from I can see....I think SW1 is for on / off.....I need to connect it with black ribbon cable to CN7.....I see that SW1 is on the bottom off the switch panel on the casing...
So there's another shortcut for turning this on
there should also be some triangular pads labeled "G1".
Only if you've put the fuse it the right place, and only if the fuse blows again, then remove PU11 and PQ62. Then plug in the power again. If the fuse doesn't blow, then measure voltages on the pads for PU11 and PQ62 and report them here. If something isn't right, then investigate. If everything looks good, put PQ62 back on. If the fuse still doesn't blow, then PU11 may be bad.
The switch on the separate power button board might also be labeled SW1, but it has nothing to do with the SW1 on page 37. The schematics we have do not include the separate power button board. But yes, the button on that separate board is the power button and it does connect to the main board at CN7.
at cathode of PD16 ? or VAD-1
Please have a look on the image, how can I solder the fuse there ?
it's a very small pad.....I can damage the pad if I put fuse in there...
It doesn't have to go on the same pads as PD16. PD16 should not be on the board though or it would completely defeat the point of the fuse. Then, the fuse can go anywhere you want as long as it connects VA to VAD-1. For example, you could attach a wire from the fuse to PL4 or PL8. Then attach a wire from the other side of the fuse to PD17. Those are just examples though. I'm not sure how big those components are. Just look around at where VA and VAD-1 are in the schematic and find the best soldering spots.
I can unsoldered PL4 temporarily and put fuse wire on it and see what happened..
150mA fuse....
Please have a look on the photo I'd just taken....
Cheers...
I have bought TL331 as well (PU11)......it can be replaced with brand new one if you think it's faulty....but I'll see the fuse response first won't we...?
Actually, that empty pad on PL8 (the bottom one in the photo) is the perfect place to attach a wire. The other end of the wire goes to the fuse, and the other end of the fuse is attached to VAD-1 (with a wire or directly).
It kind of depends on how much the parts cost also (and how many extras you have). If you use a fuse and there's a short, you blow a fuse. If you don't use a fuse and there's a short, you blow the diode and/or the transistors. But there's also a chance it's fixed already (maybe the transistors were the whole problem) and we're being extra careful for nothing.
Yes, those pads labeled "G1" are the ones I was talking about to use instead of the power switch.
It is safe to replace PU11 since it doesn't appear to be in danger from the short. Another possibility is to just replace PU11 and forget about the fuse since there's only a small chance anything else could be wrong (with that particular circuit).
ok....I have unsoldered PL4 and replace it with fuse...and the fuse is broken straight away when I push the button on...
It's more than 150mA passing the fuse...because it's supplying the whole motherboard I reckon....I can try with higher rating of fuse if it's necessary...
But I can see some LEDs are on....led for power on the left bottom of the motherboard, LED at the switch PCB and the fan is going to start but stop because of the fuse...
I used 2.5A fuse now....it can boot....no memory....message on POST diagnostic = 28.....
I'll return 2.5A fuse to inductor PL4 now....I keep posting the progress....cheers...
Yes, if you put a fuse there in place of PL4, then it's going to need to handle the current for the entire notebook and won't protect the transistors you replaced, etc. But it sounds like nothing burned up again so that's great. Hopefully the hard part is over. Good luck.
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