Thermaltake TR2-420 blown!

[momaka]

Re: Thermaltake TR2-420 blown!

I am going to fix it.

That'd be nice.
Whoever you sell this to, you'll be doing them a favor for not having to use a crappy Deer/L&C.

[goodpsusearch]

Re: Thermaltake TR2-420 blown!

I got another TR2-420 for free recently.

5vsb is ok, but after shorting green wire to black nothing happens, not even a slight move of the fan.

The cap selection is a mixture of Jun Fu and OST, some of them bulging.

I am going to fix it.

[goodpsusearch]

Re: Thermaltake TR2-420 blown!

I like it now
Also, I don't know if anyone has told you before, but your pictures are absolutely superb! Always in focus and show great detail.

Thank you!

I have a somewhat decent ISO PSU in my possession right now as well (though not as good as yours). I'll try to post pics of it later today or tomorrow. Post is in the typing progress ATM.

Can't wait!

[momaka]

Re: Thermaltake TR2-420 blown!

I like it now
Also, I don't know if anyone has told you before, but your pictures are absolutely superb! Always in focus and show great detail.

By the way, if you find a busted CRT TV on the side of the road or next to a dumpster, open it and take its boards. Those usually have small SMD and regular through-hole resistors. Personally, I like the SMD resistors, because they are super-easy to solder on solder-side traces. So with that fan mod you did, you could easily have fit a small 3.3 KOhm SMD resistor on those adjacent traces. It ends up looking like factory-installed .

Not that there is anything wrong with your soldering. Just mentioning this if you want to try something new .

I have a somewhat decent ISO PSU in my possession right now as well (though not as good as yours). I'll try to post pics of it later today or tomorrow. Post is in the typing progress ATM.

[goodpsusearch]

Re: Thermaltake TR2-420 blown!

Yeap. I meant Taicon VZ! I messed it up

I know Delta knows how to keep those Ltec alive. On the other hand CWT has a bad history with thermal management! That's the reason I changed the minimum load resistors. Let's see how well they will do

[Wester547]

Re: Thermaltake TR2-420 blown!

I think you mean Taicon VZ, not LTEC VZ. Taicon VZ is almost a direct cross to Nichicon VZ but both have a different temperature range (-40C to +105C for Taicon and -55C to +105C for Nichicon except for the 160V ones and higher which are rated for -40C and the 450V ones which are rated for -25C). Also, Taicon VZ is rated for 2,000 hours @ 105*C and the Nichicon VZs of the -55C to +105C range 1,000 hours @ 105*C. And since Nichicon only owns about 1/3rd of Taicon, I doubt that they source all their materials from them. I don't know how long those LTEC capacitors will last in that unit. We all know they don't deal well with heat. I don't consider Taicon capacitors so bad because I've only seen two series from them fail with disconcerting frequency (HD and HI, equal to HM). Good job on the repair though!

[goodpsusearch]

Re: Thermaltake TR2-420 blown!

It's up and running.

Fan mod
3.23kohm resistor in parallel with the thermistor

Minimum load resistors

Original --> New

5vsb: 50ohm --> 180ohm

3.3V: 15ohm (!!) --> 50ohm taken from 5vsb

5V: 50ohm --> 150 ohm

12V: 240ohm --> 1000ohm

-12V: 470ohm --> no change

Capacitors

5vsb: 2x1000uF 6.3V Rubycon YXG

3.3V: 2x2200uF 6.3V Ltec LTG

5V: 2x2200uF 6.3V Ltec LTG

The Ltec LTG caps were taken from Delta GPS 350W psu I repaired and recapped. Usually they are fine in Delta psus for a couple of years. It would be interesting to find out how long they last in a non Delta power supply.

12V: 1x1000uF 16V Rubycon YXF & 1x3300uF 16V Panasonic FR

-12V: 1x120uF 16V Panasonic FC & 1x120uF 35V Nichicon PM

Fan Capacitor: 1x220uF 16V Τaicon VZ (correct me if I am wrong but this cap is identical to Nichicon VZ)

Primary caps: 1x800uF 200V Panasonic EE 105C (real C:767uF) & 1x820uF 200V Teapo LXK 85C (real C: 810uF)


When I received this psu it had its main switching transistors blown. I replaced them with 2x13009 from Fairchild Semiconductor TO-3P package.

