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Benq G2420HD wire identification/assignment & LED conversion

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    Benq G2420HD wire identification/assignment & LED conversion

    Long story short... ccfl's failed, bought this "ca-155" led replacement but can't identify pin/wire assignment on both power supply board and logic board since neither have anything printed over the pcb, no ENA, DIM, VCC, GND, 5v, BL-ADJ or anything like that, nothing!!!

    Hello everyone and let me start with two warnings to help you understand the text wall ahead :p
    first, my english is absolutely bad, mediocre at best so i apologize in advance for making your eyes bleed, you may think "then what are you doing here and not searching the help you need in some spanish forum?" well i've tried, seriously but people tells me either to "git gud", leave the task to professionals and stop wasting everyone else's time or they cant help at all.

    Finally, im a total newbie with electronics, literally i have no clue about all this stuff, the most i've done was repairing my old Logitech surround speakers, two smartphone power adapters, LED garden lamps, xbox 360 controller (the tiny rumble motors) and replacing capacitors on two old pc motherboards, that's pretty much it.

    I know how to solder tiny wires and tiny pcb boards (the work i did on the logitech speakers, very tedious but was a success) i have 3 soldering irons, tips, desoldering braid, flux, alcohol and more stuff, also a cheap chinese digital multimeter, alligator clips yada yada... BUT knowing what's going on over this labyrinth of PCB paths with so many resistors and other unknown stuff is something entirely different... totally out of my league.

    I went already to 3 technicians and all of them told me there's no fix or its so tedious, complicated that buying a new monitor is the best course of action, also none of them knew about this "ca-155" kind of board to replace ccfl's i told them about this kind of solution but they just looked at me like "uhh what are you talking about? what's that? uhhh?"


    So back to the story with more details, CCFL's failed in my 11 years old Benq G2024HD monitor, one lamp had this carbonized/blackened shade at one end, then there was this flickering and a pink shade on half of the screen, i've read about it and it was the ccfl, technicians told me ccfl was the problem indeed and best option was to purchase a new monitor because ccfl's replacements can be found nowhere or the price was so ridiculous high that getting a new monitor was the best choice to save time and money... welp i didn't listen and here we are...

    i bought this thing called CA-155 some sort of "universal LED driver" to replace ccfl's, here's the manufacturer website:
    http://www.creatall.com/en/product/C...converter.html

    My package arrived with 2 LED strips and some wires, many people on ebay, amazon and more sell this "combo" for ccfl's replacement, i watched some youtube tutorials about the installation and it seemed to be simple, piece of cake right? nope... Neither the power supply board or the logic board have the pin/wire identification printed on the PCB, there's nothing, only the CN701 and some other weird codes for resistors, capacitors, diodes and stuff like that.

    WARNING... disgusting pics ahead... the wooden bench where i do most of my work (electronics, painting, assembly, cutting and more) is so disgusting, not only that but 11 years of getting dust, heat and the nasty habit of smoking made all the wires, pcb and stuff get a brownish ugly color in different areas, that's repulsive i know, apologies...

    First pic showing the two boards.
    https://imgur.com/8wUKHUy

    CN701 stands for the 12 pin white connector (i guess, not sure rly) and each board has just 6 cables connected to this 12pin connector.

    https://imgur.com/j39TFJT

    here's the whole album:

    https://imgur.com/a/x53LAqX

    A black, Brown, a Red (almost brownish-red wire), orange, yellow and finally the green wire, so without anything printed on the pcb there's no way i could find what they do unless i find info on the internet, well that's what i did yesterday without luck...

    The Benq G2024HD monitor service manual doesn't have any schematic page showing each wire purpose, here's the manual:

    https://www.manualslib.com/manual/93...hd.html#manual

    Page 60 starts showing the schematics, maybe i'm missing something since im a newbie but just in case maybe this could help you guys.

    Anyway i spent hours searching every google result for this monitor and couldn't find anything, all the other service manuals for different Benq monitors show schematics with the pin/wire assignment most of them are boards with 6,8 or 10 pin connectors iirc i couldn't find any other model with the 12pin connector

    Youtube didn't work either so i googled the power supply model and it was the same, nothing useful just tons of chinese websites selling the board and ebay, aliexpress, amazon results selling 2nd hand boards.

