Announcement

Collapse

Forum Rules *ALL NEW MEMBERS, PLEASE READ!! UPDATED!!*

First and foremost, Welcome to the Badcaps Capacitor Search Engine & Forums!

New members that have activated their accounts have limited access to certain features of the site until established. Members with zero posts have no access to the private messaging system. Also, members with zero posts may not edit certain profile attributes, such as signatures. New members also may not create new threads. However, new members with zero posts have full access to all technical information contained on this forum, and that also includes attachments (images and files that other members have uploaded), and new members that have activated their accounts are free to post replies to existing threads. If you wish to create a new thread, the fix is simple! All you need is ONE post to be able to have full unrestricted access, and that can be simply posting an introduction of yourself or say hello in THIS THREAD. This may seem a little strange, but it helps keep spam and abuse curved. Please note, that it may take up to one hour from your first post for the limits to be removed. If you make a post and don't immediately see the restrictions gone, be patient. The promotion system updates every hour.

Please complete your profile after making your first post, with your name, locale, and other info. It's nice to know members on a first name basis, and know where they're from. Makes for a much friendlier environment!

Posting rules for this forum will be STRICTLY enforced by myself as the owner/administrator, and my moderator crew.

Badcaps.net IS A BUSINESS!!! If you are a servicer, service center, or vendor of any kind in the computer/capacitor industry, you are NOT permitted to advertise, link, promote, or plug your business on this forum in ANY way! NO EXCEPTIONS!! This includes asking for "donations" in exchange for BIOS passwords or tech advice for anything! If I see you doing that, your post will be edited or deleted, and you warned. If it happens again, you will be banned. The only exceptions are the references to the companies quoted in the FAQ which the administration have added for the convenience of those around the world who have difficulty to source caps for their repair.

This also includes using this forum's private message system to solicit business. Members, if you receive a PM from anyone offering repair services or components, please alert me immediately! Myself or any of my moderators, will never private message a user soliciting business, for Badcaps.net, or any other servicer/vendor. If you PM me about repairing your device, I will reply and take care of you, however, I will not message you first.

------------------------------------

Posting rules:

This forum was created to be a technical support forum primarily for the do-it-yourselfers who choose to repair their own boards. Any and all technical questions are welcome!

1) Please use the SEARCH feature!! Your question may have been answered in another thread! Please search first and see if it has!

2) When posting a technical question, be as detailed as possible in your thread. The more information we have about your specific problem, the better we can answer your question.

3) Please use COMPLETE sentences, punctuation, and grammar! Nobody is perfect, hence, a spelling error on occasion is no biggie. However, posts/threads that are unreadable will be deleted. This includes any and all forms of 'ebonics', leet, chatroom jargon, and 'text message' shorthand and slang. This forum is not a chatroom/text message, please use full words and complete sentences.

4) Keep discussion on topic!! DO NOT HIJACK THREADS! It's easy to do (I've done it myself a few times...) Lets try to keep it down to a minimal!! If you have something really off topic, that's what the lounge is for!

5) Keep things civil! There will be no tolerance for flaming, bashing, hateful remarks, racial remarks, adult material of ANY kind, and so on.

6) THE LOUNGE RULES! The lounge is a place for off topic chit-chat! If you post something that might be considered questionable or something you don't want kids to see, or something you can't view at work/school, etc, please label that thread *NWS* or NOT WORK SAFE in the thread title as a warning. The Lounge is NOT moderated, anything is welcome... Feel free to post rants, jokes, cars, hot women (remember the NWS warning in the title), or just about anything within reason. It's an open forum! Please refrain from participating in political topics if you have thin skin, they can get heated sometimes!! Remember that we have members here from all over the world, with many different views and cultures. Political debates can turn really ugly, and really fast, and if they degrade to personal attacks and useless banter/bashing, moderator action will ensue. I want this forum to be a safe haven for technical discussions from all walks of life, so lets keep off topic discussions civil and friendly.

7) Spamming and spammers will NOT be tolerated or accepted in any way, shape, or form! Spam bots are instantly and permanently banned, and their threads deleted! The mod crew is really quick to zap spammers, we typically pop them before they even get to post. This also includes regular members as well. be courteous and not post spam. This includes links to off-site information that's not relevant to the thread at hand. Do not plug other websites, forums, or businesses in your signatures. You may do so in a thread if the off-site link you're posting is relevant to the topic, but otherwise, don't do it. If you see a thread which clearly a spam bot posting that we have not removed yet, DO NOT click any links in it!! Simply click the 'report bad post' button, and it'll be taken care of, usually within minutes.

8) Account removals & closures: Since no personal information is given in the creation of your Badcaps.net Forum account, requests to remove and/or delete accounts will be declined. Any requests for removal of threads & posts you created will also be declined. The reason is the missing posts can/will leave threads incomplete and fragmented. For the threads to be of help to others later on, information can't and won't be missing. However, if you inadvertently posted personal identifiable information in a post (such as an email address, real name, or phone number), please contact a staff member. In those cases, the post may be edited or removed, at the staff members discretion.

