LED driver board, orient electric, 7W

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  • claws77
    Senior Member
    • Apr 2024
    • 97
    • India

    #1

    LED driver board, orient electric, 7W

    datasheet= https://www.alldatasheet.com/datashe...C/SIC9753.html
    i have tried to make the schematic similar to typical application
    A1 = varistor
    V_C5 _measured wrt -ve = 57-60V pulsating DC, VDD_measured wrt GND_IC = 12-14, VDD_measured wrt -ve = 60-62V pulsating, V_Drain wrt -ve =309V,
    1. L2 is unknown, how to measure inductance with multimeter?
    2. what is happening after rectification and varistor? what does this IC do? how does it provide constant current ?
    3. R8 36Kohm is to discharge the capacitor C5 100uF only, right?
    4. how to test if this IC is faulty?
    Attached Files
  • stj
    Great Sage 齊天大聖
    • Dec 2009
    • 30997
    • Albion

    #2
    it's an online buck convertor,
    A1 is a VDR to supress spikes

    R8 is to provide a load if the leds fail so the voltage doesnt spike really high,
    you cant read the inductor with a multimeter
    Last edited by stj; 09-29-2024, 07:57 PM.

    Comment

    • claws77
      Senior Member
      • Apr 2024
      • 97
      • India

      #3
      thanks, how to test if IC is faulty.

      Comment

      • stj
        Great Sage 齊天大聖
        • Dec 2009
        • 30997
        • Albion

        #4
        test the leds and replace c4

        Comment

        • claws77
          Senior Member
          • Apr 2024
          • 97
          • India

          #5
          LEDs are fine.
          this is a bypass capacitor so can i replace it with any higher value for capacitance and rated voltage
          the current one on board is 4.7uF and 50V

          Comment

          • claws77
            Senior Member
            • Apr 2024
            • 97
            • India

            #6
            i have 4.7 uF and 400 V and 10 uF & 63 V

            Comment

            • stj
              Great Sage 齊天大聖
              • Dec 2009
              • 30997
              • Albion

              #7
              10uf is better
              and check the diodes
              the fact it's pulsing means it's trying to run.

              Comment

              • claws77
                Senior Member
                • Apr 2024
                • 97
                • India

                #8
                nothing

                Comment

                • claws77
                  Senior Member
                  • Apr 2024
                  • 97
                  • India

                  #9
                  i have succesfully blown the input (AC) side of the rectifier.

                  Comment

                  • stj
                    Great Sage 齊天大聖
                    • Dec 2009
                    • 30997
                    • Albion

                    #10
                    how?
                    is c3 shorted?

                    Comment

                    • claws77
                      Senior Member
                      • Apr 2024
                      • 97
                      • India

                      #11
                      no, i was working on metal plate, and there was some movement and the live wire touched the plate and near the soldered joint and back plate of LED (heatsink) made a connection. i think.

                      R1, R2, L1, and the first LED(only) was blown(open) so i replaced them all only for them be blown again (this time i made sure everything was insulated) maybe something else is shorted too. hope its not the IC.

                      Can i not use this LED circuit without input filtering. if i am unable to find the right parts.

                      Comment

                      • stj
                        Great Sage 齊天大聖
                        • Dec 2009
                        • 30997
                        • Albion

                        #12
                        the only input filtering is R2 and L1

                        Comment

                        • claws77
                          Senior Member
                          • Apr 2024
                          • 97
                          • India

                          #13
                          my bad R1 is a fuse, kind off.

                          Comment

                          • CapLeaker
                            Leaking Member
                            • Dec 2014
                            • 8133
                            • Canada

                            #14
                            If R1, R2 and L1 blow up all the time, either your bridge rectifier D1 to D4 is shorted or A1 is shorted. Check them out first. Sure you can take L1 out and solder an and replace R2 with a 1 Ohm resistor (fusible resistor fireproof) or similar.

                            Comment

                            • eccerr0r
                              Solder Sloth
                              • Nov 2012
                              • 8701
                              • USA

                              #15
                              check the resistance between drain and GND of the IC, if that is shorted, replace IC. I think when you shorted the plate to mains and killed everything the first time you probably backfed power into the IC and killed it... though do check the diodes D1-D4. I don't think anything else would cause repeated fusing of R1/R2.

                              By the sound of the symptoms you probably just had a weak LED to begin with that was causing the flickering...

                              Comment

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