Do you wait to identify the bad capacitor and then order the replacements or do most of you have a ready assortment to choose from? I can see over time a supply developing but what should a beginner buy to have a likely replacement available ahead of time?
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Re: Buying Capacitors
It depends. I started out in April 2010 with the intent on fixing just one LCD. So I ordered just the caps I needed plus a couple spares.
Then I saw deals on Craigslist and Kijiji and got a few more LCDs to fix. Then I needed more caps.
The ones that seem to be replaced the most (looking through my bad caps) are 1000uF 16V and 470uF 25V.
If you are only going to fix this one LCD, order just what you need. If you like doing this, you will automatically accumulate more and more.
Originally posted by foxden--- begin sig file ---
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Re: Buying Capacitors
I think most of us started out expecting to fix one monitor, and then it became a trickle that soon developed into a flood. That's certainly what happened here.Originally posted by foxden
I normally use Hitano EXR caps, and carry stock of:
470/10
470/16
470/25
1000/10
1000/16
1000/25
That addresses 95% of requirements in terms of capacity/voltage/dimensions for me.Friends don't let friends buy Samsung ....Comment
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Re: Buying Capacitors
Thanks for the advice, I guess I can buy a few of each of these. I really expected a much longer list. Seems like the problems for the most part must be related to these however.Comment
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Re: Buying Capacitors
In Canada, shipping from ca.digikey.com is $8 CDN + GST + PST. So shipping could be as much as $10 CDN to get a 30 cent cap.
If you live in the USA, I believe digikey.com charges around $3 USD for shipping.
Originally posted by foxden--- begin sig file ---
If you are new to this forum, we can help a lot more if you please post clear focused pictures (max resolution 2000x2000 and 2MB) of your boards using the manage attachments button so they are hosted here. Information and picture clarity compositions should look like this post.
We respectfully ask that you make some time and effort to read some of the guides available for basic troubleshooting. After you have read through them, then ask clarification questions or report your findings.
Please do not post inline and offsite as they slow down the loading of pages.
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Re: Buying Capacitors
I am in the US. The shipping is really the reason for my question. I would rather order a bunch and pay one shipping than order one or two capacitors and pay a bunch to ship it.Comment
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Re: Buying Capacitors
Not only that, but if you order in significant quantities (10+) then they give you a pretty decent price break per unit as well.Originally posted by foxdenComment
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Re: Buying Capacitors
Yes, but just about any place in Canada charges $1.50+ for a 30 cent cap, so if you order in decent quantities, $8.00 for overnight shipping can be worth it. I usually buy caps for how ever many devices are in my "to fix" pile, then double Yes I'd like to pay 2-3 dollars for 3-5 day delivery, but that never works, with customs hassles etc...Originally posted by retiredcaps
My .02 Cdn....36 Monitors, 3 TVs, 4 Laptops, 1 motherboard, 1 Printer, 1 iMac, 2 hard drive docks and one IP Phone repaired so far....Comment
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Re: Buying Capacitors
One thing I try to emphasize. Digikey offeres a SUSP First Class Mail shipping option. Shipping on a small order will run about $2.50, larger orders will run more. It's not like ordering from Mouser where the cheapest shipping option is UPS and costs about $7.00.Originally posted by foxden
PlainBillFor a number of reasons, both health and personal, I will no longer be active on this board. Any PMs asking for assistance will be ignored.
Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark. Professionals built the Titanic.Comment
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Hi, I have some 32 bits computer motherboards that need repair, as they fail to
power on.
Here are some examples :
(N.B. "capacitors" indicated here are electrolytic capacitors located in the onboard
switching supply area).
(N.B. #2 : I could not find a 3300 microF aluminum-polymer with a higher voltage
than 6.3 V.)
1 - Motherboard #1 : this is an Asrock K7VT2 (socket A) that still works well. To put it on test
I replaced capacitors with aluminum-polymer.
3300 microF/6.3 V. x 4 replaced by 3300 microF/6.3 V. (KYOCERA... -
hey all, iv got my favourite battery charger here which iv had for many years probably 15 years now or maybe even more. it still works good but thought id open it up to clean the dust out of it, lots of dust inside but now its clean and noticed 4 capacitors inside it and wondered if i should replace them.
it has inside:
2 x 47uf 16v caps 105c branded as Su'scon (lol sounds sus to me)
2 x 470uf 16v LZ105c branded as G.Luxon
not heard of these brands are they any good?
iv attached photos of the charger and the board inside for an idea on the type of... -
I did not have any 27uf @ 50 volt capacitors but one nice thing is that it has enough room for two capacitors in parallel a 22uf and a 4.7uf @ 50 volts 22 plus 4.7 equals 26.7uf which so very close to 27uf I will show some pictures of it sometime tomorrow
This is one of the shit est boards I seen in a very long time and it was the daughter board the traces just lifting off the board I had to use the capacitor leads to repair the the traces and the main board is not any better because I had to repair several traces for the daughter board to the main board
After all of... -
I have a 2007-era Panasonic VHS combo that is full of of Elna RJG capacitors. I am trying to test the capacitors to diagnose the machine and then select replacement capacitors but I can not find any datasheets for them. I did find a Elna catalogue from 2007-2008 but there is no mention of this capacitor series. Where these specially made for Panasonic and so not made available to the public? Any ideas what to find out what the ESR values should be without the datasheets? They are all between 10V and 50V and 47uF and 1800uF. None are leaking or bulged but I know that they need to be tested to be... -
I picked up a 70" Samsung UN70TU7000WXZA. The original owner said they were watching it when the power surged and knocked it out. I pulled the back off the TV and disconnected the main board from the power board, and the LED backlight came on, which I was told meant the power board was good. When everything is plugged in the standby light will not come on, looking at the main board BN94-17775A with a thermal imaging gun I can see one of the chips labeled 3202 is 251 degrees F just sitting idle. I found a replacement board, BN94-16115X; this board has the same symptoms, except it is a different...
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