    I did find another pdf file with schematics tho, but not for my power supply, its for the 4H.0BH02.A00 with 11 pin connector and the one i have is the 4H.0NC02.A01
    https://cdn.badcaps-static.com/pdfs/...6edd84ecfd.pdf

    Seriously, i couldn't find schematics for the whole monitor or power supply and trying to find anything for the logic board was even worse, cero!! nada!!! and looking for information about wires color code makes you get even more confused because depending on the country and device (audio, cars, computers and more) the meaning changes so i wouldn't risk damaging (and wasting more time) playing with the soldering iron and randomly solder wires with some sort of "trial and error" method till LED's turned on.

    The only option i have is asking for some advice and help from you guys, and of course, learning how to properly use a Multimeter because that's the last resort, measuring each wire till i get X values and then find out the meaning of each result.

    But i'm a chicken, i saw videos where you have to plug the monitor and give it some current before measuring with the multimeter probes because doing it without current won't give ya exact values or nothing at all... right? idk... I am afraid of getting some shock or burning the whole board lol

    In those videos people plug the monitor to the current, then they start the "ON" signal by just hitting the "ON" button on the monitor control board or use some "jumper" to start it.
    So with the monitor having current they put the black probe on any screw hole or in any place of the metal chassis and then with the red probe they measure each wire, depending on the board they get 5v, 3,3v sometimes 20v or more and then 0v for some wires (direct current mode on multimeter) that's how they identify the purpose of each cable.

    OMG im clueless so im gonna finish this with some questions:

    1- To test/measure each cable from the logic and/or power supply board with my cheap chinese multimeter... Do i have to start/give electric current/power to the boards?

    2- what's the most basic and critical safety measures before doing it? i know i shouldn't drop any metal stuff over the solder joints or short capacitors touching both legs at the same time, is there anything else? like not touching at all the big 450v capacitor or any particular component due risk of shock and stuff like that? also i wouldn't use the multimeter probes to randomly check stuff i don't know having the current flowing through the whole system.

    3- Ground is any metal piece? like the metal chassis (even if its not attached to the power/logic board?) screw holes with nothing around or some big joint with nothing around?

    Anyway, as you guys already noticed, i should hand this to professionals instead "trying to fix it on my own" but once again, they cant/want to fix it, the lcd screen is fine, both the power and logic board are fine, all is cool but CCFL's made this piece of hardware useless, i could just buy a new modern LED monitor with no problems but I HATE when something that isn't totally broken goes to the trash just like that, when everything else is OK and just one component fails then buy new one? that sucks...

    I WILL get a new gaming monitor soon but my sister could use this one when fixed, she has this tiny 17" or something Hewlett packard LED monitor so thats another reason for my stubbornness .

    Finally (yes i promise this is the end) if this forum is not intended for newbies or advicing/teaching people with no experience then i would understand if gets locked, removed or anything like that, been there done that, i just had to give it a shot, sorry for the typos, spelling and the engrish have a nice day!!!
    Last edited by TacoLoco; 05-05-2019, 03:27 AM. Reason: wrong model name

    #2
    Re: Benq G2420HD wire identification/assignment & LED conversion

    UPDATE:

    I measured/tested the pins with the diode mode (the one that "beeps") having power-off & unplugged, no current whatsoever and:

    1st and 2nd (black and brown) = nothing, no sound and nothing on multimeter

    3rd and 4th (red and orange) = it gives sound/signal.

    5th and 6th (yellow and green) = it gives just one short "beep" and some numbers on the multimeter between 600-700 and 1500, i dont whats the meaning of this.

    It happens in both, the logic board and the power supply board, btw my ground was the metal chassis and any screw hole with exposed metal

    What's the meaning of having a signal on red & orange, a short beep just in yellow and green and finally, nothing at all with black and brown?

    now im gonna do the same with V-dc mode, plugged and power on and edit this message, have a nice day!!

    Comment


      #3
      Re: Benq G2420HD wire identification/assignment & LED conversion

      Uh ok i can't find the option to edit previous posts, anyway...

      UPDATE 2:

      Direct Current Voltage - 20v range, same results on both Logic and power supply board

      Plugged and power-on.

      Black = 3.35v
      Brown = 3.36v
      Red = 0.00v
      Orange = 0.00v
      Yellow = 5.00v
      Green = 5.00v

      Plugged and power-off

      Black = 0.00v
      Brown = 0.00v
      Red = 0.00v
      Orange = 0.00v
      Yellow = 5.00v
      Green = 5.00v

      Unplugged and power-off - Diode mode for continuity.

