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**retiredcaps** · 02-23-2012, 05:41 PM

Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37 I May Have Made my Problem Worse

1) My own opionion on this particular model is that there are multiple problems with it. I don't have this model, but helped enough people to know the problems.

i) The first is obviously all the Capxon crap quality caps on both the power and main/logic board that die under heat.

ii) This TV runs temperature hot.

iii) The zener diodes are prone to dying causing the SMPS power supply not to come on. You can check them as per instructions on the other multiple threads.

2) I would order 2 or 3 fuses just in case.

3) The cap replacements you chose are fine.

4) Sometime fuses go open due to heat, stress, and/or fatigue.

**m1dp** · 03-01-2012, 12:33 PM

Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37 I May Have Made my Problem Worse

thanks for the reply! i lost my debit card so i haven't ordered the parts yet but i am just going to order the diodes you said with the fuse and just replace i will post with the results later

**m1dp** · 03-05-2012, 02:09 PM

Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37 I May Have Made my Problem Worse

fuse popped as soon as power was turned on to surge protector. i have two more replacements and no ideas, will somebody help me? there is one mofset chip that is not giving me signs of continutiy on any of the 3 pins is there a way to test these?

**retiredcaps** · 03-05-2012, 04:26 PM

Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37 I May Have Made my Problem Worse

Post clear focused top down view pictures of all your boards (both sides) following the instructions in my sig file in post #2 EXACTLY.

**budm** · 03-05-2012, 04:46 PM

Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37 I May Have Made my Problem Worse

Chassis number of this TV so we can look up the service manual for it?

**selldoor** · 03-06-2012, 11:56 AM

Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37 I May Have Made my Problem Worse

This set has featured on here before service manual is here:

**m1dp** · 03-07-2012, 01:55 PM

Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37 I May Have Made my Problem Worse

got pics!

Attached Files

**m1dp** · 03-07-2012, 02:28 PM

Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37 I May Have Made my Problem Worse

more

Attached Files

**retiredcaps** · 03-07-2012, 03:56 PM

Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37 I May Have Made my Problem Worse

Originally posted by m1dp View Post

fuse popped as soon as power was turned on to surge protector.

1) Circled in red is what I think is your power mosfet. Circled in blue is your bridge rectifier. Check both of them for shorts.

2) For the power mosfet, number the pins 1, 2, and 3. Measure the resistance between pins 1-2, 1-3, and 2-3. Any reading under 30 ohms suggests a short and must be desoldered and retested out of circuit.

3) For the bridge rectifier, number the pins 1, 2, 3, and 4. Measure the resistance between pins 1-2, 1-3, 1-4, 2-3, 2-4, and 3-4. Any reading under 30 ohms suggests a short and must be desoldered and retested out of circuit.

4) I noticed you didn't replace ALL the electrolytic caps on the power board. I see green Lelon and possible more small Capxon caps.

Attached Files

**Lobo** · 03-08-2012, 08:17 AM

Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37 I May Have Made my Problem Worse

I really didn't want to start yet another thread on this bunk TV, so I figured I'd post here on the most recent and closely related. Regarding the power supply.

So I have the exact same TV and I've been looking over the service manual. All the caps I compared to the service manual's Recommended/replacement parts list, and the ones one the actual board seem to match up correctly as far as uf, V, and size are concerned...except one. It's a big fat Lelon.

On the actual PSU board it's

Lelon LSG
220uf
450V
D 35mm x H 30mm

In the service manual, the spare part list says it should be

180uf
450 V
D 30mm x H 31mm

Besides the fact that it's a Lelon cap, could this be the root of all our problems?

**selldoor** · 03-08-2012, 09:31 AM

Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37 I May Have Made my Problem Worse

@Lobo - I wouldnt have thought so- in any case there may have been revisions since the schematic was produced. - Was the Lelon in from new?
You could change it and see if it helps?