I think it is a decent power supply now!

[momaka]

Re: Thermaltake TR2-420 blown!

^ Can't put a resistor of any significant value on that trace, because it is the grounding trace for primary aux. winding on driver transformer (used for driving the BJTs).

It works!!!!!!!

[TechGeek]

Re: Thermaltake TR2-420 blown!

I would put a resistor in place of the jumper(IDK which value) and test it in a computer.

[goodpsusearch]

Re: Thermaltake TR2-420 blown!

It works!!!!!!!

[momaka]

Re: Thermaltake TR2-420 blown!

Oh, no! How could I have missed this? Was it like this in the first place or did it just blow while I was testing it?

Should I just jumper it and re-test?

Probably like that. Otherwise the transistors would have likely blown again.

Jumper and re-test. But do it with a series incandescent light bulb. 40-60W should be enough for that.

[goodpsusearch]

Re: Thermaltake TR2-420 blown!

5vsb is perfectly stable and silent. 5.05V

I already replaced D10, D11 and D7, D8 with new.

Give us a photo of the bottom side of the board.

Here:

https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...1&d=1433376228

But wait, look closer:

https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...1&d=1433376228

Can you see it??

https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...1&d=1433376228

Oh, no! How could I have missed this? Was it like this in the first place or did it just blow while I was testing it?

Should I just jumper it and re-test?

[momaka]

Re: Thermaltake TR2-420 blown!

Didn't work

5vsb is there but when I short green with ground it just makes a clicking sound. All the output voltages move a bit, but the fan remains still.

Well, you have 5VSB, so that's still something.

Does the 5VSB whine, whisle, or make "gushing water" sounds? Either way, measure the secondary side auxiliary rail voltage (it is derived from 5VSB traffo, output at D24 I think, right next to electrolytic capacitor C9). Should be around 10-15V. Also check the BJT driver transistors on the secondary side. Typically that would be two small TO-92 case transistors (c945) and their associated diodes. From the pictures you posted, those transistors are likely Q3 and Q4 (right next to where you found that bad diode, D10), and two of the associated diodes are D10 and D11. I think you might also want to replace D11, just in case it is leaky.

Also, why are there resistors in places of diode D38 and D37(?) (or is it D39?). On my TurboLink (see links above, those are diodes). Speaking of my TurboLink, the board is also a REV-G01, so if you need any part references or measurements, let me know .

Give us a photo of the bottom side of the board. It looks like C30 is missing.

See this picture from my TurboLink:
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...1&d=1407035562

[SteveNielsen]

Re: Thermaltake TR2-420 blown!

Give us a photo of the bottom side of the board. It looks like C30 is missing.

[TechGeek]

Re: Thermaltake TR2-420 blown!

Check the filter caps. That may be it.

[goodpsusearch]

Re: Thermaltake TR2-420 blown!

Didn't work

5vsb is there but when I short green with ground it just makes a clicking sound. All the output voltages move a bit, but the fan remains still.

[momaka]

Re: Thermaltake TR2-420 blown!

I have to replace the blown parts. I am going to buy them tomorrow. Wish me luck!

Good luck!

All in all, I think you will be able to fix it, though. It's a simple half-bridge design. Made by Channell Well Technology (CWT), for those curious.
Here are two more similar units (though much crappier):
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showth...ight=turbolink
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showth...ight=turbolink

The 2-transistor 5VSB circuit in this PSU has been known to become a motherboard killer as well. With that said, make sure both the 5VSB output caps and 5VSB critical cap are good.

[TechGeek]

Re: Thermaltake TR2-420 blown!

What are you going to use that PSU for? Or are you going to sell it as refurbished?

[goodpsusearch]

Re: Thermaltake TR2-420 blown!

I have to replace the blown parts. I am going to buy them tomorrow. Wish me luck!

[TechGeek]

Re: Thermaltake TR2-420 blown!

Is it cranking away now, or still dead?