      Black = no sound/signal
      Brown = no sound/signal
      Red = it gives continuous signal
      Orange = it gives continuous signal
      Yellow = short beep then nothing.
      Green = short been then nothing.

      If Red and Orange show 0v and both give a signal on diode/continuity mode then those are GND-ground??
      Then black and brown both with 3.3v then those are the ADJ/DIMM or ENABLED?
      Finally Yellow and Green show 5v so those are the VIN ?

      welp i think i made some progress but there's so much i dont understand, time to visit youtube one more time and look for something right here in the forum.

      Comment


        #4
        Re: Benq G2420HD wire identification/assignment & LED conversion

        UPDATE 3:

        Ok i think this is pretty much all i can do without going deep into electronics....

        I checked all the capacitors on the board here's the result:

        plugged/POWER ON

        5 caps with 35v470uF = 17v
        1 cap with 25v470uF = 5v
        1 cap with 25v470uF = 17v
        1 cap with 50v47uF = 5v

        Without further advice i think brown and black wires on the powerboard are the DIM and ENA, im gonna disconnect those cables, then solder the ENA & DIM from the CA-155 Led driver to the LOGIC BOARD.
        Finally maybe the yellow and green with 5v are the VIN but 5v is too low i'd guess i should try there and see hows the leds work and if the brightness is too low or doesn't work at all well i'm gonna solder VIN to any 25v capacitor with 17v (power on) because the rest of the capacitors are 35v470uf and that's beyond the range for the CA-155 led driver (10-30v)

        Better pictures, the imgur album quality was ugly
        Attached Files
        Last edited by TacoLoco; 05-14-2019, 03:57 PM.

        Comment


          #5
          Re: Benq G2420HD wire identification/assignment & LED conversion

          the yellow fuse at the top, FR51 is your power for the led driver,

          on the solder side is ic801 ccfl driver chip - what is the part number on it?

          Comment


            #6
            Re: Benq G2420HD wire identification/assignment & LED conversion

            jw10 and jw11 are the control signals to turn the lights on and do the brightness.

            Comment


              #7
              Re: Benq G2420HD wire identification/assignment & LED conversion

              The ic801 ccfl driver chip is the OZ9933ic

              Here is the monitor manual with schematics and the data sheet for OZ9933 circuit.
              https://cdn.badcaps-static.com/pdfs/...82ddbcd421.pdf
              page 5

              So the jw11 and jw10 are the dim and ena? it makes sense since those jumper wires lead directly to brown and black both with 3.3v

              About the yellow fuse i can't find it, is the thing that looks like a yellow ceramic cap labeled as F851 "5A E" ? sorry i'm very dumb i should learn how to identify electronics.
              Attached Files

              Comment


                #8
                Re: Benq G2420HD wire identification/assignment & LED conversion

                That is what can be refered to as a "pico fuse", It is a 5 amp fuse. I believe that is not a E but Lf (littlefuse)
                Looks like JW10 is ENA, JW11 is PWM
                Last edited by R_J; 05-14-2019, 05:54 PM.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Re: Benq G2420HD wire identification/assignment & LED conversion

                  awesome i didn't know that.
                  The fuse shares the same PCB path with the positive pin of 25v220uf (17v power on) cap, then it goes to other line with all the 35v470uF caps positive pins (17v) is that what people calls "a power line/path"?

                  So if the yellow fuse is my power for the CA-155 led driver, how do i connect/solder the wire there? right into one of the fuse legs/solder joints (which one?) do i need to read values with my multimeter? if that's so please tell me which mode i need (DVC, continuity or something else) and let me know if its risky (if the board needs to be plugged and power on) doing it with caps was easy but i don't know how to handle fuses like this one.

                  Thx once again for all the help guys!

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Re: Benq G2420HD wire identification/assignment & LED conversion

                    It looks like JW5 is the 17 volt line after the fuse.
                    You could lift JW16, jw27 & FD801 also, that would remove the voltage for the ccfl circuit which you are no longer using.
                    Last edited by R_J; 05-14-2019, 06:24 PM.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Re: Benq G2420HD wire identification/assignment & LED conversion

                      See attached picture.
                      Attached Files
                      Never stop learning
                      Basic LCD TV and Monitor troubleshooting guides.
                      http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...956#post305956

                      Voltage Regulator (LDO) testing:
                      http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...999#post300999

                      Inverter testing using old CFL:
                      http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...er+testing+cfl

