Help needed - Instrument cluster repair - Ford

[Petar92]

Hello guys! I know this might not be the stuff you see every day, but I know this is the place with ppl who know this stuff.

I have trouble diagnosing the fault on this instrument cluster. When +12v is applied to pins of the white connector, this IC (marked red ) gets hot within seconds. I have already tried to replace it with another one, same deal. The IC is Infineon TLE 62366
As I dont have much experience, but know some basic stuff, soldering etc. I would appreciate any pointers to what to seach, what and how to check.

Thanks in advance!

[pdblues2231]

Hi,
Diagnosing those boards is a pain in the neck..however, you can check the basics. have you checked those capacitors for any shorts and also check the input to the cluster make sure the voltages are correct. BTW what is the problem with the board and are those burn marks by connectors?

[Petar92]

Thanks for answering pdblues2231 !
The pointers wont move, there is no backlight... I have tested most if not all capacitors for continuity, no shorts there.
Those are pen marks, as I was marking the pins. Then I applied freeze spray to see where the short is, thats how I saw the ic getting hot instantly, and got my pen marks all messed up

[pdblues2231]

hummm
when you say that you tested caps for Continuity what exactly do you mean.. caps should not have continuity across their terminals like a wire does. I don't believe the ic is the problem as you already changed it and yield same results. That IC is some kind of smart switch. Check voltages coming into board.

[stj]

you need a datasheet for the chip,
what happened to the connector, why does it look like soot in that area?

[truclacicr]

https://www.badcaps.net/download/?id=e00b551d

Pin 24 is the output of an internal 5V regulator. I would check for a short to ground at this pin.

[Petar92]

hummm
when you say that you tested caps for Continuity what exactly do you mean.. caps should not have continuity across their terminals like a wire does. I don't believe the ic is the problem as you already changed it and yield same results. That IC is some kind of smart switch. Check voltages coming into board.

Yup, I used continuity mode on my multimeter as I dont have one with capacitance, and check if there are caps which are shorted through. none were. I will, thanks for help!!

[Petar92]

https://www.badcaps.net/download/?id=e00b551d

Pin 24 is the output of an internal 5V regulator. I would check for a short to ground at this pin.

i think this is wrong datasheet, tle 62366 is my IC.

[Petar92]

you need a datasheet for the chip,
what happened to the connector, why does it look like soot in that area?

just explained a bit up the thread. just pen markings i did to label the pins. I have a datasheet, but unsure what should be the next step.

[truclacicr]

i think this is wrong datasheet, tle 62366 is my IC.

Sorry.

[CapLeaker]

That big cap you took out, where the marking D70 is, one leg looks like you made a solder bridge. Second pic, top, next to the AX120xxxxxx chip.

[Agent24]

That big cap you took out, where the marking D70 is, one leg looks like you made a solder bridge. Second pic, top, next to the AX120xxxxxx chip.

Isn't that just the tear-drop style pad they've used?

[CapLeaker]

Isn't that just the tear-drop style pad they've used?

To me it looks like the trace is shorted to the GND and way too much solder there.

[Petar92]

That big cap you took out, where the marking D70 is, one leg looks like you made a solder bridge. Second pic, top, next to the AX120xxxxxx chip.

That is oem solder spot, didnt touch that. Those are pins from capacitor on the other side.

[pdblues2231]

How far have you gotten with this?? Any progress??

[Petar92]

How far have you gotten with this?? Any progress??

Hello!

got a replacement unit to eliminate issues with car. replacement works fine.
swapped main cpu of original unit to replacement to get correct odometer on replacement unit.

I could now play with original unit that is faulty, but no ideas what to try next.

Best regards

[Petar92]

UPDATE !
New cluster with old cpu that I swapped now wont work.. So I guess we found the main source of fault. I am now going to swap back new cpu to new cluster, to see if it works like it did last week when I tested positive..

[pdblues2231]

Ahh, I guess process of elimination also works. Just be careful the old cluster may damage the new cpu. and sometimes these cluster will marry certain components..

[Petar92]

Ahh, I guess process of elimination also works. Just be careful the old cluster may damage the new cpu. and sometimes these cluster will marry certain components..

yup, thats just what happened....
after i installed new cluster with original mcu swapped, the cluster didnt work, and after 10-15 seconds the backlight and lcd died....
so i guess i burned replacement cluster by soldering old mcu onto it.

I just resoldered the mcu the replacement came with back, and got same results on the bench. on initial powerup, turns on shortly, then lcd looses info, then backlight slowly dies, all within 10-15 seconds.
Switch off then on causes backlight to come on dim for a second then dies.. it lasts shroter every time I cycle the power.


now im ready to go straight to ford and order new cluster no matter the cost... unless anyone have any suggestions what could be fried..

[pdblues2231]

Unfortunately that's how all modern electronics are. The BCM controls all of this so without the proper software and programming tools it simply can't be done. these are smart chips and switches and they will not work without programming. All required data such as odometer, theft deterrent and lighting must be programmed. The cluster may still be good just needs to be reprogrammed for your vehicle.. good luck