Original Xbox Replacement Caps

[NeMesiS34]

Originally Posted by Wester547

1) 47uF 16V - Nichicon WX, 10uF 16V - Chemi-con MV
2) 47uF 16V - Nichicon WX, 10uF 16V - Nichicon WX
3) 47uF 16V - Nichicon WX, 10uF 16V - Chemi-con MV
4) 47uF 16V - Nichicon WX, 10uF 16V - Chemi-con MV

Would it be okay to replace Chemi-con with Nichicon?

Originally Posted by Wester547

I noticed a blue, ventless capacitor in the 1.0 - 1.1 image. That's either Panasonic M or Nichicon VX series, depending on whether there's a boxed M logo on the sleeve or if it says Nichicon.

Good eye!

Yea, I forgot to mention this 1.1 mobo...
I have 5x v1.0, 2x v1.1, 2x 1.2-1.3 3x 1.4-1.5 and 3x 1.6
This is the only board I have where it uses 22uf 50v instead of 22uf 25v
There's a boxed M logo on the sleeve, as shown...

Any reason why they went to 50v?
Could Nichicon VR or PW 22uf 25v be used instead?

[Wester547]

Originally Posted by NeMesiS34

Would it be okay to replace Chemi-con with Nichicon?

Either brand would work fine.

Any reason why they went to 50v?

Maybe they ran out of 22uF 25V capacitors in their stock at the time. Or they used 22uF 50V Panasonic Ms where they used 22uF 25V Nichicon VRs and Chemi-con SMEs interchangeably.

Could Nichicon VR or PW 22uf 25v be used instead?

Yes, I doubt the voltage across these capacitors is any higher than +5V actually. They use those large values because these are general purpose, 85*C capacitors.

[stj]

i have a 1.1 i need to fix soon - i may go part poly and part tantalum on it.
i can probably get a bunch of poly's from a fucked xbox360

[NeMesiS34]

Originally Posted by stj

i have a 1.1 i need to fix soon - i may go part poly and part tantalum on it. i can probably get a bunch of poly's from a fucked xbox360

Do i need to replace the 1500uf 6.3v caps with other polymers or are electrolytic caps good enough? (v1.0 & 1.6 consoles use electrolytic caps where v1.1 to 1.5 use polymers)

Originally Posted by Wester547

Yes, I doubt the voltage across these capacitors is any higher than +5V actually. They use those large values because these are general purpose, 85*C capacitors.

The 680uf cap on v1.0-1.1 are 10v and 1.2-1.6 are 16v, So I'm assuming I could use either the 10 or 16v for all versions.
Is there any advantage in increasing the voltage on other caps?

If I wanted to select better alternative caps for the mobo what would I look for?
Higher Ripple Current and Lower ESR/Leakage Current?

[stj]

firstly the original xbox never used polymers.

now as for upgrades.
you need to get an idea of what each cap is actually for and what voltage it gets hit with.

i suspect that you can use panasonic FR series for everything other than the cpu vrm caps.
those will be the very low esr ones that are rated at 6.3v

[NeMesiS34]

Originally Posted by stj

firstly the original xbox never used polymers.

I think someone may have already told me that...

Originally Posted by stj

now as for upgrades.
you need to get an idea of what each cap is actually for and what voltage it gets hit with.
I suspect that you can use panasonic FR series for everything

Someone had also mentioned the Panasonic FR series.
Could I also use Panasonic FM and/or Nichicon HD series?

Originally Posted by stj

other than the cpu vrm caps. those will be the very low esr ones that are rated at 6.3v

Again it was mentioned earlier to use Panasonic FJ series for the 1500uf 6.3v caps.
However I cannot seem to find it on the Mouser.com website...
Panasonic FR and FM series have a ESR of 18mOhms, How low must it be?
What would be a good Panasonic and/or Nichicon alternative?

[stj]

you wont find FJ, they werent sold to the public - just to motherboard makers afaik.
panasonic dont have an alternative.
rubycon MBZ or MCZ would have worked, but they are discontinued.
you can probably use 820uf or higher polymers.

FM can be used instead of FR but cost more for some reason.
i dont have a nichi HD datasheet to hand.

does the console work or is this a repair question?

[NeMesiS34]

I found Panasonic FJ 1500uf 6.3v caps on eBay and other places (Link)
There available in 8x20mm and 10x16mm both with a 3.5mm pitch.
The board has a pitch of 5mm, Hoping they should fit alright.

Thanks, yea I'm thinking I'll go either Panasonic FR or FM for the majority.
Just not sure what series to use for the smaller caps (22uf & 100uf 25v)
Thinking Panasonic FR/FM for 100uf 25v and 22uf *50v
And I'll stick with the Nichicon WX SMD caps.

I got over x16 consoles and about 4 of them have either faulty MB or PSU.
Initially I want to get x3 sets of caps do refurbish x3 v1.2-1.5 working consoles.
I have other mods I wanna do like TSOP Flash, RAM, HDMI & HDD upgrades.
(I'll also be replacing the dvd lasers and dvd belts)
My kid brother is interested in electronics, so this will be a nice project for us.