                      Tear down pictures : Hit the ">" Show Albums and stories" on the left side
                      http://s807.photobucket.com/user/budm/library/

                      TV Factory reset codes listing:
                      http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=24809

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Re: Benq G2420HD wire identification/assignment & LED conversion

                        BTW, after study the board further, that section I marked as linear regulator is not correct, it is Buck converter that converts 17V to 5V for running the logic board.
                        Attached Files
                        Last edited by budm; 05-16-2019, 12:30 AM.
                        Never stop learning
                        Basic LCD TV and Monitor troubleshooting guides.
                        http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...956#post305956

                        Voltage Regulator (LDO) testing:
                        http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...999#post300999

                        Inverter testing using old CFL:
                        http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...er+testing+cfl

                        Tear down pictures : Hit the ">" Show Albums and stories" on the left side
                        http://s807.photobucket.com/user/budm/library/

                        TV Factory reset codes listing:
                        http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=24809

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Re: Benq G2420HD wire identification/assignment & LED conversion


                          So we identified the ENA and PWN signals, now I just need to remove some jumper wires and solder the LED driver VIN and GND cables, seems like I’m ready to start with this project, i'll do it tonight BUT I’m going ask some questions about the procedure and stuff for everyone else and myself.

                          I uploaded a pic showing how im gonna do it, the only difference between the info i got would be connecting the VIN to the fuse (stj) or somewhere near the JW5 (R_J)


                          Originally posted by budm View Post
                          ...
                          The cold side ground in your picture (thx) belongs to some big heatsink “HS3” with the rectifiers, I am correct? Such ground point shares a path/trace in the pcb with many capacitors negative pins and it goes all the way to the top left side reaching the screw hole, so yeah this area is full with ground points, soldering the black GND wire right there should be easy.

                          The VCC in the picture comes from one of the 35v220f caps which just gets 17v when I hit the power button, the same place with many other capacitors positive pins, so this lil guy and I mean the capacitor gonna send 17v to the LED driver through the voltage input VIN red wire.

                          JW20 and JW16 are ground and voltage jumpers right? So removing both will stop the transformers and everything on the right side getting power therefore less energy consumption? If that’s correct well it’s pretty awesome I’ll do it no doubt.

                          About JW10 and JW11 I guess I don’t need those anymore, could be enough if I remove the black and brown wires from CN701 connector? If not then its ok ill remove the jumper wires.

                          Finally I can’t say anything useful about the “rectifiers (common cathode) for the 17v powersupply” im a noob but maybe that’s some good useful information for r_j or stj and anyone with more experience, the only thing I can think of is that I shouldn’t touch anything there.

                          EDIT: I saw your new picture, thx a lot, so i have to remove only JW20 and JW16 right?
                          So the buck converter helps the logic board to turn on with 5v otherwise those 17v would fry the board or something? I guess green and yellow wires (5v each) power the logic board and maybe one of those gives power to the lcd screen that’s why we got two wires each with 5v .. or maybe im talking nonsense idk. Then I see a coil in the left side with two lines, between the hot and cold zone (inductor coil?) apologies for my ignorance.

                          Originally posted by R_J View Post
                          ...
                          The fuse and the JW5 are connected (I think) to all the 35v caps on the right side (17v) so the capacitor on the left side nearby the JW5 (C807) should do the job for the VIN on the led driver, if not let me know please coz believe or not i'm learning a lot with you guys.

                          About the JW27 that one makes yellow and green wires reach the OZ9933 ccfl inverter circuit so that one would be useless ill cut it!!! And the FD801 has nothing there just the diode print/label but nothing back and front of the board.

                          Originally posted by stj View Post
                          ...
                          The fuse can deliver 17v to the led driver right? Do I need to measure any value in the fuse? any side/leg of the fuse will do the job to power the led driver?
                          I didn’t quote your last message and that was a mistake because i think the forum delivers notifications when people quotes, sorry; I’m quoting you now with the information about the inverter circuit.

                          Its the OZ9933 here's the page with the info


                          and monitor service manual
                          https://cdn.badcaps-static.com/pdfs/...82ddbcd421.pdf
                          Attached Files
                          Last edited by TacoLoco; 05-16-2019, 07:46 AM.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Re: Benq G2420HD wire identification/assignment & LED conversion

                            It's working!!!!

                            sorta i mean, havent test the lcd screen yet but the LED's are working and it has a strong brightness.

