Re: Should I use this solder?
that wont work for audio gear, he will end up broke and owning crap.
that wont work for audio gear, he will end up broke and owning crap.
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Re: Should I use this solder?
monster oxygen free cables!Comment
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Re: Should I use this solder?
thats obsolete,
the latest audio cables have polarised metalic particles so the current runs at lower losses in a specific direction!
whoever thought we would reach the point of having directional copper wire!!!Comment
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Re: Should I use this solder?
Musicians are broke. That's why they use old (free) solder. But, this English-made Ersin has been working fine, so far.Comment
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Re: Should I use this solder?
If it wicks well and makes a good solder joint that doesn't look like dried bird shit, I don't care what the label says or how old the solder is.
And BTW, I have some 30-40 year old rosin-core solder from my uncle and my dad from back when they used to do some soldering many moons ago... and it still works fine. Occasionally, I've found some newer lead-free PCBs to not seem to like it / reject it and likewise, I've found sold old PCB reject newer PB-free solders... so I just go case-by-case (usually, it's the latter, though.) If one solder doesn't seem to work, I switch it out. Standard rosin 60/40 seems to work fine for just about everything, though.Comment
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Re: Should I use this solder?
rejection of the metal is down to the flux.
there are many flux formula's - more than metal formula's
you dont really need rosin, but you do want Halide in it even though they want to reduce or get rid of it.
halide makes solder bind to things like brass.
the best electronics flux-cores i have found are HS10 and Krystal511 from stannol
both are also in other makers solder.
HS10 is a blend of rosin and synthetic,
krystal511 is 100% synthetic and is crystal clear with no coloured tint - so you can leave it on the board and it hardly shows.Comment
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Re: Should I use this solder?
I play guitar, especially fingerstyle acoustic. Also electric, classical & bass. I don't play for a living, it's practically impossible. I build & repair instruments. And I've recorded soundtracks for a few indy films.Comment
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Re: Should I use this solder?
Bohemian life , I like that .. Well , If you wanna be famous , you could always try Hollywood like once a carpenter Harisson Ford did or join live tours bands like Eagles doing now , right ?.
I have what they call musical ear , I once bought a drums .. 3 days later , there was a huge protest ifo my house , demanding a drums surrender , lol . That was it , so I joined a FM station and got into Electronics consequently ..
Thanks for the reply .Comment
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Hello, I'm a beginner for micro soldering. Right now I have some difficult to solder a qfn 20, I guess I put too much solder on the thermal-ground pad, the result is a corner of chip wich don't touch the board (last try).
I use a wire solder with hot air, I tin the board and chip before with iron and I use good flux.
I will have to solder a LVDS connector (40 pins, laptop pc), I saw a solder paste in seringe, good quality (it does not scatter).
See the test :
https://youtu.be/bNAzC-EvqHs?t=1767
With hot air from bellow the board, that's... -
Can someone recommend any good UV solder mask? But i need a solder mask that will stand high temperetures. The thing is...sometimes i have a bigger cooper ripped from the board, lets say mosfet pad... i reconstract it with cooper sheet, then i "glue it" with solder mask...then i use UV light...and let it cool a bit. After, i try to clean the cooper of extra solder mask..and till that part all is ok. But, when i use a soldering iron to solder that pad/cooper...the solder mask gets weaker or destroyed and finally the pad is ripped again from the board .
Is there any solder mask... -
So I though in my spare time I’d set myself up repairing motherboards mainly pin damaged lga1151 sockets types.
I’m using an achi ir sc pro rework station (gave up on my Achie ir6500 - don’t recommend)
I’ve managed to get my rework profile somewhere in the correct region (after a lot of trial and error) to get the old sockets off and reflow new ones back on again, the problems I’m getting is not all of the solder balls are re-attaching when re-flow occurs. I know this because when socket is removed pads still look clean and have no solder... -
This is a guide that I am writing for helping others to replace their MEC1503 EC chip if it breaks (or to get around an inconvenient prompt to the BIOS). This forum has been extremely helpful to me so I would like to contribute to help others. I will tell you right now that this task is very difficult to do. You MUST have experience and tools to do precision micro-soldering, BGA reballing, trace repair, and general laptop repair skills.
There are some specialty tools needed to do this task. The replacement MEC1503 chips can be acquired from Aliexpress. Do not buy the bare chips as... -
I'm trying to fix a broken MacBook Air, and got a parts board to salvage components from. Following the suggestions of many folks here, I wanted to get in a little practice of using my hot air station (A Quick 957DW+) on the parts board so I know what kind of behavior to expect.
For the life of me, I can't get anything done with this thing. I have tried multiple temperatures (from 210-425c), different air speeds, preheating the board (with the hot air, just warming it all around). I have applied what feels like excessive amounts of flux (Amtech V2-TF-559) and the solder on these components...
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