MacBook Pro 13 inch 2017 Fan Issue

[jasonr2000]

hi guys I have the following MacBook Pro A1706 13 inch 2017

I have a problem with fan speed I get an error on the right fan but I have replaced both fans and the right fan is still running at full speed

I have tried to use Macs fan control to slow it down but no go.

ive also tried and SMC reset and a PRAM reset and again no change.

while looking over the logic board I have found an issue with a cap down by C6505 C6503 and C6504 ive looked in the board view and I believe that's to do with the PPBUS_G3H

the Mac is running as I said but I can't control the fans in any form. and ive noticed that the left fan will only start if the MacBook is under stress (that may be normal)

thanks for any help.

[forkus]

Check the components on the reverse side of the board near the keyboard connector. In most cases (except for a loosely secured trackpad connector), when placing the motherboard into the chassis, the keyboard ribbon cable gets trapped underneath the board, and when prying it out, some SMD components may get knocked off.

And yes, it's absolutely not a fan issue.

[jasonr2000]

Check the components on the reverse side of the board near the keyboard connector. In most cases (except for a loosely secured trackpad connector), when placing the motherboard into the chassis, the keyboard ribbon cable gets trapped underneath the board, and when prying it out, some SMD components may get knocked off.

And yes, it's absolutely not a fan issue.

hi thanks for the reply.

I have checked but I can't see anything missing I will attach an image of the rear where both connectors sit maybe you can see something.

ive also attached an image of where the damage is on the PPBUS_G3H

[reformatt]

Q6050 looks dislodged to me. Easy to do on these boards if you aren't careful putting them into the chassis. PP3V3_S0 connects from pin 1 to R6050 for the tach, see if the pad is ripped.

[forkus]

and R6001 same feeling, but maybe it's quality of the photo.

[jasonr2000]

Q6050 looks dislodged to me. Easy to do on these boards if you aren't careful putting them into the chassis. PP3V3_S0 connects from pin 1 to R6050 for the tach, see if the pad is ripped.

well I did further checking and your correct Q6050 must have been holding on by a whisker as it fell off when I went to probe it.

is it east to replace it ??

all the tracks look ok.

as for R6001 thats ok its on there properly.

[reformatt]

If the pads are still intact on the FET, then just tin the pads up on both the FET and board with leaded solder and put it back on with hot air.

[jasonr2000]

If the pads are still intact on the FET, then just tin the pads up on both the FET and board with leaded solder and put it back on with hot air.

can I ask what temperature I should set my hot hair station at and air speed please ?

thanks

[reformatt]

Depends on your hot air station and the nozzle size. The main aim is to get the board hot enough that the solder melts. MAC boards sink heat pretty well due to their ground planes, so pre-heating with your hot air is a good idea (just wave the hot air around the vicinity of the area you intend to rework to get the board temperature up). I use 460 degrees at 50 on my Quick TR1300 with a 6mm nozzle. But results will vary depending on your station, calibration, technique and how far away you hold it. If you're spending over a minute and nothing is happening, then your heat/air is too low. Bump it up by 10 degrees and try again. You'll get a feel for it with more experience. With leaded solder the rework becomes a lot easier and faster.