Re: Honda XL 600 LM 1985-1989 PD04,Resistor blown up and losted
a guy on another forum thinks the chip is based on this:
a guy on another forum thinks the chip is based on this:
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Re: Honda XL 600 LM 1985-1989 PD04,Resistor blown up and losted
Guys how's it going? I hope you are doing well. Anyway I received the capacitor 220uf 63v but is without mark of negative leg.in one of the side it a stranger mark but I don't know if it's a negative side. I will show you on the picture thank you for your help 👍Attached Filesif you find these attachements useful please consider making a small donation to the site
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Re: Honda XL 600 LM 1985-1989 PD04,Resistor blown up and losted
film caps arent polarised, you can put it either way
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Re: Honda XL 600 LM 1985-1989 PD04,Resistor blown up and losted
Note also, that the tachometer circuit integrates primary circuit pulses from the magneto ignition system. These systems will have high voltage spikes, up to several hundred volts. There will be a diode, zener usually, on the tach board which limits voltage after the signal has passed through an input current limiting resistor. Verify that the diode is good - I've seen a few that failed shorted.Comment
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I just picked up this tv yesterday and the previous owner said while watching tv he heard a loud a pop and then the screen went dark. I removed the back cover and found the source rather quickly; resistor R8601. A chunk of the ceramic had blown off exposing the inner wire. Due to the damage I cannot make out the colors of a couple bands. I likewise cannot find a datasheet for the power supply. I tried pulling up pictures of the same board online but the resistors have different colored bands which I half expected as I've had this happen before.
The power supply is 715G8413-P01-001-0H2S... -
I'm working on one of the PSU's in my backlog today that came out of an NBA Jam arcade machine a year or so ago. The PSU is a Pan Yes brand with a model number PY-TV-C. From what I remember the 12v rail wasn't outputting anything. I opened it up and was reminded that the resistor at R28 had blown it's shell off and I have no idea how to ID a replacement for it. (see pictures) The color bands that are still intact a little are brown, black, missing band/bands, and what I'm assuming is silver. When I check it with my DMM it's reading 100ohms exactly but I don't know if that's what it's supposed...
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Hi to all forum members,
Got this faulty 350 watt atx psu dirt cheap from a local online seller as i am keen to use it as a learning tool to repair faulty power supply.
The faulty part is quite obvious from the burn area near the 16pin KA7500 BD pwm. The fuse is still intact with good continuity.
Upon power on ac, there is 5vdc standby power on cathode of diode D14 and about 10vdc on cathode of diode D13.(This should be the aux power to generate the 12v and 5v rail.)
Initially i replace the two burned resistors near my marked red arrow to 200 ohm resistor... -
I am curious if a 0402 resistor could go from 43 ohm to 0. In electronics class and my experience a resistor can degrade and gain resistance all the way up to not being able to conduct at all. I have never heard of a resistor decreasing in resistance and becoming 0 ohm or a dead short… that's not the direction they fail… or so I thought.
I was attempting to remove a wson8 chip on an iMac motherboard and it required a lot of heat, on one side of the chip were 3 0402 resistors that were very close. I popped the chip out unintentionally out of the tweezers and sent those resistors... -
The resistor on this waterpik blew. I changed it with the a similar spec 47ohm 2 watt yageo resistor but it still keeps blowing the resistor. Checking with the multimeter the motor, capacitor, diodes, and thermal fuse all checked normal. Will a higher ohm resistor work better? What ohm resistor will work better to repair this waterpik? This video is showing the repair with a 56 ohm resistor https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_J7_rV7ui1Y
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