Deer diary,
I have an Allied AL-D500EXP (SL-8500BTX) PSU with a blown fuse (T8AL), blown primary BJTs (pair of 2SC3320), and a blown 12V output rectifier (SBL4060P). What happened? – Idunno. But I suspect the PSU was loaded with more than it could handle. Given its built quality, which I made a detailed post about here (with pictures), this power supply is probably closer to being capable of no more than 300-350 Watts max. The system it was powering, IIRC, was an older and more power-hungry Intel i5 CPU bundled with a Radeon R9 290/X GPU, so the PSU was likely running right at its limits.
To fully troubleshoot a PSU like this, all of the associated parts that drive the primary BJTs (Qxx and Qyy) need to be checked. To do that, I had to remove the primary heatsink. While at it, I also removed the secondary HS to get to that blown 12V rectifier.
Here’s is Bamby’s mother in mid-surgery:
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...1&d=1530222090
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...1&d=1530222090
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...1&d=1530222090
Given the small sizes of the components that drive those 2SC3320’s, I was almost sure I’d find more bad parts there. Miraculously, however, everything else appears okay so far. In other words, the doctors are saying she will probably make it alright.
Moving onto the secondary side, it turned out that the blown 12V rectifier also wasn’t fully blown – only one of its two internal diodes was showing short-circuit. The other had a normal diode reading. I haven’t checked it for leakage/proper operation yet. But if okay, I may just repurpose it as a 20 Amp diode for something else. Sorry, no good… err, working… parts go to waste with me. Even crap cap brands get a chance to “shine” again in cheap crap hardware.
Anyways, here is a picture of the components attached to the heatsinks:
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...1&d=1530222090
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...1&d=1530222090
Now, as mentioned in the built thread above, what had me puzzled the most about the PSU was this:
But I figured it out.
As I was troubleshooting the shorted 12V rectifier, I noticed that the 12V rail as well as the 12V rail windings on the main transformer read around 27 Ohms to ground (center-tap lead on transformer). Given that SMPS transformers don’t have too many turns, this stumped me a bit, and I thought maybe the 12V rail windings had gone bad too (which I’ve never seen happen before.)
However, that wasn’t the case at all. Turns out, this Allied PSU uses a design where the 12V rail has separate, isolated windings inside the transformer that have a center-tap which connects to the 5V rail rectified (DC) output. In other words, the 12V rail for this PSU is produced by superimposing two 7V rails on top of the 5V rail to get 12V. And that’s very likely why the 5V rail has two 30 Amp (STPS3045CWC) rectifiers in parallel – any current load that appears on the 12V rail also appears on the 5V rail. This means current pulled by the 12V rail passes through two sets of rectifiers: first the 5V rail and then the 12V rail’s own rectifier. Sounds weird and inefficient, right? – At least it does to me. As for the 27-Ohm reading I was getting - that turned out to be the 5V rail’s minimum load resistor, which basically made the 5V rail (and thus 12V rail’s transformer winding) appear as 27 Ohms to ground. Once I removed the secondary heatsink (and rectifiers), it was more easy to see this.
My only two guesses as to why the 12V rail is designed in such way is probably either to get better regulation between the 5V and 12V rails (as the 12V rail is loaded, so is the 5V rail) -OR- perhaps somehow this allows for less output windings in the main transformer (and thus saves copper… i.e. saves $$). I’m thinking it’s the former. But either way, again it looks like a rather inefficient design to me. The heat under the whole transformer, as well as the 5V and 12V rectifiers is a pretty good indicator that speaks for itself.
That aside, I also checked the other rails’ output rectifiers – they all tested okay. Other important parts to check when dealing with a PSU with a blown primary side: the secondary-side base-drive transformer driver transistors, Q5 and Q6. These are a pair of 2SC1815 in TO-92 case. Because there are a few various diodes connected to them in the circuit, it’s best to pull them out and check them again. I did that and found they were okay (normal diode junction readings between B-E and B-C for NPN transistor, no reading between C-E). The diodes connected to them in the circuit were also okay.
So all in all, it looks like I might just have to replace the 12V rectifier, primary BJTs, and input fuse… and okay, maybe recap the PSU as well, once I get it working. (That is, if I want to use it in a PC like I intend to.) This, however, will happen when I get my next parts order. I sure could pull some parts out of crappier PSUs just for a test, but I am pretty confident that replacing the above mentioned parts will get the PSU working again… or maybe not? With my luck, I never know. I’ll update this thread when I get the repair done, though.
