I first replaced all the tiny capacitors because their values seemed a bit high on my Dick Smith ESR meter, measured in situ
Hope dashed for a quick easy fix - power LED still blinked
I then replaced remaining capacitors, although only the four around IC BIT3105P measured high ESR in situ
Replacements purchased from local specialist electronics supplier's low ESR category, most of the bigger ones being Hitano
Power LED still blinks, although less frequently than original
Repeated cycle of staying on for about 7 seconds, then going off for about half a second
Accompanied by faint tick which seems to be coming from the area around the LED itself
Help appreciated
Attached Files
better to keep quiet and be thought a fool, than to open your mouth and remove all doubt
The ticking sound can mean the power supply is detecting fault so It goes into shurdown - restart cycle, or it has a hard time starting up. Did you also replace the start up caps?
Well, I do not know which one you are referring to: "I first replaced all the tiny capacitors because their values seemed a bit high", if you did, then next thing will be to see if the loads are shorted or not by running the board without the main board connected, this power supply-inverter board is always running when you apply the power.
Check the DC voltage at the output of the secondary rectifier to see if it still pulsing, the shorted circuits can be in the imverter section due to shorted MOSFET's.
The symptom you have is the same as LGl1715S: http://s807.photobucket.com/albums/y...G/LG%20L1715S/
My expertise isn't electronics, so I'm learning (I hope) as I go, and appreciate your patience
Please don't misinterpret my post #4, it was a genuine question not a smart arse comment
Your photobucket album looks good - need some time to give it the attention it deserves
I didn't try powering the FSP board on its own, because I didn't know whether it needed to be switched on or not, like an ATX motherboard
And because the power switch is on the little controls board that connects to what I think of as the video board - is that what you call the main board ?
better to keep quiet and be thought a fool, than to open your mouth and remove all doubt
The power supply-inverter board is always on 24/7 the minute you plug it into the wall socket. The power switch just turn off the inverter circuits and the power to the T-CON board.
Check the DC voltage at the output of the secondary rectifier to see if it still pulsing
Will need some hand-holding to do this - is secondary rectifier mounted on the heatsink surrounding the four caps, in the bottom left corner of picture ?
I will let Budm answer that in the meantime perhaps measure the voltages on the connector between the power board and the main board.
Have everything connected up and switched off meter on 200vdc put black probe on a ground screw and check each pin on the connector with the red probe. As you have pulsing keep the test going to see if the pulsing shows
in the voltages. Then repeat with it switched on.
If you have a pin called pson or p on test this pin again but hold the probes on the pin with it off then switch it on with the probes in place ( may need help with that) and report wht happens.
After pressing assembly's power button, LED lights up then ticks off after about 7 seconds, for about half a second, repeats that cycle
5v = steady 4.86 until tick off, re-initializes briefly at 4.94, settles at 4.86
On/Off = steady .065 - best I can tell, maintains that through tick off
12v settles at 13.37 - after tick off re-initializes briefly at 12.14, then 13.3something, climbs by .01 until reaches 13.39, drops back to 13.37, where it stays until tick off
Attached Files
better to keep quiet and be thought a fool, than to open your mouth and remove all doubt
That ON/OFF voltage reading does not look right, I expect to see >3VDC for the inverter to turn on. By the way, when you are testing these voltages, do you have all the backlights lamps connected?
Please take the resistance readings of the MOSFETS.
PS. In my 2 seconds guide, I wrote a procedure on how to test a mosfet for a short. I suggest you take a look and retest the other mosfets to get all possible combinations with reference to the linked datasheet for AO4600.
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I would change them in pair, might as well order at least 4.
When you finished installing the new IC, do not turn on the board without having the lamps connected, it will put out big high voltage (1500~2000V) arc at the lamp connectors when it try to start up.
Sorry budm, mindful of your suggestion, but I couldn't face the prospect of replacing U2 & U3 whose measurements indicated they were probably functional - what with lifting U5's pad, and if it ain't broke ...
Reassemble it so I can plug in the backlights lamps, then the acid test, power it on ...
... steady green LED, not going Off & On, hmmm promising ...
... connect it to a computer, and hallelujah there's an image
Thanks again for your help budm, retiredcaps and selldoor - without it, definitely would not have been a successful outcome
Attached Files
better to keep quiet and be thought a fool, than to open your mouth and remove all doubt
This is the set of Capxons I replaced early on, each of which coincides with an AO4600
Is it fair to blame the Capxons for the demise of the AO4600 ?
With the wisdom of hindsight, I probably should have waited for better caps instead of using brandX (can't recall actual brand) from local specialist electronics supplier's low ESR category
Finally this question
I have some Rubycon YXF 47uf 63v in transit
Could I use those in lieu of the brandX 47uf 25v with which I replaced the original Capxon ?
Attached Files
better to keep quiet and be thought a fool, than to open your mouth and remove all doubt
but I couldn't face the prospect of replacing U2 & U3 whose measurements indicated they were probably functional - what with lifting U5's pad, and if it ain't broke ...
Now that everyting is working, it is a good time to ohm out U5 and see where the lifted pin has continuity to. That way, if the superglue fix doesn't work over time, you can then run a jumper wire from the U5 pin directly to the ohmed out component.
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