Help with some old electric fencers
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Last edited by goontron; 02-05-2015, 06:46 PM.Things I've fixed: anything from semis to crappy Chinese $2 radios, and now an IoT Dildo....
"Dude, this is Wyoming, i hopped on and sent 'er. No fucking around." -- Me
Excuse me while i do something dangerous
You must have a sad, sad boring life if you hate on people harmlessly enjoying life with an animal costume.
Sometimes you need to break shit to fix it.... Thats why my lawnmower doesn't have a deadman switch or engine brake anymore
Follow the white rabbit. -
Re: Help with some old electric fencers
Alright then where would I find new caps with these ratings?
I looked on mouser but they didn't have any.canadaboy25
-Sometimes the light at the end of a tunnel is an on-coming trainComment
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Re: Help with some old electric fencers
You'll need .27u to replace the .25u, that's closer to the original than a modern .22u. 630V instead of 600V.
The .1u is a standard value.
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...b2bFD7PeCRw%3d
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...CxRS5rw3jA0%3d"pokemon go... to hell!"
EOL it...
Originally posted by shango066All style and no substance.Originally posted by smashstuff30guilty,guilty,guilty,guilty!
guilty of being cheap-made!Comment
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Re: Help with some old electric fencers
So the extra 0.02uf won't cause me any problems?canadaboy25
-Sometimes the light at the end of a tunnel is an on-coming trainComment
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Re: Help with some old electric fencers
It's only 8 percent higher. The old caps were something on the order of 20 percent tolerance."pokemon go... to hell!"
EOL it...
Originally posted by shango066All style and no substance.Originally posted by smashstuff30guilty,guilty,guilty,guilty!
guilty of being cheap-made!Comment
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Re: Help with some old electric fencers
Ok then I'll order some caps next time I'm ordering from mouser.canadaboy25
-Sometimes the light at the end of a tunnel is an on-coming trainComment
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Channel: Visitor Messages
12-28-2023, 02:09 PM -
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by fuzzy4Hi all,
I have this electric tin opener and the part that moves the can round (1st picture), doesn't move, I can hear the motor turning, but no movement, there's something rattling inside, so presume a piece of plastic has broken, or come loose.
Took the bottom plate off, but left with this (3rd picture), any ideas how to get inside?
Thanks.... -
by wnlewisOK. I got the rocker switch figured out thanks to the good advice on this forum.
Now I need to figure out the correct wire to go to the switch from the broiler element and from the oven element.
This is a Whirlpool RDE3340 electric range.
The common wire on the switch appears to have a high temperature insulating material. I am guessing that both the wire to the broiler and the wire to the oven elements also need relatively high temperature insulation. What do I need to look for? The broiler is rated at about 2400 watts.
Where may I find parts... -
by wnlewisI am trying to track down a replacement rocker switch for a Whirlpool RDE3340W electric range.
The rocker switch was made by McGill under their part number 0801-1059 and supplied to Whirlpool by FSP under their part number 686605. Whirlpool's original part number was 865745.
The switch is an On-Off-On type (SPDT) designed for use with either 115 VAC or 230 VAC. It is not lighted.
Are there any current switches that could be substituted for this switch?
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by waveydaveyHello,
I have an electric stapler that has stopped working. It's a Challenge Xtreme brand (UK cheapie)
When I pull the trigger it is completely dead. I've traced the 230V which is present on the board so it is not a fuse/wiring issue.
I know these are often simple devices (basically a solenoid), but this one has some sort of anti-latching circuit, and I'd like to keep it standard instead of modifying/bypassing it completely.
I think there is a component that switches the solenoid on/off as part of the anti-latching circuit, and may have failed.... - Loading...
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