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    #21
    Re: UC3842 basics

    Do you actually get anything on the output? Try setting the output progressively higher, until the supply fires up properly. The control method used by this circuit is different than the usual variable-frequency self-oscillating circuit used in a lot of 5vsb designs, so it may not actually go down to 5v stable at zero load.
    Originally posted by PeteS in CA
    Remember that by the time consequences of a short-sighted decision are experienced, the idiot who made the bad decision may have already been promoted or moved on to a better job at another company.
    A working TV? How boring!

    Comment


      #22
      Re: UC3842 basics

      Originally posted by Th3_uN1Qu3 View Post
      Do you actually get anything on the output? Try setting the output progressively higher, until the supply fires up properly. The control method used by this circuit is different than the usual variable-frequency self-oscillating circuit used in a lot of 5vsb designs, so it may not actually go down to 5v stable at zero load.
      Ok I will try that, I do get little pulses on the output (led on the output).
      Muh-soggy-knee

      Comment


        #23
        Re: UC3842 basics

        I tried increasing the output voltage setting but it still doesn't work. Also adding a minimum load resistor changes the clicking sound to a beeping sound.
        Muh-soggy-knee

        Comment


          #24
          Re: UC3842 basics

          Little pulses on the output means the UC3842 isn't getting the right startup voltage, or it's in current limiting mode when it shouldn't be, due to high parasitics at the mosfet source triggering it. If Vcc of the 3842 is over 12 volts, try increasing the capacitor on pin 3 to 1nF.
          Originally posted by PeteS in CA
          Remember that by the time consequences of a short-sighted decision are experienced, the idiot who made the bad decision may have already been promoted or moved on to a better job at another company.
          A working TV? How boring!

          Comment


            #25
            Re: UC3842 basics

            Originally posted by Th3_uN1Qu3 View Post
            Little pulses on the output means the UC3842 isn't getting the right startup voltage, or it's in current limiting mode when it shouldn't be, due to high parasitics at the mosfet source triggering it. If Vcc of the 3842 is over 12 volts, try increasing the capacitor on pin 3 to 1nF.
            The power for the UC3844 measures 12v, but when I tried a higher voltage external supply (20vdc) and it just shutup and didn't do anything. Removing the external power supply, it goes back to ticking...

            And yes the 1nF cap didn't help either.

            I tried using an inductor to filter the output but it still didn't work.

            tried switching the connections to the feedback winding, but no change whatsoever
            Muh-soggy-knee

            Comment


              #26
              Re: UC3842 basics

              Mm. Opto and 431 are good? I've had bad 431s make all kinds of odd behavior. A flyback won't work with an output inductor in the feedback loop.
              Originally posted by PeteS in CA
              Remember that by the time consequences of a short-sighted decision are experienced, the idiot who made the bad decision may have already been promoted or moved on to a better job at another company.
              A working TV? How boring!

              Comment


                #27
                Re: UC3842 basics

                Originally posted by Th3_uN1Qu3 View Post
                Mm. Opto and 431 are good? I've had bad 431s make all kinds of odd behavior. A flyback won't work with an output inductor in the feedback loop.
                I changed the 100 ohm resistor on the feedback winding to a 47 ohm, the opto and 431, and now it does work, but it seems I cant set the output voltage by changing the voltage divider connected the 431's adj pin; it always stays at 4.27v +- 10mV. Adding a load doesn't really do much, and the transformer makes a slight hissing sound.
                Muh-soggy-knee

                Comment


                  #28
                  Re: UC3842 basics

                  Hi Ben, you need to bias the 431 properly and also the FB for your voltage output requirement.
                  See attachments and also here:

                  The example circuit in post1 has so many missing components and circuits to make it work properly, that 431 should have had 1mA bias for it.
                  Attached Files
                  Last edited by budm; 06-26-2012, 12:56 PM.
                  Never stop learning
                  Basic LCD TV and Monitor troubleshooting guides.
                  http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...956#post305956

                  Voltage Regulator (LDO) testing:
                  http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...999#post300999

                  Inverter testing using old CFL:
                  http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...er+testing+cfl

                  Tear down pictures : Hit the ">" Show Albums and stories" on the left side
                  http://s807.photobucket.com/user/budm/library/

                  TV Factory reset codes listing:
                  http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=24809

                  Comment


                    #29
                    Re: UC3842 basics

                    Originally posted by budm View Post
                    Hi Ben, you need to bias the 431 properly and also the FB for your voltage output requirement.
                    See attachments and also here:

                    The example circuit in post1 has so many missing components and circuits to make it work properly, that 431 should have had 1mA bias for it.
                    Many thanks!

                    I got the power supply circuit to work, biased the 431 properly, and I get a steady 4.97v output

                    It does drive a 1A load, the output drops to 4.96v (not much drop). But when I connect the load (a lightbulb) there is a buzzing sound from the transformer, then as the lightbulb lights up, the buzzing/beeping goes away, so the circuit still must be a little unstable.

                    And the 100ohm resistor (I used 47 ohm) on the feedback keeps smoking, its a 1/2w.
                    Muh-soggy-knee

                    Comment


                      #30
                      Re: UC3842 basics

                      V^2/R =
                      25/47 = 0.53W

                      Not surprising it smokes.
                      Please do not PM me with questions! Questions via PM will not be answered. Post on the forums instead!
                      For service manual, schematic, boardview (board view), datasheet, cad - use our search.

