
                          http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...999#post300999

                          Inverter testing using old CFL:
                          http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...er+testing+cfl

                          Tear down pictures : Hit the ">" Show Albums and stories" on the left side
                          http://s807.photobucket.com/user/budm/library/

                          TV Factory reset codes listing:
                          http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=24809

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Re: Help needed with fried SWMPS

                            Originally posted by budm View Post
                            Glad to hear you got it working.
                            I still wonder how the arc jump that far to the jumper wire and melted that wire, may be something conductive fell into the case and shorted out.
                            $100 is a lot for a charger.
                            It is a "smart" charger and that's the price on which it is sold on amazon - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Ring-RSC612.../dp/B00S8969OG
                            and probably if you are taking care of 10-20 vehicles, it could be very useful and can save money from dead batteries.

                            I also thought that something from outside caused the arc, but there was nothing left inside the case ( very carefully looked inside for the exploded top of the transistor ). Of course it is possible to have been previously opened for inspection ( the seller had few of those for sale, so probably part of a job lot of warranty returns ).
                            Also, the ventilation holes are not that big...

                            By, the way, what about a power surge?

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Re: Help needed with fried SWMPS

                              I see blue MOV just above the black fuse, so if bad surge comes along it should conduct and blow the main fuse.
                              Never stop learning
                              Basic LCD TV and Monitor troubleshooting guides.
                              http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...956#post305956

                              Voltage Regulator (LDO) testing:
                              http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...999#post300999

                              Inverter testing using old CFL:
                              http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...er+testing+cfl

                              Tear down pictures : Hit the ">" Show Albums and stories" on the left side
                              http://s807.photobucket.com/user/budm/library/

                              TV Factory reset codes listing:
                              http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=24809

                              Comment

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