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For a beginner, not too bad. I’ve seen much worse. A lot worse! Keep practicing! Also try small stuff. Maybe try cleaning and put chip back on, etc. Everyone has to start somewhere.
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I tried heating the Realtek chip on the switch from the other side of the PCB and it was removed nicely.
I found some chips on the old MB and it was much better (although I'm still not satisfied). I am adding a few photosAttached FilesLeave a comment:
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Either with a preheater or with another hot air gun. Just to take it off, there is another technique where you cut the legs from the IC off with an exacto knife, then you can drill into the middle of the IC and expose the metal it is heatsink end to on the bottom. Once you are there take a good soldering iron or a soldering gun and a bit of fresh solder and it will come right off like nobody’s business.Leave a comment:
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Yes, it can be desoldered. The proper way is to use bottom preheater arround 120-150 deg C and when board is set on desired temp attack from top side with hotair gun 300-350. When you practice, the goal is to build experiance regard to your equpment can do or cant do, and to do good desoldering with undamaged ic, pcb board and other surrounding parts and component. Do not fokus only to desolder ic... it is easy if you plan destroy everything else.Leave a comment:
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Ah, that's why I had problems. I chose the wrong learning chip. But I wonder if this chip can also be removed. Would heating from the other side of the plate help?Leave a comment:
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Yes, I see... you choose wrong chip to practice with, on back side he have ground plate pad who is soldered on huge ground plane over whole pcb board and suck heat badly...Attached FilesLeave a comment:
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Everything went wrong for me. I used solder with a 38% pb content at home, but I still couldn't remove the chip from the board.
I changed the tip of the hot air soldering iron from 4mm to 8mm. I set the air flow to the minimum.
BTW, I removed the other smd components without problems.Leave a comment:
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After a while, the board started to change color, but the solder still didn't melt... it has melted long time ago regard to blowing arrounded components off. You probably use a small nozle, and trying to desolder big chip... take a nozzle out, and do narrow circle above chip legs in 1 Hz frequency. 350 is fine, but be sure that enough airflow is used. Do not lift chip before all pads are melted othervise you ended with ripped pads. Post photo with results and conclusion to motivate, encourige and help other who just start.Leave a comment:
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The lead free solder has a higher melting point than the leaded solder. Put some leaded or low melt solder on the pins first then desolder the whole thing. You may have used a small nozzle, that would do it too. Take the small nozzle off and hold that hot air 1” above the chip.
Holding the hot air for too long on the PCB will separate the PCB layers too and a bubble will form underneath.Leave a comment:
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Juist as a test : change the air flow to some lower quantity, and put a piece of solder on top of the chip. Then try dessoldering it, and watch for when the solder melts. Maybe your station is not producing air with the configured temperature.
As a comparison : a chip like that is free here with the station at 450C in less than a minute.Leave a comment:
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i would run some 60/40 leaded solder around the pins then get the hot air on it .
and watch the other tiny things dont blow away like the 6 i can see right away . might be best to use kapton tape to mask them off .Last edited by petehall347; 10-08-2024, 12:22 PM.Leave a comment:
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I am attaching a photo. I have many devices that I can learn from 😊Attached FilesLeave a comment:
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How do I remove the chip from the board
I am new to hot air soldering. I need to remove one chip from the board. I have a hot air solder and I set the temperature to 350°C. I slowly started heating the chip, but the solder didn't melt. I heated it for about 5 minutes, but the solder still wouldn't melt. I increased the temperature to 450˚C and still nothing. After a while, the board started to change color, but the solder still didn't melt.
Fortunately, I'm testing it on old network switches to see how it works.
What am I doing wrong?
I've seen a lot of videos on youtube and everyone got the solder melted and the chip was easy to remove from the board.
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This is a guide that I am writing for helping others to replace their MEC1503 EC chip if it breaks (or to get around an inconvenient prompt to the BIOS). This forum has been extremely helpful to me so I would like to contribute to help others. I will tell you right now that this task is very difficult to do. You MUST have experience and tools to do precision micro-soldering, BGA reballing, trace repair, and general laptop repair skills.
There are some specialty tools needed to do this task. The replacement MEC1503 chips can be acquired from Aliexpress. Do not buy the bare chips as... -
Problem
This is an LG edge LED lit LCD Display. The LEDs are on the bottom edge of the display. There are 2 bars (left and right) Each bar has many LEDs and a 6 pin connector. Each pin drive several LEDs thus is the highest current flow / heat junction. The weak lead free solder gradually fails with thermal expansion/contraction cycling and increases resistance. PSU will compensate up to a point, then when the current is too high, PSU just shut down the backlight causing a dark display. I have even seen one which the connector just fell off as solder points became completely detached.... -
Vizio e601i-A3 - Has Sound and Display, But No Backlight - Bad Power Supply Board or Bad LED Bulbs ?I was given this TV from my great uncle. He said it just wouldn't turn on one day out of nowhere, replaced the TV, and gave it to me to possibly fix and use for myself.
Upon bringing it home and plugging it up, it showed a standby light.
I powered it on and without a flashlight, the display showed the "V" but the lighting is very dim, but visible.
The screen seems to blackout and stay black, but with a flashlight I can see the display.
With my Playstation 4 connected via HDMI, and running a game I can hear sound.
Assuming... -
Hello:
I have both these laptops that appeared to have the same fault so I thought I would have a go at replacing the PCH as something to learn, they both are using the same PCH.
I started on the ACER:
Up on connecting power no signs of life but current is consumed from the bench power supply and the PCH is hot.
All the caps on the top of the PCH are showing 0 ohms and the 3.3v rail is shorted.
I followed the videos from Sorin, Electronics Repair School on Youtube heating from the bottom to install. I practised on around 10 scrap... -
As the title states, got one CD3215 chip being a complete butthole to me. All readings on the other 3 chips read as follows
5.16V .47amp
5.16V .47amp
5.16V .47amp
5.16V .04amp (this guy is the issue) (U3200)
So I went ahead and replaced the chip, (actually 3 times with 3 new CD3215 chips) all same issue, at first it wasn't reading at all then it finally started reading. I can rest assured is it not the CD3215 chip now but something else is causing this port to not fully read (god I wish the board would just turn on so we can just recover the data)
...
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