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MacBook Air A2337 (Logic Board 820-02016) - Blown tantalum capacitor and dead component near battery connector

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  • OneRefresh
    New Member
    • Jun 2026
    • 5
    • France

    #1

    MacBook Air A2337 (Logic Board 820-02016) - Blown tantalum capacitor and dead component near battery connector

    Hello everyone,

    I am troubleshooting a MacBook Air M1 Model A2337, Logic Board 820-02016 that suddenly went completely dead with no signs of life, no trackpad click, no display.

    Here is what I have done and found so far.

    Initial testing involved trying a soft reset and testing different USB-C chargers including a 75W PC charger, but the board pulled no current and remained unresponsive.

    Battery isolation was the next step. I opened the Mac and disconnected the battery connector. Testing on wall power yielded the same result, it was totally dead.

    Visual Inspection revealed severe burn marks and two damaged components near the main power rails and battery area. A large black tantalum capacitor literally exploded, desoldered itself, and blew off the board due to a massive short circuit. The marking on it reads 686 16K which looks like a 68uF 16V Case-B tantalum capacitor on the PPBUS_G3H line. Right next to the exploded capacitor, there is a smaller black scellated component that took direct heat from the blast and looks charred.

    Multimeter testing on the second component using an ohmmeter or diode mode reads OL or Open Line in both directions, meaning it acts as a blown fuse and the circuit is cut.

    My Questions: Can anyone look at my pictures and confirm the exact schematic reference and values for both the blown tantalum capacitor and the burned component next to it? I suspected a diode, but it might be a high-current inductor or ferrite bead. Is it safe to assume that since the second component went open-circuit, it might have acted as a fuse and saved the main PMIC or M1 chip downstream?

    I just want to ensure I order the exact right replacements.


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    Thank you very much for your help!
  • Answer selected by OneRefresh at 06-12-2026, 02:29 PM.
    R_J
    Badcaps Legend
    • Jun 2012
    • 9732
    • Canada
    • Making Money

    The 686 is a kemet KO-series 68µf 16v Tantalum Polymer Capacitor,
    The other component is the same as the NEZ JE8 (cap) TLPSLV0J157M (150µf 6.3v) I'm sure someone will have a schematic that will be able to help you more than I can.
    I found this image that shows that component as a JE8 cap
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    • R_J
      Badcaps Legend
      • Jun 2012
      • 9732
      • Canada
      • Making Money

      #2
      The 686 is a kemet KO-series 68µf 16v Tantalum Polymer Capacitor,
      The other component is the same as the NEZ JE8 (cap) TLPSLV0J157M (150µf 6.3v) I'm sure someone will have a schematic that will be able to help you more than I can.
      I found this image that shows that component as a JE8 cap
      Attached Files

      Premium supporters get full download access and other benefits.

      Comment

      • OneRefresh
        New Member
        • Jun 2026
        • 5
        • France

        #3
        Hello R_J,

        Thank you very much for this valuable information.

        It helps me a lot to know that the second component is actually a 150uF 6.3V JE8 capacitor and not an inductor or diode. This completely changes how I need to approach the replacement.

        I will wait to see if anyone else can share the exact schematic part numbers or references for this area, but your breakdown gives me exactly what I need to start looking for the right components.

        Thanks again for taking the time to help me out and for finding that image.

        Comment

        • nicoar10
          Senior Member
          • Dec 2024
          • 74
          • spain

          #4
          Originally posted by OneRefresh
          Hello R_J,

          Thank you very much for this valuable information.

          It helps me a lot to know that the second component is actually a 150uF 6.3V JE8 capacitor and not an inductor or diode. This completely changes how I need to approach the replacement.

          I will wait to see if anyone else can share the exact schematic part numbers or references for this area, but your breakdown gives me exactly what I need to start looking for the right components.

          Thanks again for taking the time to help me out and for finding that image.
          here!
          Attached Files

          Premium supporters get full download access and other benefits.

          Comment

          • OneRefresh
            New Member
            • Jun 2026
            • 5
            • France

            #5
            A big thank you, nicoar10.

            Comment

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