I have an Allied AL-D500EXP (SL-8500BTX) PSU with a blown fuse (T8AL), blown primary BJTs (pair of 2SC3320), and a blown 12V output rectifier (SBL4060P). What happened? – Idunno. But I suspect the PSU was loaded with more than it could handle. Given its built quality, which I made a detailed post about here (with pictures), this power supply is probably closer to being capable of no more than 300-350 Watts max. The system it was powering, IIRC, was an older and more power-hungry Intel i5 CPU bundled with a Radeon R9 290/X GPU, so the PSU was likely running right at its limits.
To fully troubleshoot a PSU like this, all of the associated parts that drive the primary BJTs (Qxx and Qyy) need to be checked. To do that, I had to remove the primary heatsink. While at it, I also removed the secondary HS to get to that blown 12V rectifier.
Here’s is Bamby’s mother in mid-surgery:
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...1&d=1530222090
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...1&d=1530222090
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...1&d=1530222090
Given the small sizes of the components that drive those 2SC3320’s, I was almost sure I’d find more bad parts there. Miraculously, however, everything else appears okay so far. In other words, the doctors are saying she will probably make it alright.
Moving onto the secondary side, it turned out that the blown 12V rectifier also wasn’t fully blown – only one of its two internal diodes was showing short-circuit. The other had a normal diode reading. I haven’t checked it for leakage/proper operation yet. But if okay, I may just repurpose it as a 20 Amp diode for something else. Sorry, no good… err, working… parts go to waste with me. Even crap cap brands get a chance to “shine” again in cheap crap hardware.
Anyways, here is a picture of the components attached to the heatsinks:
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...1&d=1530222090
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...1&d=1530222090
Now, as mentioned in the built thread above, what had me puzzled the most about the PSU was this:
Originally posted by momaka
As I was troubleshooting the shorted 12V rectifier, I noticed that the 12V rail as well as the 12V rail windings on the main transformer read around 27 Ohms to ground (center-tap lead on transformer). Given that SMPS transformers don’t have too many turns, this stumped me a bit, and I thought maybe the 12V rail windings had gone bad too (which I’ve never seen happen before.)
However, that wasn’t the case at all. Turns out, this Allied PSU uses a design where the 12V rail has separate, isolated windings inside the transformer that have a center-tap which connects to the 5V rail rectified (DC) output. In other words, the 12V rail for this PSU is produced by superimposing two 7V rails on top of the 5V rail to get 12V. And that’s very likely why the 5V rail has two 30 Amp (STPS3045CWC) rectifiers in parallel – any current load that appears on the 12V rail also appears on the 5V rail. This means current pulled by the 12V rail passes through two sets of rectifiers: first the 5V rail and then the 12V rail’s own rectifier. Sounds weird and inefficient, right? – At least it does to me. As for the 27-Ohm reading I was getting - that turned out to be the 5V rail’s minimum load resistor, which basically made the 5V rail (and thus 12V rail’s transformer winding) appear as 27 Ohms to ground. Once I removed the secondary heatsink (and rectifiers), it was more easy to see this.
My only two guesses as to why the 12V rail is designed in such way is probably either to get better regulation between the 5V and 12V rails (as the 12V rail is loaded, so is the 5V rail) -OR- perhaps somehow this allows for less output windings in the main transformer (and thus saves copper… i.e. saves $$). I’m thinking it’s the former. But either way, again it looks like a rather inefficient design to me. The heat under the whole transformer, as well as the 5V and 12V rectifiers is a pretty good indicator that speaks for itself.
That aside, I also checked the other rails’ output rectifiers – they all tested okay. Other important parts to check when dealing with a PSU with a blown primary side: the secondary-side base-drive transformer driver transistors, Q5 and Q6. These are a pair of 2SC1815 in TO-92 case. Because there are a few various diodes connected to them in the circuit, it’s best to pull them out and check them again. I did that and found they were okay (normal diode junction readings between B-E and B-C for NPN transistor, no reading between C-E). The diodes connected to them in the circuit were also okay.
So all in all, it looks like I might just have to replace the 12V rectifier, primary BJTs, and input fuse… and okay, maybe recap the PSU as well, once I get it working. (That is, if I want to use it in a PC like I intend to.) This, however, will happen when I get my next parts order. I sure could pull some parts out of crappier PSUs just for a test, but I am pretty confident that replacing the above mentioned parts will get the PSU working again… or maybe not? With my luck, I never know. I’ll update this thread when I get the repair done, though.
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