Help with Motor Control Board - ProForm treadmill

[Crrose]

Re: Help with Motor Control Board

Thanks, looking at the spec sheet on page 13 if I read it right, it's a TC1410N with the C meaning 0-70 degree celsius and the OA meaning it's plastic SOIC 8-lead? I'll call to make sure before I purchase. I went to 3 places around here and they didn't carry either mosfet, said to order from digikey.

Gives me time to do some practicing I guess.

[keeney123]

Re: Help with Motor Control Board

Please note that the IC TC1410, I do not know for sure if it is TC1410 or TC1410N, they are not the same.

I am sure it is TC1410N according to the pictures the device is TC1410, NCOA
I attached the spec sheet. Look on page 13. C, starts with the temperature. They carry the N down to reduce the lettering on one line.
If still in doubt call the manufacturer which is listing at the back of the attachment.

[keeney123]

Re: Help with Motor Control Board

The Cathode has to be connected to the B+, the Anode is connected to Drain (basically across the motor, there is current sensing resistor in series with the motor) so when back EMF will be diverted to the Diode. The MOSFET is connected as sinking for the motor.
This is how it is connected, the MOSFET sinks the motor:
http://www.spaennare.se/pwmdig.html

Just wanted to let you know that in you post 128 the Anode is connected to the B+ not the Cathode.

[Agent24]

Re: Help with Motor Control Board

I guess I'll go get the 2 parts and work on my soldering

Have a look at some soldering tutorial videos on Youtube, especially SMD ones (I think your controller IC is a SMD part?)

There's a good general soldering video from CuriousInventor and a channel called SolderingGeek does a lot of SMD stuff too.

Get some scrap boards to practice on if you want, it's actually not that hard when you're used to it (And before I tried, I thought it looked impossible) but you may need a little practice if you've never done it before.

[budm]

Re: Help with Motor Control Board

Please note that the IC TC1410, I do not know for sure if it is TC1410 or TC1410N, they are not the same.

[Crrose]

Re: Help with Motor Control Board

I guess I'll go get the 2 parts and work on my soldering, may get 2 of the power mosfets and replace it and see what happens. If if shorts again the I will have a spare and I may not have to replace that tiny tiny tiny solder joints.

Let you know what happens when I find them.

[budm]

Re: Help with Motor Control Board

The MOSFET is already shorted out when you were probing the driver IC, you also verified that it has low resistance reading on the MOSFET.
If you replace just the MOSEFT without repalcing the driver IC then you are taking a chance of damaging the new MOSFET if the driver IC is damaged.
We need to get the unit back to the same condition as before you were probing the IC and damage the MOSFET.

""What I think should be done is to solder a shorting wire across the motor control FET & see if the motor runs when power is applied." It is already running at full speed due to the shorted out MOSFET.

post 197:

Selldoor in post #145 said it was so that's what I got. However I have a new problem now. I was testing to make sure I still had the voltage from that small 8 pin mosfet and I must have shorted it or something because all of a sudden the treadmill motor just started at full speed. Now it won't shut off except by turning power off, even when pulling out the safety switch.

post 203:

You need to check the resistance between the Source pin and the Drain to see if it shows low Ohm reading, from your reading, it looks bad, and it can take out the IC also.

Post 204:

With meter set at 200 ohm I get a reading of .5 ohm, in diode mode I have continuity.

[Crrose]

Re: Help with Motor Control Board

No I wasn't going to try to short it like whoever that was suggested to someone else, was wondering if mine is shorted since the motor runs at full speed. I disconnected the power to the motor so I could turn machine on, I tested the VDD and GND pins again and still getting 12v on both sides if that means anything. Just trying not having to desolder and resolder a new TC1410 chip if I didn't have to since my soldering skills aren't great.

[stj]

Re: Help with Motor Control Board

if the relay is for static braking you are going to cause a bang fucking around like that.

[Crrose]

Re: Help with Motor Control Board

Saw this somewhere when trying to research:
"What I think should be done is to solder a shorting wire across the motor control FET & see if the motor runs when power is applied. To find the right pins for this, simply look which two have the heaviest traces going to them. Looking up the datasheet for the FET itself is another way to determine the pins. You need the FET's number for this.
You can do this test without bolting everything back onto the heatsink, provided you don't let it run for more than one second. You only need enough time to see if the motor runs at all, as it will automatically run at full voltage with the FET shorted out.
This will confirm operation of everything except for the FET & it's driver circuit."

That makes it sound like that 3 prong mossfet is shorted.

[Crrose]

Re: Help with Motor Control Board

Ok so do I replace tc1410 or the one on the heat sink or both.

[budm]

Re: Help with Motor Control Board

The Cathode has to be connected to the B+, the Anode is connected to Drain (basically across the motor, there is current sensing resistor in series with the motor) so when back EMF will be diverted to the Diode. The MOSFET is connected as sinking for the motor.
This is how it is connected, the MOSFET sinks the motor:
http://www.spaennare.se/pwmdig.html

[keeney123]

Re: Help with Motor Control Board

Ah, you are correct, I look at the trace layout and see how it is connected, it is basically across the motor for the motor back E.M.F.

I am kind of sure that the way the diode is drawn the positive is on the positive side of the cap and the negative is on the drain which when the source connects to the drain that connects it to the negative side of the cap so that that would short out the capacitor. Maybe the diode's positive side need to connect to the negative drain and the negative of the diode to the positive cap voltage so it will not short out the cap but when the motor EMF collapses it will forward bias shorting out the motor.

[budm]

Re: Help with Motor Control Board

BudM you said the diode went across Source to drain because the diode in the chip was not big enough. In your picture on post 128 the diode is going from the B+ to the Drain not the source to drain.

Ah, you are correct, I look at the trace layout and see how it is connected, it is basically across the motor for the motor back E.M.F.

[keeney123]

Re: Help with Motor Control Board

BudM you said the diode went across Source to drain because the diode in the chip was not big enough. In your picture on post 128 the diode is going from the B+ to the Drain not the source to drain.

[Crrose]

Re: Help with Motor Control Board

With meter set at 200 ohm I get a reading of .5 ohm, in diode mode I have continuity.

[budm]

Re: Help with Motor Control Board

You need to check the resistance between the Source pin and the Drain to see if it shows low Ohm reading, from your reading, it looks bad, and it can take out the IC also.

[Crrose]

Re: Help with Motor Control Board

So if I remove TC1410 and power it up and the motor just runs at full speed still then that chip is bad? Or could it be the 3 legged mossfet on the heat sink. However I just tested that one at 200 ohm setting and I get 42.3 with black pin 1 and red pin 2, 42.3 black pin 1 red pin 3 and .6 black pin 2 red pin 3.

[Crrose]

Re: Help with Motor Control Board

Hmmm, that is an awfully small chip to try to remove and resolder, not sure I am capable of that without damaging chip or board.

[budm]

Re: Help with Motor Control Board

You can remove it and see if the motor will still run at full speed, just do the quick test, if it does then the MOSFET is damaged.