                            - I just did what you guys told me to do, VIN to capacitor C701, GND to the same capacitor (negative) and both DIM and ENA to the logic board replacing the brown and black wire, it turns on, leds are working and well i'll see if DIM works with the lcd screen interface but that's something for tomorrow.

                            - Also i removed jumper wires JW16 and JW20

                            - Capacitors 801 and 802 went from 17v to 5v and cap 803 (470uF-50v) this one didn't change, still has 5v

                            - Removed black and brown wires but the solder joints still have 5v why? i have no idea.

                            - Should i remove the transformers? i don't know how to handle those guys and i think they have tons of voltage that's why i don't mess with transformers.

                            - 5 min on and the leds are not hot at all, i can grab the LED's and couldn't feel they were getting warm or something, that's cool i guess.

                            - Took me 3 !"#!$@ hours coz the wires were so thin and tiny and i almost burned a pad, actually i think i did burned it, the one with the JW20 my irons are 35w and 40w i think thats way too much heat but the real problem was that i couldn't remove the damn wire, it was bend on each end and neither the copper braid or the iron could take all the solder, anyway i soldered the pad and the continuity still was there, i hope this isn't a big deal.

                            Then for the JW16 the one that carried voltage to + capacitors i just cut the damn wire instead of desoldering it.

                            Finally there was this buzzing and annoying sound like if something was shorting, first i thought the sound was coming out from one LED strip but with a closer inspection it was the LED driver CA-155, what happened? well i think it was the chassis, the CA-155 was too close or touching the chassis (some circuit idk) coz when i took the driver away from the chassis the buzzing disappeared.

                            Questions:

                            1- I would like to know if there's something specific i should check for or pay attention to whatever symptom like sounds, brightness, heat... IDK something that would be a sign of warning.

                            2- I didn't cut the JW 11 and JW 10 those were the brown and black wires paths to the inverter circuit, before the LEDs each one had 3.3v but now i think they went up to 5v, anyway i'll cut those later.

                            3- How to cut the led strip? there's a tiny circle every 3 led's is that the mark or something for cutting? somewhere i read that such thing indicates a resistor and cutting 2x or just one would make the entire led strip to fail or just light up random leds

                            4- When i hit the ON button, the lights turn on for 1.5 seconds or something then they turn off for one second and finally lights come back for good, i don't know if thats 100% fine, something bad or iif did something wrong
                            Attached Files
                            Last edited by TacoLoco; 05-19-2019, 06:52 AM.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Re: Benq G2420HD wire identification/assignment & LED conversion

                              Well something went wrong...

                              There's a white vertical line and i have absolutely no clue why this happened, maybe the FLEX/flat cables were dirty with finger prints or something, one goes to the monitor buttons and then we have a big one that goes to LCD screen.

                              I was extra careful with the screen, actually i didn't touch it for one month so i don't think i damaged the lcd screen board, i'd guess i have to disassemble again and clean the flat cables pins with isopropyl alcohol and see what happens.

                              BTW i didn't cut the jumper wires JW11 and JW10 those are the old black and brown wires to OZ9933 ic path (a data line i guess, they carried 3v) neither are connected to the Logic board anymore, instead i soldered the ENA and DIM from the CA-155 led driver right there...

                              The dim works, it's reversed tho
                              ENA obviously works if not the screen wouldn't turn on right?

                              Anyway i would appreciate any help about this white line, thx in advance.
                              Attached Files

                              Comment


                                #16
                                Re: Benq G2420HD wire identification/assignment & LED conversion

                                A little update about this dumb white vertical band/line...

                                1- I disconnected the "LED kit" and the white line still there.

                                2- Re-soldered/connected the old black and brown wires to the power board and logic board and the line is there.

                                3- Reversed the entire "LED conversion" process restoring the jumper wires, giving voltage back to the Inverter circuit like if i never touched the boards, i got all the old voltages on caps (17v and 5v) and 3.3v for black and brown and 5v for green and yellow wires, then i tried with and without the leds but no luck, the white line remains.
                                That was the original state for this monitor, i thought it wouldn't show the line restoring everything to its previous condition but nope, no luck.

                                4- Gently moved/touched the ribbons on T-CON (those thin orange ribbons that goes directly to the LCD screen, the flexible PCB or TFT cables i think, not sure about the proper name) also the flex/flat white cables and no success.

                                5- double checked wires and stuff i soldered, i can't see any bridge/short between joints, the multimeter shows the old values like if everything was fine and i don't think this issue is for soldering wires to one capacitor like budm shows in his picture.

