I've made a bit of a discovery regarding the old Sound Blaster 16 sound cards which use TEA2025 amplifiers. Seems Creative, the penny-pinching shonks they are, wasn't entirely following the datasheet for the TEA2025 and substituted improper capacitors in a few places. This resulted in much of the Sound Blaster 16 line sounding muddy and muffled, a lot worse than they could and should sound.
According to NatSemi's TEA2025 datasheet, the two 1.0uf input capacitors and 470uf 16v output capacitors should be bi-polar, not polarized. Creative, of course, used plain old polarized caps in those places, which had the effect of making the sound darker and muddier. Replacing the 1.0uf input caps with relatively cheap Nichicon VP bi-polarized caps resulted in a much clearer and brighter high-range. (Replacing them with huge 1.0uf metal-film caps brightened it even more, but that may be a touch overkill. Besides the caps look awkward jutting from the board like that. But then I thrive on awkwardness so...) Here are the metal-films on my CT2230: https://www.dropbox.com/s/4ty4aip56kkgzx9/HPIM1095.JPG
In addition, Creative often used 47uf caps on the TEA2025's feedback lines, where the datasheet specified to use 100ufs. Replacing them with 100uf's resulted in a notable increase in bass. (According to the datasheet, using smaller caps increases the low-pass cutoff.)
Last but not least, replacing the old 100uf SVR cap with a 220uf cap results in a generous improvement in overall sound quality.
Here are some before and after comparisons. The before was on a stock CT2770 with the caps Creative selected.
Here's how most SB16's with the TEA2025 amp circuits typically sound:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/6cavo6mopb...put%20caps.wav
And here is how a SB16 (CT2910) with the correct capacitors sounds:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/b1d5fnopqj...n%20inputs.wav
Quite a difference, no? No audio-phoolery here, it's just simply following the datasheet.
And here is how my CT2230 SB16 sounds using 1.0uf polypropylene film caps on the inputs:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ugqhzo0kzq...zed%20caps.wav
Your results may vary depending on the caps you use and the design of the sound board of course. I tried to compare the results using SB16s which all had very similarly built TEA2025 amplifier sections. Also bear in mind that the TEA2025, being a tape-player amplifier, is not by any means a high-fidelity device, so the best you can hope to attain is a generally listenable sound quality.
So... yeah, you don't need any fancy shmancy SILMIC, Black Gates or anything like that when reworking a SB16 for better quality. All you need is the TEA2025B datasheet, a soldering gun and some good quality bi-polarized caps. (Yes, I used polarized SILMIC on the output of that CT2230, back before I studied the TEA2025B schematics in detail. But that will soon change. The two SILMICs are socketed to allow for easy, solder-free cap replacement.)
Oh yeah, here's the TEA2025B datasheet.
According to NatSemi's TEA2025 datasheet, the two 1.0uf input capacitors and 470uf 16v output capacitors should be bi-polar, not polarized. Creative, of course, used plain old polarized caps in those places, which had the effect of making the sound darker and muddier. Replacing the 1.0uf input caps with relatively cheap Nichicon VP bi-polarized caps resulted in a much clearer and brighter high-range. (Replacing them with huge 1.0uf metal-film caps brightened it even more, but that may be a touch overkill. Besides the caps look awkward jutting from the board like that. But then I thrive on awkwardness so...) Here are the metal-films on my CT2230: https://www.dropbox.com/s/4ty4aip56kkgzx9/HPIM1095.JPG
In addition, Creative often used 47uf caps on the TEA2025's feedback lines, where the datasheet specified to use 100ufs. Replacing them with 100uf's resulted in a notable increase in bass. (According to the datasheet, using smaller caps increases the low-pass cutoff.)
Last but not least, replacing the old 100uf SVR cap with a 220uf cap results in a generous improvement in overall sound quality.
Here are some before and after comparisons. The before was on a stock CT2770 with the caps Creative selected.
Here's how most SB16's with the TEA2025 amp circuits typically sound:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/6cavo6mopb...put%20caps.wav
And here is how a SB16 (CT2910) with the correct capacitors sounds:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/b1d5fnopqj...n%20inputs.wav
Quite a difference, no? No audio-phoolery here, it's just simply following the datasheet.
And here is how my CT2230 SB16 sounds using 1.0uf polypropylene film caps on the inputs:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ugqhzo0kzq...zed%20caps.wav
Your results may vary depending on the caps you use and the design of the sound board of course. I tried to compare the results using SB16s which all had very similarly built TEA2025 amplifier sections. Also bear in mind that the TEA2025, being a tape-player amplifier, is not by any means a high-fidelity device, so the best you can hope to attain is a generally listenable sound quality.
So... yeah, you don't need any fancy shmancy SILMIC, Black Gates or anything like that when reworking a SB16 for better quality. All you need is the TEA2025B datasheet, a soldering gun and some good quality bi-polarized caps. (Yes, I used polarized SILMIC on the output of that CT2230, back before I studied the TEA2025B schematics in detail. But that will soon change. The two SILMICs are socketed to allow for easy, solder-free cap replacement.)
Oh yeah, here's the TEA2025B datasheet.
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