Suggestions on how to remove this Display Port

[Vino Lamar]

Below I have attached some photos. Was wondering how to go about removing this display port. I can't use the hot air gun because of the parts around where I'm trying to solder. I have a photo with everything circled. Maybe a desoldering sucker gun? Was wondering if the nozzle would be too big to fit the smaller holes on the bottom. Or if there is a specific gun you guys recommended. I have a Yihua 948 and the nozzle feels bigger (it's clogged and I have to make a post about how to unclog that as well). Yea, any suggestions would be much appreciative.

[Vino Lamar]

Buehler.... No one has any suggestions or input? I've been subscribed for 3 months. Made plenty of posts, provided pictures. This site is recommended but I feel as though with the lack of engagement with this site it is time to stop the subscription and go to reddit. Kind of disappointed, ah well. You live and learn....

[SMDFlea]

Buehler.... No one has any suggestions or input?

Maybe the reason why is because you posted in the General Computer & Tech Discussion forum. I`ve redirected your thread to the Troubleshooting Desktop Motherboards, Graphics Cards, and PC Peripherals forum.

Below I have attached some photos. Was wondering how to go about removing this display port. I can't use the hot air gun because of the parts around where I'm trying to solder. I have a photo with everything circled. Maybe a desoldering sucker gun? Was wondering if the nozzle would be too big to fit the smaller holes on the bottom. Or if there is a specific gun you guys recommended. I have a Yihua 948 and the nozzle feels bigger (it's clogged and I have to make a post about how to unclog that as well). Yea, any suggestions would be much appreciative.

Try to desolder the pins with your Yihua 948 . You can get different sized nozzles 0.8mm,1.0mm,1.2mm and 2.0mm . Put some leaded solder on all the pins and clean up the flux before you use the desoldering gun. If you can`t get the nozzle over the smaller pins try using desoldering braid and a soldering iron instead .

WEP 948 nozzles on aliexpress - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002347214165.html

[DynaxSC]

I do not have good experience with desoldering irons. I'd suggest two options:

1. Desoldering the whole connector heating the PCB from the bottom side with hot air gun, PCB upside down, heating until all tin is liquid and you can take out the connector to the bottom. Heating must be quite strong 400-440C. This is fast but quite risky, as devices can be blown away, or the PCB overheated. Must be done with care.

2. Board upside down on preheater ca 150-180C, from top carefull heating with hot-air, but not too much, so that tin does not melt. Then use a solder iron, heat pin by pin separately, so only the current pin tin is melted, and use compressed air gun to blow away the tin from the holes. Clean all wholes one by one this way. The pins might still glue to the wholes with rest of tin, but you can push the pins to loosen them inside the holes with a small screwdriver. After this the components around might be contaminated with the blown away tin, so carefull cleaning under magnifier glass is necessary, else shorts might occur. You can also clean this way only the 4 bigger corner body pins, and then put on the two signal pin rows lot of additional leaded tin, so you bridge them all with a fat line of tin, and heat with a stronger solder iron untill all tin of the two rows is melted, so you can take out the connector to the bottom.

Before all this better take macro pictures for the case, you manage to blow away any smd's.

There is also a last and brutal method. Just smash the connector slowly mechanically into pieces, and you can then solder out the single wires one-by-one. This is tricky, do not to damage the PCB, must be done with imagination.

[YoinieB8iem2]

Two options I can think of:
1. Find a stainless steel tube with OD that would fit into the each PCB hole on one end, with ID greater than DVI port's pin. So that by heating the tube with iron you can isolate the pin from the board and this way desolder every pin one by one. Where to get such stainless steel tube: syringes. Then you grind off the sharp part. This an old trick desoldering ICs in DIP cases. Might not be able to pull this if hole dia VS pin dia do not have enough tolerance.
2. ChipQuik.

[reformatt]

Hot air is the easiest. Heat from underneath with a large nozzle and high air flow. In confined spaces with plastic nearby I mask those areas with kapton tape and then cover it again with copper tape. I replaced an EC on a Lenovo board that was right in between two ZIF connectors with this method. Copper tape makes it much easier.

You can use low melt solder on the pins to make it a bit easier. Chipquik is the best but expensive. You can get rolls of low melt alloys though - not as good as Chipquik but cheaper. Then I use hot air and a manual solder sucker to clear the holes. Some people just heat it and put the new connector in but I prefer to clear the holes. I've also seen graphite pencils poked through holes to clear them with hot air.