                                i did all this having multiple light sources at the screen (lamps, led lanterns) that way i was able to see the damn white vertical line without powering up the LED's inside the screen.

                                Since im a newb with electronics the only option i have left is mess around and disconnect everything from the ccfl inverter until every voltage is removed from that zone, (JW20,16,11,10) and try again but why would i do this? well idk maybe there's something there causing this failure, some interference...
                                If the T-CON or the orange flexible pcb's are damaged then there's no reasonable fix for this monitor, still it's very weird, the screen was OK and very well protected, i didn't move it for a month, never touched the fragile parts, seriously how this could happen?

                                Maybe it has something to do with the lack of cold cathode lamps¡? like this white vertical line for whatever reason shows up due ccfl's absence? can't tell for sure im a newb and i have no lamps around to test that's the reason for me creating this topic in the first place, seriously i hate those lamps...

                                In its current condition i guess it's fine for troubleshooting other computers as 2nd display or emergency backup display and it's better than nothing when you don't have any extra monitor around.

                                Comment


                                  #17
                                  Re: Benq G2420HD wire identification/assignment & LED conversion

                                  That line on the screen is very likely caused by a poor tab bond between the lcd screen and the driver board, likely happened when you removed the lcd screen to replace the backlight.
                                  It won't be caused by the backlight or power supply or the conversion. and very unlikely to be the logic board or even the lvds cable. so it does'nt leave much

                                  Comment


                                    #18
                                    Re: Benq G2420HD wire identification/assignment & LED conversion

                                    Originally posted by r_j View Post
                                    that line on the screen is very likely caused by a poor tab bond between the lcd screen and the driver board, likely happened when you removed the lcd screen to replace the backlight.
                                    It won't be caused by the backlight or power supply or the conversion. And very unlikely to be the logic board or even the lvds cable. So it does'nt leave much
                                    +1
                                    Never stop learning
                                    Basic LCD TV and Monitor troubleshooting guides.
                                    http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...956#post305956

                                    Voltage Regulator (LDO) testing:
                                    http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...999#post300999

                                    Inverter testing using old CFL:
                                    http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...er+testing+cfl

                                    Tear down pictures : Hit the ">" Show Albums and stories" on the left side
                                    http://s807.photobucket.com/user/budm/library/

                                    TV Factory reset codes listing:
                                    http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=24809

                                    Comment


                                      #19
                                      Re: Benq G2420HD wire identification/assignment & LED conversion

                                      Getting this result after all this work is kinda depressing but this monitor has been working for many years almost every day so it's not that bad i mean it's a lot of time without a single malfunction.

                                      Yesterday i removed the power to the inverter zone and more jumper wires, almost like insulating the transformers zone entirely and the screen still works (with the dumb line ofc) also i pushed the tab bonds (with the power on) and even the screen a little harder to see if the line or anything else changed, some sort of "caveman" desperate attempt to fix it but nope, nothing.

                                      Still i wonder where's the specific malfunction, the damage i did while tearing apart the screen protections, to the eye there's nothing unusual but don't worry guys i know it doesn't worth my time anymore and yours especially when my knowledge is so basic and the problem itself requires special tools and lots of patience that getting a new monitor is far better idea, it's time to read and watch some 4k monitor reviews something nice beyond the 1080p and 60hz it was about time lol

                                      I would advise anyone doing this to be really really extra careful with the disassembling process, somehow i damaged the connections between the screen and the driver board causing this stupid vertical line so get proper tools and watch videos about the subject, i'd say don't BEND/force the screen protections (aluminium or plastic frames) with screwdrivers, i'd rather get my dremel and cut the damn protections than bending and forcing the clips coz i think that's how i damaged the screen.

                                      Finally i learned a lot, thx once again for the patience and help, i own two more ccfl screens, the one i'm using right now (19") and one more getting dust in the attic (17") so the LED driver i bought and the led strips could have some use in the future when cfl's in those old monitors fail, also i could sell somewhere the powerboard, maybe the logic board and all the stuff including the led driver but nahh i think i'll keep this broken guy somewhere as backup/diagnose display, if anything changes ill let you know have a nice day!!!

                                      Comment


                                        #20
                                        Re: Benq G2420HD wire identification/assignment & LED conversion

                                        if you find which tab it is, you can try putting foam behind it to push it forward or even using heat to bond it back.
                                        it will usually not be the tab at the board end, but where it goes on the glass.

                                        Comment

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