need Help finding replacment Caps

[PCBONEZ]

Re: need Help finding replacment Caps

Don't go randomly sticking the probe around that board!
Parts of it are AC and/or on line voltage.

What series is that 4700uF Chemicon? [Big brown one with the shield logo.]
If it's KZG series those will fail like OST [with no bloating] and like OST higher temps [like in a Power Supply] increases the failure rate big time.
The only other Chemicon with problems is KZJ but they aren't brown.

A multimeter will only tell you a cap is shorted, partially shorted, or a dead open to DC voltage.
When you check, the ohm reading may jump around a little and then it should go very high as the battery in the meter charges the cap. [No specific Ohm value just very high as in more than 20 kOhms, more is better.] Then reverse the leads, you should see the same thing again as the cap discharges and then charges in the reverse direction.
If it doesn't charge [go to high ohms] on both directions or if it stays low the cap is shorted or partially shorted.
If it reads high in both directions *WITH NO Charge/Discharge activity when you reverse leads* it may be open.

An ESR meter will tell you how it responds to AC voltage. [Usually at 100 kHz.]
Caps -should- block DC and pass AC.
A cap can be good on DC but not on AC and vice versa which is where ESR meters come in.
- BUT, if you don't do this often it's probably not worth the $75 or so for an ESR meter.
- Most 'occasional cappers' just identify the cRap brands and replace them along with any bloated ones.

~~
A visual inspection might not be enough to spot bad joints on the transformers.
The solder can be where it's supposed to be but there is no bond to the lead because the lead didn't get up to temperature in the automatic soldering process.
- As in the lead is encased in the solder but not bonded to it.
In real bad cases the solder basically forms a tube around the lead and the lead will actually be able to move around. See pic.
-
Just heating the joint until the solder is nice and shinny usually fixes it.
Sometimes a dab of fresh solder helps.
.

[Danked]

Re: need Help finding replacment Caps

yeah the volts drop and goto 0 after the TV turns off. I will try to get some pic here soon

[PCBONEZ]

Re: need Help finding replacment Caps

Lacking good photos a list of all the caps [including manufacturer, series, and diameter] on the board would help speed things along.
We can help with IDs.

[retiredcaps]

Re: need Help finding replacment Caps

seriously though, in the case of like a tv/monitor, would maybe a ruby 1000uf 25v work in place of a 820 25v?

Probably.

[retiredcaps]

Re: need Help finding replacment Caps

Don't go randomly sticking the probe around that board!
Parts of it are AC and/or on line voltage.
.

Agreed. That is why I asked only for the low voltages on the secondary side.

[PCBONEZ]

Re: need Help finding replacment Caps

seriously though, in the case of like a tv/monitor, would maybe a ruby 1000uf 25v work in place of a 820 25v?

Can't say without knowing what the cap does.

If the cap is just a power filter cap then sure.

We here work almost entirely with filter caps but people forget caps have many other applications and sometimes even filter caps have multiple functions.

In some applications the circuit's basic operation may be frequency dependent or sensitive in which case it's hard to say what changing the uF will do.

Changing uF can also change timings or timing sequences because of different charge times.
An example sequence: 'Test point A' needs to be up to x-many volts before 'test point B' is up to y-many volts [or before such-and-such amount of time passes] in order for the next thing to happen.
- using a larger uF cap on 'test point A' might make it too slow to get to x-many volts so whatever is next doesn't happen.

There is a sequence example in PC PSUs.
[Specific numbers vary by the spec in use, I'm just ball-parking numbers.]
- On PSU start-up the output voltages have to be up to about 80% within about 50 milliseconds. If they aren't up to volts in time the IC in the PSU assumes there is a short somewhere on the board and turns the PSU back off. It's a standard protective feature required by the various PSU specs.
- If you put a bunch of power filtering caps with uF's much higher than original all over the board then you can slow the time to get to 80% long enough to kick the PSU right back off every time it tries to start. [Shorted/partially shorted caps will do the same thing but in that case there ARE shorts.]

The same kind of sequences are found in many kinds of circuits and that includes LCD PS boards. If the charge time of that 820uF affects a sequence and 820uF is on the high end of the design margin then switching to 1000uF might be just enough to keep it from starting.

In other words, when you don't know everything a cap does it's best not to change the uF.

I haven't seen this board and I don't know everything the cap does.

.

[retiredcaps]

Re: need Help finding replacment Caps

yeah the volts drop and goto 0 after the TV turns off. I will try to get some pic here soon

Check out this

http://preher-tv.blogspot.com/2010/0...-repaired.html

After reading the above, it is consistent to what you are seeing with re to no standby power after it turns off.

My guess is the little startup cap 1uF is bad? Recapping as per PCBONEZ is starting to make sense given these new findings.

[Danked]

Re: need Help finding replacment Caps

pics
http://img830.*************/img830/6248/hpim1706.jpg
http://img20.*************/img20/690/hpim1701v.jpg
http://img408.*************/img408/3047/hpim1703.jpg

OST are 1500uf 35v dia 40mm

OST 820uf 35v dia 32mm

OST 47uf 50v dia 20mm

OST 100uf 50v dia 30mm

teapo 1uf 50v dia 15mm

Capxon 330uf 35v dia 35mm

Faicon 2200uf 10v dia 35mm

Faicon 470uf 10v dia 35mm

4700uf 10v kzh dia 40mm (The big purple one)

180uf 450vdc dia 95 mm (big blue one)

[Danked]

Re: need Help finding replacment Caps

updated after reading link
CS118 replaced
CS206 replaced

teapo 1uf 50v dia 15mm (C202)

(CS124) teapo dia 15mm (unknown cant read) Can desolder in a min

[PCBONEZ]

Re: need Help finding replacment Caps

Can't look up specs for replacements if I dunno what the old ones are.
At a minimum need:
- Manufacturer
- Series
- uF
- Volts
- Diameter
- Length [sometimes]


You appear to giving the length and calling it the diameter.
A 15mm diameter 1uF lytic 50v would be shaped like and about the size of a penny or a bottle cap.