                      Comment


                        #31
                        Re: UC3842 basics

                        Originally posted by tom66 View Post
                        V^2/R =
                        25/47 = 0.53W

                        Not surprising it smokes.
                        lol

                        I measured it and the resistor only has 3.4v across it.
                        I changed the resistor for a 47 ohm 3w power resistor but it gets too hot to touch.
                        Muh-soggy-knee

                        Comment


                          #32
                          Re: UC3842 basics

                          If you are getting 5V output for this 5V switching power supply, and if you are using 47 Ohm resistor to limit the LED current and it is burnig up with 5V supply, something does not add up, since 431 will maintain 2.5v, that means the voltage drop across the RLED and LED will be 2.5V. I do not see how you will burn it up.
                          Or you are designing 5v POWER SUPPLY?
                          Never stop learning
                          Basic LCD TV and Monitor troubleshooting guides.
                          http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...956#post305956

                          Voltage Regulator (LDO) testing:
                          http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...999#post300999

                          Inverter testing using old CFL:
                          http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...er+testing+cfl

                          Tear down pictures : Hit the ">" Show Albums and stories" on the left side
                          http://s807.photobucket.com/user/budm/library/

                          TV Factory reset codes listing:
                          http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=24809

                          Comment


                            #33
                            Re: UC3842 basics

                            I think by "feedback winding" he refers to the resistor from the AUX, which powers the 3842. 47 ohms is too much current. It's 150 ohm 0.25W on mine, it does get hot but no smoke.
                            Originally posted by PeteS in CA
                            Remember that by the time consequences of a short-sighted decision are experienced, the idiot who made the bad decision may have already been promoted or moved on to a better job at another company.
                            A working TV? How boring!

                            Comment


                              #34
                              Re: UC3842 basics

                              Originally posted by budm View Post
                              If you are getting 5V output for this 5V switching power supply, and if you are using 47 Ohm resistor to limit the LED current and it is burnig up with 5V supply, something does not add up, since 431 will maintain 2.5v, that means the voltage drop across the RLED and LED will be 2.5V. I do not see how you will burn it up.
                              Or you are designing 5v POWER SUPPLY?
                              There seems to be lots of misunderstanding, the smoking resistor is in series with a diode on the feedback of the smps transformer, it powers the UC3844 after the supply is started up via a 100k resistor to the +HV rail.

                              Yes, I am designing a 5v smps just for fun/learning

                              And I tried 100ohm as in the original schematic, but the smps just starts ticking... 47ohm makes it start up right away
                              Muh-soggy-knee

                              Comment


                                #35
                                Re: UC3842 basics

                                OK, since the original daigram as shown in post 1 is 150 Ohm, the only 100 Ohm resistor is in the DC output side. Or may be we are not talking about the circuit in post 1, see PDF. I am just confused.
                                I can see why there are misunderstanding.
                                Attached Files
                                Last edited by budm; 06-26-2012, 02:03 PM.
                                Never stop learning
                                Basic LCD TV and Monitor troubleshooting guides.
                                http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...956#post305956

                                Voltage Regulator (LDO) testing:
                                http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...999#post300999

                                Inverter testing using old CFL:
                                http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...er+testing+cfl

                                Tear down pictures : Hit the ">" Show Albums and stories" on the left side
                                http://s807.photobucket.com/user/budm/library/

                                TV Factory reset codes listing:
                                http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=24809

                                Comment


                                  #36
                                  Re: UC3842 basics

                                  I have to get off my lazy ass and finish drawing the schematic i have gotten to, because it's pretty different from the one in the first post. I'll do a PCB too.
                                  Originally posted by PeteS in CA
                                  Remember that by the time consequences of a short-sighted decision are experienced, the idiot who made the bad decision may have already been promoted or moved on to a better job at another company.
                                  A working TV? How boring!

                                  Comment


                                    #37
                                    Re: UC3842 basics

                                    Originally posted by Th3_uN1Qu3 View Post
                                    I have to get off my lazy ass and finish drawing the schematic i have gotten to, because it's pretty different from the one in the first post. I'll do a PCB too.
                                    pft lol
                                    Muh-soggy-knee

                                    Comment


                                      #38
                                      Re: UC3842 basics

                                      I promise a crudely hand drawn version tomorrow.
                                      Originally posted by PeteS in CA
                                      Remember that by the time consequences of a short-sighted decision are experienced, the idiot who made the bad decision may have already been promoted or moved on to a better job at another company.
                                      A working TV? How boring!

                                      Comment


                                        #39
                                        Re: UC3842 basics

                                        Okay, no hand drawn version but i'm attaching this document. Take a look at the schematic in Figure 6. It shows a forward converter not a flyback but this is not relevant - the wiring of the opto is the main difference.

                                        What they did here is wire the voltage feedback of the 3842 to ground, thus disabling the voltage feedback loop entirely, and using the TL431 as error amplifier. As you see, the collector of the opto drives the Comp pin (the output of the 3842's internal error amp), so it goes straight into the PWM comparator.
                                        Attached Files
                                        Originally posted by PeteS in CA
                                        Remember that by the time consequences of a short-sighted decision are experienced, the idiot who made the bad decision may have already been promoted or moved on to a better job at another company.
                                        A working TV? How boring!

                                        Comment


                                          #40
                                          Re: UC3842 basics

                                          One idea, if someone would please explain.

                                          Suppose one has some transformers, like, one taken from a 5vsb ATX PSU, and from some small smps, say a 5V 2A one.

                                          Knowing the inductance of the coils, and maybe the number of turns in them, could they be used with a 3842 in a circuit to create a different voltage, like 3.3 or 12V ? Just adjusting the values of duty cycle , frequency and the control circuit ?

                                          Or is it that the transformer, in a 3842 circuit, or in others also, always need to be custom dimensioned to that circuit“s parameters ?

                                          Thanks.

                                          Comment

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