Hanns-G HG281D, LCD Monitor no power

[kreative]

@Lumberjack777 and dubm,

Yea, i read it.. Am going to do that right away.. Thanks!

[kreative]

Originally Posted by Lumberjack777

Ok kreative. I have posted this several times. Maybe it's hard to read through such a large thread. No problem. If you replace the caps circled in red and the ones circled in blue. It should start up again

Originally Posted by budm

A set of caps for the power supply will be next.

@Lumberjack777 and budm,

Monitor is back from the dead.. thanks!!

[vixensjlin]

Originally Posted by budm

Check the DC voltage right at the two legs of the 450Vdc cap, it should have about 165~170VDc on it when the monitor is in standby, then go to 380~390Vdc when you activate the power switch, if you do have 165V, then the main fuse is OK. next, we need to find out if you have standby voltage......

Alright, finally I have time to track this now.

The main fuse is fine. When I don't connect the power, the resistance is 0. When I connect 110VAC, 450Vdc cap reads about 150~155VDc. But I didn't have resource to track down further. So I look at this power supple board, it reads PSM217-404-H-R. So I went to alibaba.com and order from a retailer.

The retailer didn't sent me the exact PSM217-404-H-R I ordered, instead, they sent me another one "FSP217-4F02". As shown in the attached picture -- its 11 pin connector and 10 pin connector are inverted positioned compared to PSM217-404-H-R, and I had no idea if it is pin-to-pin compatible. In addition, FSP217-4F02 only output 4.35A on 5V, and PSM217-404-H-R should output 7A on 5V.

I still put the FSP217-4F02 in --I switched the connector cables and connected both 11 and 10 pin connectors-- and it actually light up the blue on/off indicator, which my broken PSM217-404-H-R failed to do so. However, there is no display at all -- When I press "menu" bottom of the Hanns-G281D, nothing showed. It now can sense computer boot up and change the amber light to blue light when active PC connected, but no video at all in either VGA or hdmi input.

Once it goes to blue "on" state, it shows/cycles blue, red, green testing screens, very similar to the symptom in the following link. Did I mess up something during assembly? Or the FSP217-4F02 just cannot be used? Thanks for any input and have a nice summer!

http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=18052

[SturmGhost]

Hey,

I have this flickering problem too.

For example: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d9f_sbE-d1E

Should I replace all caps or some specific caps?

[budm]

Replace the two caps on the main board at least. Replace the set of caps on the power supply board is recommended.

[SturmGhost]

Which are the two on the mainboard? Can you mark them?

[budm]

See:
http://s807.photobucket.com/user/bud...ml?sort=3&o=14

http://s807.photobucket.com/user/bud...ml?sort=3&o=16

http://s807.photobucket.com/user/bud...ml?sort=3&o=17

[dark]

Hello,
where to find service manual/schematic of this monitor(power supply unit)???.

Please help...

[AlexGodbehere]

Hey guys. I've been having the same problem as you all, so decided to attempt a repair. Got all of the capacitors on apart from C707, which was unable to be soldered as I had (like an idiot) managed to tear the pads from the board. What is the likelihood of finding a replacement power supply board for this monitor?

[AlexGodbehere]

Update:

Managed to follow the tracks on the PCB and create my own connections. The monitor takes roughly 5 minutes to turn on, but behaves itself after that. Which is a vast improvement to nothing happening at all (including power light). So to recap, I replaced C603, C605, C606 and C707 and brought the monitor back to life! Thanks guys.

[mfjvogt]

Thanks to this forum I fixed my Hanns.G HG281D.

The screen started flickering on a VGA connection a while ago. Connected the screen to VGA and DVI to HDMI to correct this problem. Using the DVI to HDMI was flickerfree, but would not wake-up from standby. With a ATI Catalyst shortcut I could switch to VGA after standby and after wake-up switch to DVI to HDMI again.
A while later problems started with the monitor getting blank. Turning the monitor off and on would remedy that. Over time this problem would occur more often until the monitor did not turn on at all.
Looked on internet for a solution and found this website, read the whole Hanns.G HG281D thread several times and decided to repair my monitor, although having never soldered before.

