Samsung 215tw display cuts out

[Josh]

Re: Samsung 215tw display cuts out

This may help?
http://s807.photobucket.com/albums/y...msung%20215TW/

Thanks budm but I'm more worried about the layers underneath that stuff inside the silver belly of the beast. The slab of glass and special transparent sheets etc.

[budm]

Re: Samsung 215tw display cuts out

Oh you are talking about the LCD panel assembly.

[Hicky]

Re: Samsung 215tw display cuts out

Hey all....
New to this board...
Found this very useful topic when googling for a solution to Syncmaster 210TW backlight problem, as everybody else, my screen stayed on for aprox a second. then shuts off...
Replaced caps as first step (couple of them bulged), measured transformer, all 6 within range, still same symptom..
Next step disasembled screen to find top lamp assebly totaly burnt on end side, also silicone rubber caps burnt to pieces, one lamp broken..
To make it easy I want to replace the whole 3 lamp assembly in the rail..
Contacted lcdpart and ccflwarehouse, but none of them carry this assemblies..
The panel is a LTM210M2-L02..
So the big Q, does anyone know where I can purchase this assembly?
Thanks in advance...

[supraeon]

Re: Samsung 215tw display cuts out

Well, I seem to have had the reverse of symptoms - my screen just went blank one night (no flickering beforehand). I made sure it was just the backlight and proceeded to replace the caps on the power supply.
Success! ...except that after a while (maybe an hour) the top left corner gradually went black -as in the liquid crystals were behaving strangely, not dead pixels.
Thanks to this thread I came to the conclusion that a CCFL return wire was getting hot.
Removing the fluoros from the panel confirmed it - the returns for the top bundle had burned. This had slightly scorched the surrounding plastic. The black of the liquid crystals was just temporary, luckily!
I rewired the three wires to the tubes (nerve-wracking!) and used some Sugru as a buffer/insulater. I reinstalled while it was still soft it would conform to the housing.
Test - backlight on... then off. Oh. Try again - backlight on... then off.
I hope this is just while the Sugru cures otherwise...

[supraeon]

Re: Samsung 215tw display cuts out

Phew, dodged a bullet there! I pulled the unit apart again and measured the fluoros with respect to the frame - yep, one return wire shorting to the frame. So disassemble the panel again and trace the black return wire (the Sugru works fine but I probably put too much on). I had probably pulled the black return a little too much and it bit in to the tube-holding frame. I fixed that (note: good idea to lay a piece of Kapton tape across the edge to prevent this!) and test - no short.
Reassemble and test - yay!

[e5frog]

Re: Samsung 215tw display cuts out

I've had troubles with flickering light on my Samsung Syncmaster 215TW, stable image and so on, just a constant flicker of the light.

Googled, browsed forums and it seemed a cap replacement was a good solution to many problems. So I went in there and found that the caps were replaced already and looked fine, capacitance checked out as well as ESR and resistance - I decided to get the best ones I could regarding to the ESR anyway which was Rubycon ZLJ, better ESR values than the originals at least, not as good as those Panasonic FR that's always recommended but I thought good enough.

After mounting the new caps today - no difference so I started reading this thread, and finally found one old post from 2010 - he had a flicker, he resoldered a browned up wire on one of the ccfl tubes... I was expecting to having to replace the CCFL tubes or something like that but I've had this broken wire on a small LCD TV once and it was merely a resolder that was needed.

So, monitor was already disassembled, I had played around with removing one connector at the time for the tubes, that resulted in about a second long image - with no flicker. So either tubes or the inverter, maybe the light dim signal...?

Took LCD out of front bezel, put it on a paperbox, removed the metal from the panel circuit board, metal frame, landed on the desk. Then continued loosening the metal back side from the rest and also getting the white plastic back cover and the two light assemblies. Came out pretty nice after some messing around. Left on the table was the LCD panel with the flexible circuitboard and a thick chunk of dotted transparent plastic inside - better cover that up so I don't get crap in there. Cut a plastic bag open and put it on top.

Needed the white plastic to come off, it's folded on the sides which was a bit annoying and also attached with a small piece of double sided tape so I got a crease there - that's going to bug me if it can be seen when it's back together...

Loosened wires from the plastic holder and could take the reflector piece with the three tubes out. First one looked maybe a little brown there on the thin return (so called cold) wires, I tried nudging the silicon holder, seemed to be glued...

Got the three tubes off the reflector by pushing some wire in through the first white silicon rubber holder so I'd get some slack on the three thin return wires which also had to be loosened from the tape and then I thought I was going to shorten the wire a bit and resolder all three of them - just to be sure. That's when I noticed this on the other tybe/reflector assembly in the image...

Isolation gone in the bend of two wires, blueish mark on the reflector metal, seems I have had some arcs here...

So I just cut all three wires, one of them broke loose as soon as I touched it. I cut maybe 10mm, removed the white silicon rubber from the tubes - which is apparently impossible to do in one piece. No worries though I'll sort it out...

Cleaned the leftover wires from the metal pins of the tubes, they were originally twisted around the pin and formed a nice little circle. I just soldered all three wires straight on, covered it with silicon and stuffed the cap back on. I guess I'll have to wait until tomorrow to try it out.

I did notice some small cracks in the insulation of some of the return wires, at the bends, where they had been mounted in the white plastic holder on the back of the panel. So in retrospect, replacing those six wires is not a bad idea. Don't know if they cracked first and then started arcing or because of something else but it seems to be crappy wire, wonder why they didn't use silicon insulated wire like the thicker one? More expensive maybe?

Some cable with teflon insulation maybe that can take the heat and a little thicker (gauge) cable, as much as can fit. I only had 0.08 sqrmm wire with PVC insulation, it seemed a little thinner than the original and I'm not sure PVC is good in that heat.

Anyway, I'll probably loosen the thin return wires that are damaged and put some shrink tubing on them, hope that helps, maybe put some tape on any metal in the vicinity to prevent arcing... If the problem is solved I'll probably leave it - those end caps on the tubes is a real killer...
But if I can't handle knowing about the poor wiring - maybe I'll order some cable and these replacement end caps:
http://www.ccfldirect.com/unfitsica.html

[selldoor]

Re: Samsung 215tw display cuts out

Its too much to read - are you asking a question or need help with anything?

[stj]

Re: Samsung 215tw display cuts out

i read it,
he re-wired the tubes and is waiting for his sealant to cure.

next he will come back and say if the backlight works.

then i will tell him he should have just fitted an led kit!