That's about it for the rules, the setup here is pretty loose. However, if you're caught violating any of the rules above, here's what will happen:

First offense: Warning by me or a moderator
Second offense: Banning for 1 day
Third offense: Banning for 3 days
Fourth offense: Banned permanently.

If you do something really dumb, or are just a troll, I will skip the warning and the temporary banning, and ban you permanently!

The rules are pretty cut and dry... However, if you have any questions about this policy, feel free to contact me.
See more
See less

trying to fix a 6V 0.5A T1 (Transformer) AD050120T2 power supply

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    #46
    Re: trying to fix a 6V 0.5A T1 (Transformer) AD050120T2 power supply

    Have you checked the voltage across C2?

    Comment


      #47
      Re: trying to fix a 6V 0.5A T1 (Transformer) AD050120T2 power supply

      No I haven't measured C2. I didn't want to solder that many wires in one go.

      Yes, I figured that F1 possibly only operates during a short circuit, and that with only 10R the voltage across it would be low.

      R1 measures around 1.2MR rising to 2.2MR (and probably more) in circuit. Obviously there is a capacitor somewhere effecting the reading.
      R8 still seems to measure in reverse bias for a split second. I suppose I should take them out and measure them again.
      And to measure C2 also.
      If I connect a multimeter to the pulse output of the IC I should see a flicker on the meter, but can't measure the frequency with that.

      The traces have come off on one of the mains input wires and one end of F1 and the trace on the other end of F1 is moving up and down. I had to bridge the mains to F1.
      Last edited by Tarot Superstars; 09-22-2023, 03:58 PM.

      Comment


        #48
        Re: trying to fix a 6V 0.5A T1 (Transformer) AD050120T2 power supply

        New microscope setup (on a kitchen roll stand).
        Note: the metal should be insulated but I haven't got around to that yet.

        On the component on the top left, it says 688 or 68B.
        What is that and what is the value?

        The bottom left component.
        What is that value and what does it mean?

        Could someone give me some ideas where I could look to find a replacement IC please?
        You don't have to give me an exact place to buy it, just where I need to look. Data sheet attached.
        Attached Files
        Last edited by Tarot Superstars; 09-23-2023, 02:43 PM.

        Comment


          #49
          Re: trying to fix a 6V 0.5A T1 (Transformer) AD050120T2 power supply

          I measured C2 with the power on using crocodile clips on it's wires.
          It measures 337 Volts DC and 0 Volts AC.

          Also, I have found that there IS an alternate path across the two wires of D8 the Schottky diode, so the split second reverse bias reading means nothing and I would have to remove it to check it properly. Also I think it is a fast recovering diode and not a Schottky diode since I think a Schottky diode should read less than 0.5V forward bias that this reads.
          Last edited by Tarot Superstars; 09-23-2023, 04:17 PM.

          Comment


            #50
            Re: trying to fix a 6V 0.5A T1 (Transformer) AD050120T2 power supply

            putting schematic here so easier to find .
            if you do remove d8 check ohms on the ic pin 5 to pin 1 . it may take a short while waiting on c3 to charge from your meter . if it appears low ohms then remove c3 and try again .
            Attached Files

            Comment


              #51
              Re: trying to fix a 6V 0.5A T1 (Transformer) AD050120T2 power supply

              Thank you.
              Can I do this test before removing D8 or not?

              Comment


                #52
                Re: trying to fix a 6V 0.5A T1 (Transformer) AD050120T2 power supply

                Originally posted by Tarot Superstars View Post
                Thank you.
                Can I do this test before removing D8 or not?
                if you like then yes . just be sure its unplugged and capacitors discharged .

                Comment


                  #53
                  Re: trying to fix a 6V 0.5A T1 (Transformer) AD050120T2 power supply

                  Originally posted by Tarot Superstars View Post
                  On the component on the top left, it says 688 or 68B.
                  What is that and what is the value?
                  It is 1% resistor coded with EIA-96 label, value 4990 ohm


                  The bottom left component.
                  What is that value and what does it mean?
                  Common resistor marked 393, mean 39k...


                  When check resisror in circuit, there shall be always less or equal ohm then marked, else is broken. Indeed, they can be broken and show not suspicious reading if is paralel connected with other stuff. Say 393 marked resistor, if you measure 42k across it, it is broken, but if you measure say 30k it may be ok or broken. Small signal resistor are rarely broken, and often visualy corupted (burned marking, hole, edges melted) in broken state.
                  Attached Files

                  Comment


                    #54
                    Re: trying to fix a 6V 0.5A T1 (Transformer) AD050120T2 power supply

                    Originally posted by harp View Post
                    It is 1% resistor coded with EIA-96 label, value 4990 ohm




                    .
                    are you sure ? i make it 680 ohms . the B meaning add a zero after 68 .

                    Comment


                      #55
                      Re: trying to fix a 6V 0.5A T1 (Transformer) AD050120T2 power supply

                      I have just realized that the mosfet might still be broken.