Bought a basic solderset and recommended capacitors (35V capacitors were not for sale) at www.conrad.nl (I live in the Netherlands).
Replaced the following capacitors on the powerboard:
-- c603 - 22µF/35V 5cx11mm - replaced with Nichicon Radiale elco VY UVY1H220MDD (Ø x l) 5 mm x 11 mm Rastermaat 2 mm 22 µF 50 V
-- c606 - 1µF/100V 5x11mm - replaced with Nichicon Radiale elco VY UVY2A010MDD(Ø x l) 5 mm x 11 mm Rastermaat 2 mm 1 µF 100 V
-- c707 - 22µF/35V 5x11mm replaced with Nichicon Radiale elco VY UVY1H220MDD (Ø x l) 5 mm x 11 mm Rastermaat 2 mm 22 µF 50 V
-- c406 - 10µF/50V 5x11mm replaced with Nichicon Radiale elco VY UVY1H100MDD (Ø x l) 5 mm x 11 mm Rastermaat 2 mm 10 µF 50 V
-- c605 - 47µF/50V 6.3x11.2mm - replaced with Panasonic Radiale condensator serie FC EEUFC1H470H (Ø x h) 6.3 mm x 11.2 mm Rastermaat 2.5 mm 47 µF 50 V
-- c108 - 10µF/35V 5x11mm - replaced with Nichicon Radiale elco VY UVY1H100MDD (Ø x l) 5 mm x 11 mm Rastermaat 2 mm 10 µF 50 V
-- c111 - 22µF/35V 5x11mm - replaced with Nichicon Radiale elco VY UVY1H220MDD (Ø x l) 5 mm x 11 mm Rastermaat 2 mm 22 µF 50 V
-- c114 - 2.2µF/50V 5x11mm - replaced with Panasonic Radiale condensator serie FC EEUFC1H2R2H (Ø x h) 5 mm x 11 mm Rastermaat 2.5 mm 2.2 µF 50 V

Fixed the monitor!

Now that this is working I will also replace capacitors 80 and 83 on the videoboard.

The attached images are taken before the repair for orientation.

[r3z0nate]

I unfortunately just started having a problem with power remaining on but the video signal dropping off for a couple seconds. At the moment it is completely random, but after reading page 5 and looking at the controller board, I found a burnt(ish) section.

I tested all of the capacitors on both boards, and although I don't have an ESR meter, I found the 1000uf 35v capacitor on the power supply board reads up to 4x the rating.

On the logic board all of the 10uf and 100uf capacitors are up in the 470uf and 580uf range. That should be significant enough to know those specific capacitors are bad, correct?

[momaka]

Originally Posted by r3z0nate

On the logic board all of the 10uf and 100uf capacitors are up in the 470uf and 580uf range. That should be significant enough to know those specific capacitors are bad, correct?

Some of them may be in parallel, which is why you might be getting higher capacitance readings.
In any case, if they are CapXon or some other less-than-good brand, I would just change them.

[SturmGhost]

What are the ratings of the big cap on the power supply?

I want to replace all caps in this monitor.

[denisi.m]

Hi all. And thank you all.

I had the same problems as most of the people here. Monitor went off after a couple of seconds, flickering etc. I replaced C80 and C83 on the mainboard. That did the job beautifully. Since it was my first time solderin, it was a mess, but it seems to have done the job.

Again, thanks to all of you, plainbill and retiredcaps in particular. It was actually fun reading all of the posts and fixing the monitor on my own.

[SturmGhost]

Finally replaced C80 and C83 with FR 100/50 and my monitor works perfectly. No noise/distortion, flickering or some other crap shit.

Thanks !

[zwarder]

Hi I have read this thread with great interest and I am currently recapping my psu I did have 5vsb steady & tried shorting to PSON & bang it took out the fuse the plug fuse & threw my main consumer unit breaker. The bridge rectifier is now dead short so I'ver ordered that as well.
I need a bit of help though this psu must run in hell on inspecting caps they were already changed but low quality ones were used, a lot of the boards solder joins are totally ruined, I have managed to repair them all apart from one I'm not sure of ,

does R713 link through +ve leg of C707 to R712 resistor side closest to Q704 transistor?

Any help on this is truly appreciated, I can upload a pic if anyone wants

[zwarder]

Originally Posted by zwarder

Hi I have read this thread with great interest and I am currently recapping my psu I did have 5vsb steady & tried shorting to PSON & bang it took out the fuse the plug fuse & threw my main consumer unit breaker. The bridge rectifier is now dead short so I'ver ordered that as well.
I need a bit of help though this psu must run in hell on inspecting caps they were already changed but low quality ones were used, a lot of the boards solder joins are totally ruined, I have managed to repair them all apart from one I'm not sure of ,

does R713 link through +ve leg of C707 to R712 resistor side closest to Q704 transistor?

Any help on this is truly appreciated, I can upload a pic if anyone wants

Update bridge rectifier was fine C1 is actually dead short 6HI05k 2L has anyone come across this before?

[zwarder]

Originally Posted by zwarder

Update bridge rectifier was fine C1 is actually dead short 6HI05k 2L has anyone come across this before?

lol wrong again I now suspect Q101 mosfet dead short on one side

[zwarder]

Originally Posted by zwarder

lol wrong again I now suspect Q101 mosfet dead short on one side

OK power diode D1 CQ736G U860 is dead short both directions out of circuit its beside q101 must be the culprit however I cannot find any info on this anywhere.
Anybody know of a suitable replacement?