Re: Dummy loads for amplifier fault finding
Quick note.. I've found many suitable resistors on Aliexpress.
Like this: https://tinyurl.com/2p8tau9t
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Re: Dummy loads for amplifier fault finding
Many thanks all,
Regarding finding something suitable & cheapish what search term should I use?
Also are there any particular far east vendors?Leave a comment:
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Re: Dummy loads for amplifier fault finding
As frequencies go up, the harder it is to make a dummy load. DC is easiest, audio slightly harder, uhf is tough, microwave is really tough...
inductance in power resistors are lower than actual audio speakers...Leave a comment:
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Re: Dummy loads for amplifier fault finding
Lets say a 1000W and 8ohms. Not sure about the speed...Leave a comment:
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Re: Dummy loads for amplifier fault finding
How many gigawatts? How many ohms? How long to reach 88MPH?
Appliance heating elements can be used as long as the heat can be dissipated. An empty kettle, or space heater with no fan, is no good for longer periods.
Most heating elements are quite non-linear for resistance. Cold will be a fair bit lower in resistance than hot.
Also they have some inductance, especially the coil on coil wound ones, just like wire-wound resistors so I add RC snubber top prevent amplifier damage.
Many people are buying the cheap power resistors out of china.Leave a comment:
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Dummy loads for amplifier fault finding
Hi All,
I'm looking at upgrading my load resistors for power amplifier diagnostics and have a few questions:
1. is it possible to use e.g. a kettle element as a load?
and at the other end of the financial spectrum..
2. Electronic loads - would they work?
3. What's the gold standard method?
Many thanks.Last edited by Nevillet; 05-25-2022, 12:49 PM.
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I have here a Magnum IA.100 which belongs to my parents.
The unit powers on & when the relay kicks in, you get a pop from the speakers (this might sound weird but is usual behavior for this amp). However, you get nothing coming through it from any of the inputs & no pops and crackls from any of the controls.
Because of the sound from the speaker when the amp turns on I have assumed that the output section probably works but I could be wrong & I'm not sure how to test that side of things further.
What Ive done........01-01-2025, 01:26 PM -
- Prior owner tried a replacement main board. No difference.
- Samsung 2x red blinking standby LED = panel fault
- Jumpered FB_TRDY_1 (pin 1 CN1300 left. main tcon->left side buffer boards) and FB_TRDY_3 (pin 95 CN1301 right. main tcon->right side buffer boards) This allows testing individual T-Con (on main board) connection to panel on this Samsung. Found fault on left side (viewing from rear of TV)
- Each side has 2 buffer boards, disconnected left side flex between 2 buffer boards. Fault is on the left most board.
- Tape masking eventually isolated to CN1300 pin 15 (CKV4_GOA) Display
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I have been having a fun time at work with two pieces of equipment that had shorted components or shorted component cables to machine frame
I would check what my multi meter was telling me about how many ohms I getting with the multi meter was telling versus the ESR was telling me about weather or not it really was a short to machine ground or not
One note at first we thought that it might be a bad I/O card or a malfunction PLC including me as well but I thought I would try and see if removing the I/O cables would make a difference or not and this time it did make a difference... -
My childhood best friend was killed about 9 years ago. His parents are finally letting go of his things, and they offered me his Polk RTi100 tower speakers. The Polk RTi100 towers are one of a handful of designs from the early 2000s that is a full range 3-way tower with a built-in self-powered subwoofer. This is accomplished with a plate amp integrated into the speaker input panel.
I think they used them for a while, but they've been sitting for at least a few years now. After about 40 hours of driving to their house and back (both they and I have moved in the last 9 years) I got... -
Hi, people.
I've got an amplifier assembly from Mackie CR4 parts. It's just an amplifier, there was no speaker housing, so I used my set of CR4s to test it.
Anyway, upon connecting everything and hooking the "new" amplifier to an audio source, the sound played clearly and strongly for the first ten seconds. I was happy it was working. Then the sound started to fade out during the playback until it was no more. After it had "dropped to zero", there were two very short intervals of sound playing at the normal volume, as if the amplifier was trying to...
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