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After repair of gu502lv, battery is 0v, but laptop works stable.

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  • fixxxar
    New Member
    • Mar 2026
    • 1
    • Lithuania

    #1

    After repair of gu502lv, battery is 0v, but laptop works stable.

    Hi badcaps community, Im very begginer guy which transitioning from IT into Tech industry due to finding it more logical in long-term.

    Recently had my laptop broken.

    Left 220v cord disconnected from power supply for 1hour and cameback - laptop was gone.
    Drained bios, laptop started and then shutdown instantly. (battery showed 0%)
    It did not turned on again. Checked one last time with unscrewed battery (wanted initially just replace the battery as it had only 50% capacity left.
    That was my quick "diagnosing". And it slipped from my hands while trying to power on - ripped all terminal (with all pads, clean nice cut).

    Went to repairshop, left it.
    First, they call and told me 3.3v shorted, terminal will be restored and price. Whatever, lets go.

    Brought laptop back. Battery worked, I even run Furmark stress test and disconnected power supply to test if they actually restored B+ to be able to hold the amps coming from battery.
    No smoke. No shutdown. All good. Throttle of FPS was adequate. All nice. Pass.
    Played a game. All seems fine, same like before.
    Then made a coffee, read some news - bam. Shutdown. (no load on cpu)
    Restart and randomly (before posting bios) shutdown again.
    And then it randomly shutdown whatever it want to, during any stage of loading. Same behaviour on battery.
    But battery was holding and showing ~2h of work time, which match perfectly fine with 50% health.

    Okay brought it back.
    They managed to find my CPU stays stable after applying pressure.
    +CPU reballing/reflow.

    The day I came to pick up laptop - battery shows full on windows (100%), but does not provide any information about current.
    Only 10x10px small square pops up when I move mouse over the icon. (normaly its information about charge % OR remaining time on-battery mode)
    Battery health shows that battery does not provide any information about charge/discharge, overall capacity, current capacity and of course health of battery.

    How did they manage to fry my battery in order to go to 0v..
    as I understand its BMS protection which locks the battery due to instabillity of cells to prevent it from fire?

    p.s. also about 3.3v mistery.

    Since the day I bought this machine, i experienced problems with sleep states.
    Sometimes laptop goes to sleep, but I find my cpu/gpu 90+ degrees hot. (+battery drain)
    As soon as I wake him up - fans ramps into 100% instantly.

    Then I tried to insert new driver pack from ASUS into windows installation. It changed behaviour.

    Sometimes I could wake it up with peripherals - mouse keyboard and etc.
    Sometimes I could only wake up with laptop keyboard or power-on button.
    1 day I could not wake him up at all.
    Then I panicked and and put power jack out and put it back in.
    It worked. And then I saw my screen panel was fried with green vertical strips and "chopped" bottom which is half-way working.

    I use external monitor only, because if I put some youtube video or anything dynamic it provokes my laptop screen into shutting down.

    My question here: is it safe to keep this panel in this state connected, because im not planning restoring this laptop futher as it costed me already too much for cpu/3.3v/bat.terminal repair. And 10th gen 2060 is already halfway outdated for modern use.

    What is your opinions about this machine ?
    Repair shop told me that all those sleep problems was initially from manufacturer and I should just return this machine until warranty ended, which I didnt..

    Also worth mentioning:

    Now games run much smoother with same FPS.
    Lets say if I have fps dips into 120 (from lets say 200-220)
    My screen provides much cleaner and much more responsive gameplay, than it was before. Now it feels like I have gsync on and its smooth, compared to what it was before.

    Was it connected with CPU or 3.3v line ? And this is not placebo, because I was trying endless driver updates/downgrades, optimisations, MSI-mode optimizations, dpc latency tracking, then assigning interrupt policies from CPU(0) and spreading all drivers around 8 cores and etc. etc. etc. literally endless hours spent trying to make this machine work smoothly as it never did it before repairshop magic happened.

    If you can share your opinion, it is interesting as I am trying to learn board-level repairs.
  • Tesla
    Senior Member
    • Jul 2011
    • 146
    • USA

    #2
    Welcome to the forum.
    Sounds like it is a Asus Gaming laptop
    - that first suffered a lock-up requiring a reset of the EC (by pulling the main battery connection to reset and RTC). That is fine and fairly common.
    - But then, a catastrophic fall, and you had it repaired at local shop.

    Then the internal LCD-panel (or supporting circuits) went out (likely weakened due to fall). Yes, you can keep it as is and use external one. If laptop gets too hot during gaming, you might have to keep it open.

    As far as the rest, I suggest:
    - Turn off all the "Sleep and Hibernation" non-sense. It's common for laptops to be unstable after waking (aren't you?). Disable all that. Try this ... Turn on laptop and use it ... turn it off when finished.

    Also, so you don't fry your RTX-2060 mobile-GPU (not really outdated as you say) . Actually, as far as mobile-GPUs go, it's pretty awesome dude. 😎
    I suggest you install MSI-AfterBurner or similar and create a auto-load-apply Profile #1 that tones it down a bit like:
    Core-voltage +0 mV, Core +0mhz & Memory +0mkz (stock-clocks), 90% Power-Limit, 83c Temp-Limit, Auto-Fans with Sync
    - This is what I run on my RTX-4080.
    But I think you get the idea.

    Good Luck.

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