Any given uF/volts combination from a given manufacturer/series might have two or three different diameters available and also might have more than one length for each diameter.
The ESR/Ripple specs change with dimensions, not uF and volts.
Also different diameters usually have different Lead Spacings.
[see pic]
The dimensions are important.

And the various series'? - Even more important.
Can't compare specs without that either.
There are probably 20-30 different series' of OST 1500uF 35v and they all have different specs.
[I can see some series designations in the photos but not all.]

Q4 looks like it's cracked right through the middle.
Can you read the numbers on it?

.

[PCBONEZ]

Re: need Help finding replacment Caps

.
Q4 -- Looks cracked just under the screw.
.

[PCBONEZ]

Re: need Help finding replacment Caps

The Faicon would be Taicon.
You can get a magnifying glass at the dollar store. - hehehehe
I have 6 or 8 of them but I hold out for the glass ones.
Also a couple different shapes of dental mirrors helps.

[PCBONEZ]

Re: need Help finding replacment Caps

"Big Blue" is a Hitachi HU series. You can leave it alone.
Hitachi is a good brand and the AC input caps rarely fail anyway.

The Chemicon KZH is fine. Leave it.

I can't see the series on the 470uF Taicon or the Teapos.

Panny FC should be good enough for the 1uF 50v Teapo.
Those are usually just general purpose caps and are used for signal coupling.
FC would be an upgrade and FC are cheap.

The series on the 470uF matters AND it looks like it may be just starting to bloat.
[Might be a photo/light illusion.]

.

[PCBONEZ]

Re: need Help finding replacment Caps

There is no 820uF 35v in the OST RLS data sheet.
- Those numbers right? ??
- If they are then if you will please use the metric side of the ruler and give me the diameter and length in mm then I can cross reference ESR and Ripple from the other sizes of RLS.

Taicon PW specs are a dead match for Nichicon PW and Panasonic FC series'.

You can look up the other OSTs here:

And the KF here:

In the US, the best place to go for those uF and voltages is Digikey.
http://www.digikey.com/
Enter 'capacitor' in the search window and check 'In Stock', then click search.
In next window select 'Aluminum' and click on it.
Highlight the following by clicking on them...
- Under Tolerance -> "+/-20%"
- Under Mounting Type -> "Through Hole"
- Under Package / Case -> "Radial, can"
- Under Maximum Temperature hold the control key down and select all the ones that end in 105C.
- Under Manufacturer hold the control key down and select -> "Nichicon" and "Panasonic - ECG" and "United Chemi-Con"

Once you have all that selected click on "Apply Filters".
You just filtered out everything you don't want to look at anyway.

Now input the parameters [uF, volts, diameters] and search.
There are PDF data sheets available right from the site - sometimes they come right up - sometimes you have to select the 'catalog' link in the next page to get there.
Using the PDF check the ripple and ESR to see if the candidate is a good enough grade.
[Same Ripple or more ,, Same ESR or less.]

.

[Danked]

Re: need Help finding replacment Caps

sorry I was measuring the Dia by measure around the whole cap, should I just measure one side to another. so the 1uf 50v would be 5mm

and yes it is a 820uF 35v OST RLS say 0640 on it, dia about 9mm lenght about 26mm

sorry I will look thur more the wife is trying to get me to get ready.

[PCBONEZ]

Re: need Help finding replacment Caps

Diameter is across, around is the circumference.
Well that explains the strange numbers then!
I didn't know ~WHERE~ those were coming from.
It's okay, you're new to this.
Just need diameter and length.

Standard cap diameters are 3, 4, 5, 6, 6.3, 8, 10, 12.5, 13 mm.
Above that they can be anything.
3, 6 and 13 mm are a little unusual but they show up.

I'm guessing that 820uF RLS is 10 x 25 mm by the other caps in the series.
Ripple would be 2150 and ESR 0.022.

The 0640 is a common date code format.
It means year 2006 - week 40.
Not all brands use that format though.

.

[Uranium-235]

Re: need Help finding replacment Caps

well these are 3 all in parallel next to a transformer, so, probably just filters right?

[PCBONEZ]

Re: need Help finding replacment Caps

well these are 3 all in parallel next to a transformer, so, probably just filters right?

I haven't seen anything to indicate they are in parallel electrically.

Yeah, it's probably a filter.
But that doesn't mean that's -all- it does on that board.
It's a PSU.
Most PSUs have protective features and a PSU for a specific application is apt to have tighter tolerances than a PC PSU that has to handle a bazillion different applications [motherboards].

Will a 1000uF probably be okay there - yeah.
But there's a chance it could add another problem to the mix instead.

Considering 820uF is easy enough to get why chance it, even if the risk is small?

.

[Danked]

Re: need Help finding replacment Caps

for the teapo 1uf 50v dia 5mm (C202)
would this work
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...name=P10312-ND

I have no idea what Series is and how to check

[Uranium-235]

Re: need Help finding replacment Caps

I know they're in parallel cause I see the traces, they are in parallel, the meter also says they are

820uf thats 25v? not even tc has those in stock. I did manage to find some rubys from a motherboard that had dead video that were 820 25v. TC should consider keeping some higher stuff in stock for monitor repair. but i'm not sure if ruby even makes a 400v 100uf cap (separate board from the one described above)