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Ps5 cfi-1215a adp-400fr

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    Ps5 cfi-1215a adp-400fr

    Friend brought me his PS5. Says the outlet killed it and his PC. Upon opening there was no voltage coming out of PSU. Took it apart and could see 2 traces were destroyed. I fixed it with some thin copper.

    The rectifier bridge is bad, j48 and j49 were shorted, R9 is open. There are 3 other transistors and 1 diode that checked ok. Black on drain, red on source, 0.4v. Red on drain, black on source, 0.0v. OL between gate/source.

    You can see in the pic with the 18N60M2 fet it has some gunk on the pins and you can kinda see some liquid in the screw hole on the PSU shell. Not sure where it all came from but its all along the inside of the shell. The fet was covered in the liquid when I opened the PSU.

    Is it fine to use the GBU 1510 in place of the GBU 1508A?

    Any suggestions on what other components I should check to see if they shorted those fets? What wattage does R9 look like? 5W? The body is about the same size as a bic pen.

    Attached Files

    Re: Ps5 cfi-1215a adp-400fr

    You can always put a "better" diode in with a higher rating. A GBU1510 is 1000V rated vs the GBU1508 800V rating. All other ratings on the full bridge rectifier stayed the same, no problems there. If any of the fets are shorted to the gate, the whole gate drive circuit becomes automatically suspect. That is because the gate drive including the PWM just got dumped full bore voltage from the main filter caps dumped on.

    R9 looks like 2w ought to do with eaz. I don't think you get a 5w in. You can take a size measurement and then determent the wattage rating of the resistor.

    I suggest you build yourself a incandescent "light bulb in series trick", repair all you know what you know is wrong with the PSU, then use that incandescent light bulb tick and fire the PSU up. IF the gate drive (PWM) would be stuck on, the light bulb limits the current to the PS5 and just lights up bright as it can be.


      Re: Ps5 cfi-1215a adp-400fr

      Ok thanks for the info. Parts wont be here until next week so I'll build the dim bulb tester in the meantime.


        Re: Ps5 cfi-1215a adp-400fr

        So what should the bulbs do if its good/bad? I have 2 60w bulbs connected.

        The lights turned on then shut off. The main caps now have 390ish volts on them

        Nothing exploded so thats good

        PS5 now working thanks
        Last edited by m4a2t0t; 09-30-2023, 04:41 PM.


          Re: Ps5 cfi-1215a adp-400fr

          the higher the current the brighter the bulb.
          so if the psu has a short the bulb will be full brightnerss instead of the fuse blowing
          if the psu is good the bulb will be dim.
          and if the lamp is pulsing you know the psu is having trouble starting up


            Re: Ps5 cfi-1215a adp-400fr

            The first quick light up of the bulb during start up of the power supply is o.k. As the capacitors needs to charge up (inrush). As more power the PSU uses, as more the lamps will try to limit the current and light up brighter. Unfortunately there is no one bulb fits all approach on this, so just put more bulbs in series. I am using mostly anything between 60W and 200W, because it works for me best.

            If the light comes on and stays bright, you now you got some kind of problem in the primary, unless you used a too small wattage of a light bulb. This trick works very well, but you have to keep potential pitfalls in mind.

            Congrats for the repair! I just did an HDMI repair on a PS5.