Hakko 808 Nozzles

[Technoguy3]

I broke down and bought a Hakko 808 for desoldering caps from motherboards etc. I've found that for most of my projects the nozzle opening is too large and often doesn't even come in contact with the solder. The one it comes with is A1005. Which smaller nozzle should I get for use on a typical motherboard? I have no idea how large the heat pads (or whatever you call them. lol) are on these boards.

Here is a list of compatible nozzles on the Hakko US website:
http://www.hakko.com/english/product...tml#productNav

Someone also told me A1487 and A1394 will work with the Hakko 808. Which one do you think I should buy? (They're like $20 each so I don't want to be wrong) Thanks!

[ghiotom]

Re: Hakko 808 Nozzles

I have found that tip (A1005) to be the perfect size. Occasionally, I'll come across a large component or a heat shield that is too large for the opening.

[smason]

Re: Hakko 808 Nozzles

I broke down and bought a Hakko 808 for desoldering caps from motherboards etc.

Let us know how you like it.
I almost ordered one online from Fry's. $180.00 seemed good.
Put it in my cart, shipping: $70.00

I'll pick one up when I'm at Fry's in April.

[Technoguy3]

Re: Hakko 808 Nozzles

I have found that tip (A1005) to be the perfect size. Occasionally, I'll come across a large component or a heat shield that is too large for the opening.

I was working on a motherboard from a Dell Optiplex GX270 the other day, and it was giving me a fit because the pads are actually smaller than the nozzle size, so it wasn't making contact unless I came at it from an angle. What do you reckon the size difference is?

smason:

I've been having trouble using it on motherboards (I think because the pads just happen to be too small for the nozzle that it comes with; it gets up to about a bazillion degrees), but on PSU boards and stuff like that, it works like a charm. It now only takes a few seconds to desolder a cap.

[redwire]

Re: Hakko 808 Nozzles

The lead size on most caps is 0.4-0.8mm so a 1mm nozzle hole is fine for the larger ones, but maybe yours are 0.5-0.6mm (for 5-12.5mm dia caps). The nozzle (hole) has to be a bit bigger or else there's no room for suction. The A1005 is 1mm hole and 2.5mm OD so 0.75mm annular ring, seems ok. The nozzle "fatness" (annular ring, difference between OD and ID) needs to match the pad size. Is that where you are having trouble?
If a nozzle is too big, I just use it pressed to the side of the cap's lead, not in the middle. Almost all the heat transfer is from the nozzle contacting the part's lead anyhow, esp. on multilayer boards.

My technique is to put the nozzle gently on the lead, not mashing the pad, and wait a several seconds for the heat to flow through to the top-layer before hitting the vac.
If it didn't work (i.e. solder still holding the part on the top layer), I re-solder the lead and re-do the vac.
Sometimes while heating, I will gently push the nozzle to one side so you can feel it move once the lead breaks loose (then hit the suction!)

[momaka]

Re: Hakko 808 Nozzles

My technique is to put the nozzle gently on the lead, not mashing the pad, and wait a several seconds for the heat to flow through to the top-layer before hitting the vac.
If it didn't work (i.e. solder still holding the part on the top layer), I re-solder the lead and re-do the vac.
Sometimes while heating, I will gently push the nozzle to one side so you can feel it move once the lead breaks loose (then hit the suction!)

I used the Hakko 808 for desoldering caps on a few motherboards, and that's how I did it too. It is indeed the best method. That said, I do NOT like the Hakko 808 for removing caps on motherboards (especially ones with thick power and ground planes). Often, I find it takes too much work and time to clear a hole. A temperature-controlled soldering station (even a cheap one) works much better for that IMO. And if I need to desolder lots of stuff from single and double-sided PCBs, my $11 45W Radio Shack desoldering iron has me covered on that.

The Hakko 808 is a very nice tool overall, but for its cost you can get a lot of other tools that will do what it does plus lots more.

[Technoguy3]

Re: Hakko 808 Nozzles

The lead size on most caps is 0.4-0.8mm so a 1mm nozzle hole is fine for the larger ones, but maybe yours are 0.5-0.6mm (for 5-12.5mm dia caps). The nozzle (hole) has to be a bit bigger or else there's no room for suction. The A1005 is 1mm hole and 2.5mm OD so 0.75mm annular ring, seems ok. The nozzle "fatness" (annular ring, difference between OD and ID) needs to match the pad size. Is that where you are having trouble?
If a nozzle is too big, I just use it pressed to the side of the cap's lead, not in the middle. Almost all the heat transfer is from the nozzle contacting the part's lead anyhow, esp. on multilayer boards.

My technique is to put the nozzle gently on the lead, not mashing the pad, and wait a several seconds for the heat to flow through to the top-layer before hitting the vac.
If it didn't work (i.e. solder still holding the part on the top layer), I re-solder the lead and re-do the vac.
Sometimes while heating, I will gently push the nozzle to one side so you can feel it move once the lead breaks loose (then hit the suction!)

I don't know where I'm having trouble. :P I have been doing that same thing. Sometimes it works, and sometimes it doesn't. Often there will still be a bit of solder inside the hole holding the cap firmly in place, even when I resolder and suck again. The outer diameter is 2.5mm and the inner is 1.0mm, but isn't it the outer ring that makes contact? Does the inner part make contact with the actual lead of the capacitor? I thought buying a $180 tool would make this easy, but it still takes forever to get a cap off, and I have already burned some traces (and ruined a mobo in the process) beside caps I'm trying to desolder.

[redwire]

Re: Hakko 808 Nozzles

I'd suggest you experiment and try a few things to get best technique, on a scrap board. People who have no luck with these are usually just impatient, too quick. There is some art to it.
For multilayer pcbs, crank the heat to 5 and wait the recommended 5 minute warmup. You might be using too low heat.
Wire-brush the nozzle to make sure the suction path is clear.
Put the nozzle on the lead, offset like the pic shows. Heat is transferred from the nozzle to the part's lead (not the pad!). Even if the lead moves, wait a bit for the top-layer to melt good and then hit the suction and wiggle a bit.

[Technoguy3]

Re: Hakko 808 Nozzles

I'd suggest you experiment and try a few things to get best technique, on a scrap board. People who have no luck with these are usually just impatient, too quick. There is some art to it.
For multilayer pcbs, crank the heat to 5 and wait the recommended 5 minute warmup. You might be using too low heat.
Wire-brush the nozzle to make sure the suction path is clear.
Put the nozzle on the lead, offset like the pic shows. Heat is transferred from the nozzle to the part's lead (not the pad!). Even if the lead moves, wait a bit for the top-layer to melt good and then hit the suction and wiggle a bit.

I thought of that, so on my first motherboard I tried to desolder with this thing I sat there, waiting for the solder to melt for about a minute (I think the heat control was around 3). So I cranked it all the way up, and there was no change. That's how I came to the (potentially incorrect) conclusion that the nozzle may be to large and not making proper contact. I always wait the 5 minutes for it to warm up.

Somewhat unrelated question: You are also supposed to tin it with solder when not in use (so the metal doesn't oxidize, I assume?). Do you tin the whole head or just the tip?