**Lobo** · 03-08-2012, 04:34 PM

Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37 I May Have Made my Problem Worse

The cap is the one that was originally on the board. It's the only one I haven't replaced yet. I've tested it and it seems good to me. At least I think I'm reading the Lelon datasheet right. (google translator doesn't really do a good job with their website) It's just that the size and uF don't match up with what's on the schematic.

**m1dp** · 03-11-2012, 02:57 PM

Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37 I May Have Made my Problem Worse

the power mosfet you circled is 4 pins, the bridge rectifier is two pins.
will you please tell me what setting to use for ohms? i am only getting results from the continuty beep setting. also notice the smudge on the big brown lelon does it look bad to you and can that be the fuse popper?

Attached Files

**budm** · 03-11-2012, 06:45 PM

Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37 I May Have Made my Problem Worse

I think the one in RED circle is the Bridge rectifier (4 pins), and the blue with 2 pins is the AC line filter cap.

**retiredcaps** · 03-11-2012, 07:57 PM

Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37 I May Have Made my Problem Worse

Originally posted by m1dp View Post

the power mosfet you circled is 4 pins, the bridge rectifier is two pins.
will you please tell me what setting to use for ohms?

Arrgh, let's try this again. It is hard to tell from the angle of the photo and I can't read the pcb designations.

1) In purple, I think that is the bridge rectifier.

2) In green, I think that is the power mosfet.

3) Set your multimeter to 200 (two hundred) ohms.

See the section on multimeter below

https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showpo...4&postcount=19

and mistakes

https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showpo...2&postcount=31

Attached Files

**m1dp** · 03-13-2012, 01:21 PM

Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37 I May Have Made my Problem Worse

i removed the power mosfet you circled in green and was getting jumpy readings with the 200 ohms setting. I noticed on the pcb in front of the chip is a voltage drop sign so i adjusted to the 2k ohms with voltage drop setting and got no change one way and a reading of .454 ohms the other.

Attached Files

**m1dp** · 03-13-2012, 04:36 PM

Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37 I May Have Made my Problem Worse

I now removed the bridge rectifier and like the mosfet am getting jumpy readings do thes indicate shorts?

i've tried every pin combination. some do stay at, 1. ,with no change and others jump high then back to 1. on the 200 ohms setting. the only results i am getting that stay steady on are when i change the meter to 2k voltage drop. anyway you can clear this up for me so i can get the proper results you need

https://cdn.badcaps-static.com/pdfs/...8a934e8c25.pdf

**Mr Bill** · 03-13-2012, 07:18 PM

Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37 I May Have Made my Problem Worse

Originally posted by m1dp View Post

I now removed the bridge rectifier and like the mosfet am getting jumpy readings do thes indicate shorts?

i've tried every pin combination. some do stay at, 1. ,with no change and others jump high then back to 1. on the 200 ohms setting. the only results i am getting that stay steady on are when i change the meter to 2k voltage drop. anyway you can clear this up for me so i can get the proper results you need

https://cdn.badcaps-static.com/pdfs/...8a934e8c25.pdf

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dqkT6hF0O3E Here is a link on how to check a bridge rectifier. Your multimeter needs to be in the diode function (picture below).

The ??mosfet?? you removed actaully looks like a diode (marking on board) The mosfets might be the 2 chips behind that one with the 2 bands clipped on them. Can you get a photo of the 2 chips?

Also, I circled a chip on the backside of the power supply, can you make out the numbers on it. Its a real pain but sometimes you get lucky, a magnifying glass helps.

Attached Files

**Lobo** · 03-14-2012, 07:17 AM

Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37 I May Have Made my Problem Worse

I have the exact same TV and PSU and the best I can make out on the chip is
SG6961S7
B1AG2897728E
Hard to tell if the first digit in the second row is a "B" or an "8", I just guessed B.

Also, the "mosfet" is actually a diode.
STTH8L06FP
GK0G7 VU
CHN 725

The chip behind it in the picture is a mosfet.
W26NM60
CC126 V3
MAR 719

The one next to it (not in the pic)
W18NK80Z
CC099 VW
MAR Z25

Hope that helps

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