If everything goes well I might recycle some caps to see if I can repair these faulty consoles.
If I can confirm that the caps are the cause I''ll buy another lot...

[stj]

use the FM/FR for small caps - FR goes down to 2.2uf if you need 1ud for anything you need to go rubycon

i dont know why you want HDMI, a flawed interface with a cheap shit connector.
use VGA, it's more flexible on the frequency's & resolutions and can handle much higher res.
(not that the xbox can produce much)

dont bother with the dvd rebuilds btw, either rip them out and fit grills in the slot to improve airflow, or use modified LG drives.

[NeMesiS34]

Originally Posted by stj

use the FM/FR for small caps - FR goes down to 2.2uf if you need 1ud for anything you need to go rubycon

Cheers...

Originally Posted by stj

dont bother with the dvd rebuilds btw, either rip them out and fit grills in the slot to improve airflow, or use modified LG drives.

"Modified" LG drives? Modded how?
I dont think I've ever come across one before, but I've always tried avoiding v1.6 consoles where these LG drives would have been most likely found in.

[NeMesiS34]

Originally Posted by stj

i suspect that you can use panasonic FR series for everything other than the cpu vrm caps. those will be the very low esr ones that are rated at 6.3v

Coming back to this, The VRM caps on v1.0-1.1 consoles have 5x 1500uf 6.3v Nichicon HD series, so couldn't Panasonic FR series be used here as well?

The VRM caps on v1.2-1.5 consoles have 3x 3300uf 6.3v Nichicon HM series, however still have 2 or 3 1500uf 6.3v Nichicon HD's located elsewhere on the board. Again couldn't Panasonic FR series replace the HM series?

[stj]

HD vs FR
the 1500uf HD has lower ESR.
the 3300 has the same ESR.
you may get away with it.

[RJARRRPCGP]

Originally Posted by NeMesiS34

Would it be okay to replace Chemi-con with Nichicon?



Good eye!

Yea, I forgot to mention this 1.1 mobo...
I have 5x v1.0, 2x v1.1, 2x 1.2-1.3 3x 1.4-1.5 and 3x 1.6
This is the only board I have where it uses 22uf 50v instead of 22uf 25v
There's a boxed M logo on the sleeve, as shown...

Any reason why they went to 50v?
Could Nichicon VR or PW 22uf 25v be used instead?

Looks like a counterfeit cap!

[NeMesiS34]

Originally Posted by RJARRRPCGP

Looks like a counterfeit cap!

Really, that happens? Counterfiet anything these days I guess, LoL...

Originally Posted by stj

HD vs FR
the 1500uf HD has lower ESR.
the 3300 has the same ESR.
you may get away with it.

Thanks again... I'll stick to FJ to be safe

[NeMesiS34]

I'm slowly making a return to the project...
Moving onto v1.2-1.5 PSU, I'm assuming I can continue to use Panasonic FR & FM series for the majority of the caps listed below:

PSU Caps: (Delta DPSN-96BP-1)
2x 25v 100uf Taicon PW & VX (6x11mm)
1x 25v 47uf Taicon VX (5x11mm)
3x 10v 2200uf Ltec LZG (10x30mm)
1x 16v 1000uf Ltec LZG (10x20mm)

What would be a good replacement for:
3x 50v 0.22uf Taicon VX (4x7mm)

What would be a good replacement for:
1x 400v 150uf Rubycon USR (22x35mm)
Would it be alright just to leave this one alone?

And finally the fuse:
Fuse 1x 250v 3.15A ? (8.35x7.7mm)
Found this one at Mouser

[stj]

.22uf, may as well try using 63v polyester or polypropylene

leave the 400v cap unless it's actually bad.

the fuse is expensive, use a chinese 10mm one with heatshrink sleeve over it.
is the original a (T)ime delay, or a (F)ast?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/300758720589
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm//290756641785

btw, is the fuse blown? if no then why the interest.
if it is then you have more problems than the caps.

[NeMesiS34]

Thanks again, stj...
Just curious, if i were to order some caps from Mouser I might just get a couple fuses as well.
The original fuses are (T)ime delay. The Mouser link I posted was in AUD
Those ebay links would cost about the same (10pk) once converted over to AUD

[stj]

the chinese seller has those plastic fuses in time-delay version.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/301148733537

are you sure they are T type? all the psu's i'v seen use F fuses.

[NeMesiS34]

I mentioned it earlier somewhere in this thread...
There were some pics too..
I had a reply and the confirmed it was (T)ime delay im sure...

[danielu]

Hello,
I would like to say that the info in this thread is really good.
I'am also interested in the same subject but first i want to learn more because my skills and knowledge are very basic. Just what i learned in college, university. But i have my brain and will. I learn fast .

@NeMesiS34 can you make a list or summarize the caps needed with all the info about the caps? The info is somewhat all over the place.
Like the lists in the beginning of the thread.
Also i would love to hear your experiences replacing the caps.

Many thanks.