                      I was following a theory that I had learned, that if I tested the mosfet in diode mode for junctions BE and BC and they tested fine, then if I reversed the polarity of the probes and found no junction (no voltage drop) that the transistor would be good. Also that if BC was higher than BE then it's likely to be ok.
                      I did not use any theory about Gate, Drain and source but I assume the test is the same for a transistor switch and a mosfet.
                      But for clarity, I would be testing the equivalent of BCE:
                      Base is the Gate,
                      Collector is the Drain,
                      Emitter is the Source.
                      So I would be looking for GS ~ 0.5V, CS ~0.51 V or more, and nothing in reverse.

                      But, I just checked a pre-amp transistor that from a radio that I made, and I know it was broken. I know because I put 5V in a 3V radio and it stopped working. Then there was the smell of burning and that transistor was hot. When I changed it and lowered the voltage back to 3V the radio worked.

                      I kept the broken transistor for reference. It's a BC550C (PNP).
                      I just tested it using the theory above and it tested BE ~0.59 V and BC ~0.58V. I checked the data sheet and BE is supposed to be higher than BC in this instance.
                      When I reversed the polarity I did not find a junction and it measured fine.
                      Note that my multimeter might have more of an effect on readings than more expensive ones.

                      This means there is an error in this theory since I know the transistor was broken and yet it has the same readings as a BC550C that I know is not broken.

                      So, then the mosfet could still be broken even though no reverse junctions were found in circuit tests. And even though it was at room temperature.

                      However, a mosfet works differently from a pre-amp transistor. Perhaps someone with more knowledge than me could shed some light on this. Perhaps the test works for mosfets and transistor switches but not transistor amplifiers?

                      Anyone know any good tests to verify if this mosfet is broken or not, perhaps with power on?
                      How do I find out if it's the mosfet, IC or both that are broken?
                      Any advice is appreciated.
                      Last edited by Tarot Superstars; 09-23-2023, 07:36 PM.

                      Comment


                        #56
                        Re: trying to fix a 6V 0.5A T1 (Transformer) AD050120T2 power supply

                        mosfets generally have gate source and drain and dont test same as transistors. another thing is when such things go bad they short out and occasionally go open circuit .i first check for shorted junctions then if all good check live voltages . this may reveal whats going on a little .

                        Comment


                          #57
                          Re: trying to fix a 6V 0.5A T1 (Transformer) AD050120T2 power supply

                          Tested no shorts in circuit.

                          Comment


                            #58
                            Re: trying to fix a 6V 0.5A T1 (Transformer) AD050120T2 power supply

                            I found this and it seems to match the IC in the data sheet provided by Lotas.
                            However, it has 6 wires and not 5 wires like mine.

                            https://www.alibaba.com/product-deta...437418653.html

                            What do you think?

                            Comment


                              #59
                              Re: trying to fix a 6V 0.5A T1 (Transformer) AD050120T2 power supply

                              Originally posted by petehall347 View Post
                              are you sure ? i make it 680 ohms . the B meaning add a zero after 68 .
                              I add EIA-96 atachment previously, according to it, marking code = (decoded)value * alfabet letter multiplier, so, 68 is 499, B is 10, together make 4990 value.

                              When you see letter on the end, you must decode whole entry.
                              Last edited by harp; 09-24-2023, 03:58 AM.

                              Comment


                                #60
                                Re: trying to fix a 6V 0.5A T1 (Transformer) AD050120T2 power supply

                                Hi.
                                That resistor seems to read ~68 ohms. Not sure what the B is for.

                                I performed some more tests designed to test if U1 is receiving power between the positive rail and wire 1 ground, and to test if U1 is sending out a pulsed signal from the gate.
                                Note: I connected the multimeter probes without any polarity checking so it would be the poles are the wrong way around. The connections were so small, I didn't have time to waste switching them around...

                                Test 1 to test if there is any power going to U1 from the positive rail to U1 wire 1 (ground)

                                PWM power U1 Ground to the far side of R1 (which is and SMD marked 245 (24,000,00 = 2.4MR).

                                Result
                                335 V DC,
                                0V AC.

                                Test 2. Test to see if there is any pulsed signal from U1 gate (ground)
                                U1 ground (wire 1) to multimeter probe 1 and U1 gate (wire 2) to multimeter probe 2.

                                Result

                                Flashing multimeter reading (changing from one value to another).
                                From 0.4V DC to -0.1V DC,

                                AC -0.4V AC (maybe a false or insignificant reading).

                                Conclusions and Discussion

                                I assume there is power going through U1. 335 V DC is quite a lot.

                                I assume that U1 IS sending out a pulsed signal. I am not sure and would assume that if the rest of the circuitry was working fine this would result in some output voltage. Not sure if the frequency or width of the pulses high or long enough.

                                Either the pulses are incorrect, or the signals aren't effecting Q1 as they are suppposed to, or some other circuitry from Q1 to the output is broken.

                                I am not sure if 0.4V DC pulse from U1to the gate of Q1 is enough to switch it on.

                                So, I am wondering if anyone knows what these readings mean.
                                What sort of tests might help to figure out what is broken and what isn't.
                                It's possible I missed some instructions already given. If so, I don't mind if you repeat yourself.
                                Any advice is appreciated.
                                Attached Files
                                Last edited by Tarot Superstars; 09-25-2023, 02:36 PM.

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X